Turning Female Taper

boostin53

boostin53

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Yesterday I started my ER40 collet chuck build. Got the register and threads turned for the spindle. Wonderful fit. Got it mounted and skim cut the OD and got the nose ready for threading.

This morning I cut my very first metric threads for the collet nut. Success, the nut goes on silky smooth with very little to no thread wobble. Yay me! Which brings me to my question...

I'm now ready to do the 8° female taper for the collets. I'm worried that I will somehow mess it all up and have to start all over. Does anybody have any advise on how to properly turn the female taper? I read a few different way from other forums. But not from here. I dont have a bunch of neat precision tools, gauges or jigs. Just a dial indicator on a magnetic base, digital and manual micrometer and calipers. I'm still building my inventory. So what does the hive say? Thank you all!
 
Congrats on getting this far without having to scrap a part and start over. What lathe are you using?
CHuck the grumpy one.
 
ch2co said:
Congrats on getting this far without having to scrap a part and start over. What lathe are you using?
CHuck the grumpy one.
Click to expand...

The lathe this collet chuck is for is a small Jet BD920N. Just a small benchtop lathe. Thankfully the compound travel is just over the length I need to do the taper.
 
The way I did it was to drill and bore to the small diameter. And then I put a collet with a dowel pin in it between centers and used a DTI to adjust the compound to the 8deg. Then bored the taper.
 
kd4gij said:
The way I did it was to drill and bore to the small diameter. And then I put a collet with a dowel pin in it between centers and used a DTI to adjust the compound to the 8deg. Then bored the taper.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of doing it that way. I'm planning on using the scale on the compound to get me a few degrees under to make my rough passes. Then doing what you said to do my final passes. Not sure if it's even worth the time to do what I said.
 
I would set it right from the get go. No need to set the compound twice.
 
I would set the compound to the correct angle first. You can then do your rough passes. You will need to get some bluing to check that you have the correct angle but by starting with the correct angle you can stop short and test it prior to full depth. That way you will be able to make adjustments as necessary.
 
Would Dykem blue layout fluid work? That's all that I have.
 
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