Nice work.
Having just finished a batch of parts with black oxide for the first time and being very pleased with the results, I highly recommend it for your steel parts.
Anodized aluminum always looks great.
I had the slots cut on a wire E.D.M machine. That's not cheating is it....lol
I would have needed a slitting saw about 6" in dia. To clear the arbor and get the depth I needed. I didn't have that and i didn't want to bandsaw the slots and risk messing them up at this point.
The discs took a good bit of time. I had them lazer cut out of 1/4" steel plate. They were not very flat so they needed to be surface ground. To get something flat that is not flat takes planning. You can't just put a disc on the magnet and grind it. You need a surface plate and a variety of shim stock. With a dial indicator on the disc you need to shim the gaps under the plate all around till the needle is dead still. Then those shims need to be transferred to the magnet in the same location. I ground the discs till they cleaned up. Now when flipped over and cleaned up both sides should be flat.
You can see the shims under the disc in these pictures.
Once the discs were flat I trued them on lathe. I grabbed the o.d. in a 6 jaw chuck and bored the I.d. of the discs to a slip fit of the aluminium hub. The I made a fixture that mastered off of the I.d. and turned the o.d. of the discs to 8.875 dia. My thinking was that a standard sheet of sand paper can eeasily be applied and trimmed with a razor flush to the disc.
I also turned a 30 deg. Relief bevel on the back side of the discs for clearance when grinding inside corners.
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