Types Of Lathes

WOW,
Didnt mean to start a ruckus with this question. I'm not a gun smith but do shoot them and hunt but don't ever plan on building them. I'm looking at several models and pricing and it seems like some models are the same but they label them "Gun Smith" and the price goes up several hundred dollars. So let me get this straight so we all can play well together, Gun Smith lathe is only a label and does not mean the machine is anymore accurate than the other. This is the boiled down definition but from what I have read here that is my take.
Thanks for the help guys.

Bill
 
WOW,
Didnt mean to start a ruckus with this question. I'm not a gun smith but do shoot them and hunt but don't ever plan on building them. I'm looking at several models and pricing and it seems like some models are the same but they label them "Gun Smith" and the price goes up several hundred dollars. So let me get this straight so we all can play well together, Gun Smith lathe is only a label and does not mean the machine is anymore accurate than the other. This is the boiled down definition but from what I have read here that is my take.
Thanks for the help guys.

Bill
You're right as far as accuracy goes. A gunsmith lathe from one manufacturer may be no more accurate (or even less accurate) than an unpurposed lathe from another manufacturer. The gunsmith label is more to do with features. The Grizzly G4003 won't pass a 1.5 inch barrel blank thru the headstock and has no outboard spider. Upgrade to the G4003G "gunsmith" model and you get a spider, a 1.5" plus spindle bore and ungraded headstock bearings. For an extra $150 it's a no-brainer. Another brand may offer these features without the "gunsmith" moniker but these are the features I needed to build rifles so I got the "gunsmith" model.
 
If you did a survey of professional gunsmiths, the majority would all tell you that the preferred lathe is belt driven, not a gear head.
 
Gearhead lathes tend to generate small vibrations into a harmonic wave that transfers into the headstock. This contributes to bad finishes and chatter problems.
 
Best analogy is what we tell people that are looking at airplanes.... Define your hard requirements for 90% or more of what you want to do, list the "must have's" in descending order, add a little room for growth, then look to see what fits the mission and the wallet best. You might have to give up something, to find a deal, but start at the bottom of your list. Don't be afraid of going several steps larger than you thing you want if you stumble onto a good deal. For example, if a Taig or Sherline will cover most of what you want to do, but someone says that they have an old Monach 10EE in their garage and you can have it and all the tooling for 500$, then grab the Monarch and be blessed. Granted, there is a huge difference between the 10EE and the Taig or Sherline, but after the initial shock, you will never look back. You would be stepping from the capability of a fist sized part, up to something way larger, but not outrageous.
 
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