- Joined
- Nov 5, 2019
- Messages
- 218
No, 115V onlyGrinderman: Is your motor a dual-voltage type? (120/240V)
Mark
No, 115V onlyGrinderman: Is your motor a dual-voltage type? (120/240V)
Mark
There was a wiring diagram on another forum that I tried. 115V to to 2/6, unplug start windings(red/black) from terminal board and extend out to drum 3/4, make up a set of wires that goes from drum 1/5 back to where start windings were plugged on terminal board.No, 115V only
It’s a MarathonActual smoke? Did the wall breaker trip?
I suspect your red and black wires don't represent the start leg but only the start winding which could explain the problems you are having
We can do some tests. Some motors are more difficult to reverse due to the thermal protector wiring and "hidden connections" behind the terminal board
Mark
ps what is the model number of the motor?
pss do you have a multimeter of some kind?
I get a steady 4.6 ohms between red black on a digital meter. Motor runs cool and reverses with red/black switch with stock power cord wiring.I assume you want the drum switch to control power on/off and direction. Would you be adverse to adding a second switch for power and use the drum for direction? That would be the easy way to go
I noticed on the wiring diagram for the motor it looks like the thermal overload is connected to the run and start windings. Is this normal? Could that be an issue? I thought the thermal was usually connected to the run windings.I get a steady 4.6 ohms between red black on a digital meter. Motor runs cool and reverses with red/black switch with stock power cord wiring.
I could do a second switch as I still have the original on/off toggle on the lathe if that would be easier