Wiring my 3 Phase Lathe to my RPC

In about 3 days, I will post detailed pictures of where the 4 wires are proposed to attach to the new machine.

I will also post what American Rotary and Precision Matthews had to say.
 
Just to throw another idea out there, I ran my (also American Rotary) RPC to a 3-phase breaker box, and added a breaker for the mill and one for the lathe. Cannot remember if the box allowed for 3 or 4 connections, but I have at least one spare. The machines did not come with cords, and are wired directly to the breakers (via conduit).
 
The lathe came. The picture below is of the electrical panel in my PM-1660TL. The lathe does not come with a cord or plug.

I called American Rotary, and they said that they installed the wrong female receptacle in the rotary phase converter. They meant to put in a 20A, and they put in a 30A. They are sending me a 20A (female) receptacle for the RPC, and I will install that.

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So on your machine R and S are used for the transformer, so these would be L1 and L2. Wild leg would be L3 and connect to the T terminal. You could leave the 30A 3 phase socket in the RPC and just wire it in. The stock motor is ~14A 3 phase. These machines do not come with power cords.
X -> R = Black Wire L1
Y -> S = Red Wire L2
Z -> T = White Wire L3 (Wild Leg) Would mark this with a black tape band.
 
Yeah, I wouldn't change the receptacle on your RPC. Assuming you have knockouts in both the lathe and RPC I'd just run conduit and pull individual conductors. Leave the outlet for something that will live on wheels.

John
 
So on your machine R and S are used for the transformer, so these would be L1 and L2. Wild leg would be L3 and connect to the T terminal. You could leave the 30A 3 phase socket in the RPC and just wire it in. The stock motor is ~14A 3 phase. These machines do not come with power cords.
X -> R = Black Wire L1
Y -> S = Red Wire L2
Z -> T = White Wire L3 (Wild Leg) Would mark this with a black tape band.

I do believe that there is enough information for me to get it wired. My new female receptacle arrives in approximately a week.

Thank you very much for this information. I am pretty sure that I could not have gotten to going without that.
 
Yeah, I wouldn't change the receptacle on your RPC. Assuming you have knockouts in both the lathe and RPC I'd just run conduit and pull individual conductors. Leave the outlet for something that will live on wheels.

John

I do have knockouts on the RPC.

The way my shop is set up, I need to be able to move the RPC because I am entirely compulsive about sweeping the floor.

There are only 5 things in my entire shop that are not on wheels; I have spent a lot of money on carts and casters so that I can sweep the floor.

I used to work in MIG shop where the guy had a lot of dust and even mud. I quit because of that. Dust and welding are a bad mix.
 
I have a 20A breaker in my RPC. This arose from the discussions on the motor specifications given to American Rotary back when I bought the AMP-10 RPC (in July).

When I discussed the aforementioned male/female mismatch issue with American Rotary (this morning), they advocated for running a 20A receptacle & plug.

I already have a 20A receptacle on the way. As it stands now, I am going to install that in my RPC. I already have a return label for the original 30A receptacle.

20A connectors ought to be good enough, right?

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Here are screenshots of the electrical component list:

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Erik, the 20A breaker supports the 20A receptacle. To get the whole 10 hp from your RPC, you'd use a 60A. T should be the wild leg, it only goes to the spindle motor. If your motor runs backwards, swap R and S. Otherwise, that's it, 3 wires and a ground.

I think @matthewsx makes a good point about running a pigtail (with strain relief) from your RPC with the right receptacle rather than swapping the one that is mounted- just a preference that will keep your RPC available for any other 3 ph. equipment that happens to show up.
 
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