Which Voron?

[GeneT45]

So which Voron is the most capable? The official website seems to take the "equal, but different" approach - and I can appreciate that there's some truth in that, but for general printing, which Voron would be the best? Set cost aside for the moment. (Cost *is* a consideration, but the difference in cost between the various Voron builds doesn't seem significant.)

GsT

 

[Ken226]

Assuming your asking about similar sized versions of the larger 2.4 and Trident printers, I don't think there's much, if any, capability difference.

@AlanB would have more insight regarding the Trident.

I built a 2.4 a few months ago, but have little experience with the Trident. They're nearly the same machine, but the Trident moves the bed up/down for Z moves, whereas the 2.4 moves the gantry. It's commonly accepted that the 2.4 is harder to build.


On the Trident, since the bed is a simple, solid piece with few moving parts, it stands to reason that the Trident would be a much simpler, more robust design that is easier to tune, and has less to go wrong.

The 2.4 has more cool factor though (my opinion). The inside of your case is always clear and open, with excellent part visibility. The part is always in the same place under the lighting. Watching it print is a pleasure, with all that open space.

@7milesup and @AlanB could probably add a lot to my thoughts on this. That's just, off the top of my head.

 

[7milesup]

That is a hard question to answer because "most capable" is not defined. What are you planning on printing?
Both I and @Ken226 have Voron 2.4r's. I have just completed mine, and I am working out some software bugs on it. This is not the printer's fault but rather my inexperience with G-code and such. Ken already has a few hundred hours of print time on his.
The Voron 2.4 is harder to build than the Trident but holds the possibility of more speed. The Trident has the long z-axis screws vs. the belts, with the weight of the bed staying stationary at the bottom of the printer for the 2.4. Does that make a difference? I have no idea.

Here is a great thread on TeamFDM from guys that have built both.
Here is a link to a Reddit thread with comments from folks that are weighing the pros and cons of each. They are both very capable machines.
I decided to build a 2.4 just because I don't like long z-screws and I thought the 2.4 was cool.
I was most likely not much help.

 

[7milesup]

Lol Ken. We hit "reply" at the same exact time.

 

[Ken226]

Lol Ken. We hit "reply" at the same exact time.

I just passed the 500 hour mark yesterday. I couldn't be happier with the performance of my 2.4

I've been working on this mg131 mount for a buddy who does competitions in model airplane building. Once I get the model perfected and the scale just right, it will get painted and aged/weathered then installed in his 1/4 scale RC FW190A8.

My Voron 2.4 is awesome at bridging and steep overhangs. It completely blows my Flashforge out of the water. With PrisaSlicers organic supports, I even got decent looking horizontal nuts and bolts.

The yellow base is PLA, and everything else is uncolored ABS.

The long, thin spindley barrels warp too much in ABS. I think PLA is going to be the go-to for this one.

The Voron even made passable shell casings visible through the feed chute windows.

Needless to say, I'm pretty happy with my 2.4s performance so far.

@GeneT45 if you decide to build a Voron, be ready for alot of work. but in my opinion, it's worth it.

 

[WobblyHand]

I just passed the 500 hour mark yesterday. I couldn't be happier with the performance of my 2.4

I've been working on this mg131 mount for a buddy who does competitions in model airplane building. Once I get the model perfected and the scale just right, it will get painted and aged/weathered then installed in his 1/4 scale RC FW190A8.

My Voron 2.4 is awesome at bridging and steep overhangs. It completely blows my Flashforge out of the water. With PrisaSlicers organic supports, I even got decent looking horizontal nuts and bolts.

The yellow base is PLA, and everything else is uncolored ABS.

The long, thin spindley barrels warp too much in ABS. I think PLA is going to be the go-to for this one.

The Voron even made passable shell casings visible through the feed chute windows.


View attachment 438860


Needless to say, I'm pretty happy with my 2.4s performance so far.

@GeneT45 if you decide to build a Voron, be ready for alot of work. but in my opinion, it's worth it.

What diameter nozzle did you print this with? You have very fine detail. How big is this piece? Can't quite figure that out.

 

[7milesup]

What diameter nozzle did you print this with? You have very fine detail. How big is this piece? Can't quite figure that out.

It's 1/4 scale of a full size MG setup for Focke-Wolfe 190AB, silly.

 

[WobblyHand]

It's 1/4 scale of a full size MG setup for Focke-Wolfe 190AB, silly.

Perhaps I didn't ask a proper question. How many mm or inches or feet or meters, or furlongs long is the plastic piece I am looking at in the picture? I'm trying to gauge the details relative to its size and the nozzle dimensions. I thought it was a legitimate question to ask... How else can I learn if I don't ask? Had the original picture included a ruler, I would not have needed to ask. Jeesh, not everyone is a MG expert.

 

[7milesup]

Perhaps I didn't ask a proper question. How many mm or inches or feet or meters, or furlongs long is the plastic piece I am looking at in the picture? I'm trying to gauge the details relative to its size and the nozzle dimensions. I thought it was a legitimate question to ask... How else can I learn if I don't ask? Had the original picture included a ruler, I would not have needed to ask. Jeesh, not everyone is a MG expert.

I'm sorry. Tongue in cheek did not come through in my post.
The MG131, according to my Google-Fu, is 46" long with a barrel length of 22". With those numbers, it should be about 11.5" long with a barrel length of 5.5" or so. Hope that helps.

 

[WobblyHand]

I'm sorry. Tongue in cheek did not come through in my post.
The MG131, according to my Google-Fu, is 46" long with a barrel length of 22". With those numbers, it should be about 11.5" long with a barrel length of 5.5" or so. Hope that helps.

Accepted. Was just trying to get an idea of the scale and detail level from a beginner's perspective. As in, wow, how can that be done?