What Did You Buy Today?

BGHansen said:
Wow, 3/32" minimum?!?! Bet you'll be just skimming with that one!

Bruce
Click to expand...

3/32” minimum bore diameter. For me (I would want a space cushion here), the smallest I would use this for would be increasing the diameter of a 1/8” hole, and then not going any deeper than 7/16” (another space cushion for the tool shank).

They offer a 1/16”; I did not buy that, as I think that is too small for what I might ever need!
 
Went to Lowes to get some spray paint and this followed me home... lowest toolbox I could find that would fit under the lathe... and not that expensive... all good there as well...

IMG_7493.jpeg

Now I need to make a base/tray with the casters on the side to keep it low.
 
I know that price does not always a bargain make and brazed boring bars are not typically worth what they are paid for, but I have a Yuasa and Narex boring head that take 1" bars and my CXA Victor lathe does as well. Whenever I feel the need to put a creative edge on a boring bar, I always feel better about grinding up cheap ones. I also like grinding a razor edge on them and using them on aluminum and plastic. I decided to give these a go for the 1":
https://www.ebay.com/itm/134042102543. I didn't feel I could get hurt too bad at $23 for a set of 7. They have many more if anyone is interested.

I bought another item from them as well so they combined shipping, making me feel even better about it. The other item was a wedge type Aloris CXA that looks virtually new for $185. For some reason, this seemed like a crazy good deal to me. I will replace my old piston Aloris with the wedgie. I am not good enough to find fault with the piston, but I don't push my stuff much.
1660242474020.png1660242571135.png1660242622368.png
1660242677868.png
 
hman said:
As far as I can tell, the 3/32" number is the minimum bore diameter ... 15/32" max depth. That might well be a useful cutting tool for smaller holes.
Click to expand...
Exactly, I figure a minimum bore of 3/32" means the bar is less than 3/32" in diameter. I'd snap it off in a heartbeat!

Bruce
 
I bought this USA made 2-3/8” diameter HSS drill on eBay for $61.98 including tax & shipping.

F11466ED-A6BC-4EF1-9CEB-0DD8B538581D.png

You guys probably know that if you watch an item on eBay, sometimes the Seller will send you an offer for a lower amount after a period of time. In this case, the Seller waited 2 weeks, & then sent me an offer for 5% off.

If this shank doesn’t have Weldon flats, I am going to have to machine those because I plan to use this in a 1-1/2” end mill holder.
 
NCjeeper said:
^^^
Boy when that thing grabs as it is breaking through is going to be interesting.
Click to expand...

I wonder what the weak link will be if the 3 HP motor can’t provide enough torque to keep the drill moving. This really makes the case for pecking, proper RPM and lubrication.

I have spun an R8 collet (actually an integral shank end mill holder) before (or perhaps the motor belt slipped); the seal between the collet & the spindle (or perhaps the seal between the motor belt & it’s pulleys) was the weak link. Here is what transpired:

After doing this many times: 1-1/4” HSS center cutting square end mill on a plunge cut going through 3/8” of 6061 aluminum & then immediately continuing through 1/4” of A36 steel.

After about a half dozen of these plunge cuts (with CF!), the end mill went through the aluminum fine but soon after it got into the steel, the end mill got hung up and the end mill did not rotate while the motor was running for the short time it took me to turn off the drum switch for the motor. I did *not* have a set screw for the keyway in the R8 collet before going in to this operation.

Writing that out leads me to believe that the motor belt slipped, but I’m not sure because it happened so fast. After the mishap, the end mill was still mated to the end mill holder. It seems to me that if the R8 collet spun then this would have necessitated re-tightening the set screws on the end mill holder.

*However*, after the event the cutter was no longer dug into the steel.

*I don’t understand what happened*, but at the time my impression was that the R8 collet spun in the spindle. Perhaps I was biased toward that impression because I knew that there is no set screw for the keyway in the collet.

I often spin the belt on my 1 HP lathe. I just turn off the motor as quickly as possible, & she always starts back up fine.
 
Last edited:
you probably chipped the teeth of the endmill on break through into the steel - speed and feed rates for the two materials are very different. Send it back to me and I'll touch up the cutting edges in exchange for a karma deposit.

Have to say though, endmills (even center cutting) kinda suck for punching holes in stuff. Save up your pennies and get yourself an annular cutter holder and a selection of annular cutters. You will NOT be disappointed, they are fricking awesome. Easy cutting and beautiful on size holes.

Edit: R8 arbor https://www.toolmex.com/catsearch/1233/r8-annular-cutter-holder

Straight shank https://www.toolmex.com/catsearch/1250/straight-shank-annular-cutter-holders

Or you could make your own straight shank adaptor, that's what I did
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top