Walker Chuck

[kberta]

I don't remember. I don't even remember them, but I have screws under mine.
I think I showed pics earlier.

Thanks. I will see what I can find. My drill press is out in my cold shed so it may be awhile before I try it. Besides I will have to make a support for the table so I don't break it. May try a regular drill and see if they are soft. Thanks again.

 

[woodchucker]

BTW just take a pick, and see if they are soft rubber that have hardened. I'm sought of having memories of the plugs... don't know if they are real or wishful thinking. But I seem to remember these grayish hard rubber plugs hanging out after.. and didn't re-install.

 

[jwmelvin]

there is also a small cam piece and pin that fits in the small hole that wears also. its purpose is to tilt and separate the inner section just enough to make it easier to slide back and forth the inner magnetic section.

I know this thread is about a different chuck but I’m working on a 6x18 Walker with the side handle and I’m wondering if anyone has removed the handle. I have the chuck apart but that’s the last piece. I tried a punch and hammer without any success. It’s an awkward piece to get in the hydraulic press but that seems like it will be necessary. I’d like to be able to replace the oring and clean the interface where the handle shaft enters the body.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Cadillac]

Tapered pin at least on mine

 

[jwmelvin]

Tapered pin at least on mine

Oof. So which way is it more likely to come out? Towards the slightly proud end seems the only option, which is how I was doing it.

Am I likely to have more success with a pin/punch and hammer, or with a press? Heat?

 

[Dabbler]

If you have been driving the tapered pin the wrong way, you will have to drill it out and replace it with another one. They are standard, and can be bought from better suppliers. I got mine from McMaster Carr a long time ago. I have a LeBlond lathe where the hand wheel tapered pin was over-driven, and I have to give it the same treatment.

 

[jwmelvin]

If you have been driving the tapered pin the wrong way, you will have to drill it out and replace it with another one.

I seem to regularly find myself with drilling as the only option. Getting this chuck apart required drilling four of the ten screws.

I’m not sure which way the pin is supposed to come out but drilling it is probably the most guaranteed. It’s been all of thirty minutes since my last McMaster order…

 

[jwmelvin]

Thanks [mention]Dabbler [/mention] I drilled out the pin and got the handle apart. After cleaning all the gunk off it, it’s pretty wobbly in its bore. I may sleeve it with bronze and try to do a better job with a new seal design.

Edit: here’s a picture of the shaft and external bore:

 

[Cadillac]

I’ve done the same task to two mag chucks. One I was able to clean up make a new bushing and link arm and all was good. The other was in worse shape. Shaft was worn along with bushing and link. Made all three parts. One thing I did on both chuck levers was install a oring before putting the handle on. Oring gets alittle smoosh and hopefully eliminate the chance of grit and water getting in.
What’s the shaft size? Is there enough meat to turn down to clean up then rebush it to that diameter.

 

[jwmelvin]

What’s the shaft size? Is there enough meat to turn down to clean up then rebush it to that diameter.

Roughly 3/8”. It seems necked down in the middle, perhaps from wear and corrosion. Turning it down would be okay but I’d need to sleeve the handle pivot. I kind of like the idea of making some new bits for it.

I was thinking I’d try to build in an x-profile or double-x seal.