2015 POTD Thread Archive

That suburban knock off looks quite genuine lol, said it before I'll say it again great job.
John are you using any cad software when you plan out some of your projects?

Thanks for the compliment again Dylan. No cad software used or dimensioned drawings. Rarely if ever make notes or draw plans unless copying an item at hand exactly. Metal chunk for body was found at a tool supplier for free. Plans were now formulated in my head based on that metal chunk diameter, watching the Suburban vids, and looking at images of the flycutter with Google. Tool holder body was what was in stock at Metal Supermarket. I wanted 1" x 1.5" but settled for .750" x 1.250". Even the angle for the carbide seat was adjusted and cut several times until it "looked right" and the cutting tip was just behind the center line.

We note U have an ISO 40 type Holder which must be for a (no-doubt) robust machine.

Good guess but it's just an ISO 30. Machine is a 4hp. 3900 lb. Clausing Kondia.
 
Arm, just fyi, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a bridgeport clone, if it is of taiwanese decent then it's usually a quality machine. An American company Southwestern Industries, maker of the PROTOTRAK line of cnc machines, uses taiwanese machines as a base for there products.
On another note I have found what was making that godawful noise in my Mills head, the key way and key for the motor sides varidisc assembly was toast, had to have the keyway opened up to fix the motor shafts then cut a custom stepkey, the moving disc might be toast tho, gonna try and turn some delrin bushings for it, but it is a lot quieter with the new key.
20150821_200618.jpg 20150821_234620.jpg 20150821_234634.jpg
 
........... Even the angle for the carbide seat was adjusted and cut several times until it "looked right" and the cutting tip was just behind the center line.

Good guess but it's just an ISO 30. Machine is a 4hp. 3900 lb. Clausing Kondia.
Just one more deviant thought JOHN
Do please hear us out.
We note U have less meat behind the Insert for the thread to maybe adequately hold the Screw. Would it make a helluva difference if we moved the Insert slightly forward of the facing side, ie. left of the Holder looking straight at it as Your pic ??? Is it crucial to have the cutting tip "behind the centre line" ???

Man, U have a solid heavy machine there. All the best with it.
aRM
 
Arm, just fyi, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a bridgeport clone, if it is of taiwanese decent then it's usually a quality machine. An American company Southwestern Industries, maker of the PROTOTRAK line of cnc machines, uses taiwanese machines as a base for there products.
On another note I have found what was making that godawful noise in my Mills head, the key way and key for the motor sides varidisc assembly was toast, had to have the keyway opened up to fix the motor shafts then cut a custom stepkey, the moving disc might be toast tho, gonna try and turn some delrin bushings for it, but it is a lot quieter with the new key.
View attachment 109183 View attachment 109184 View attachment 109185
Chevy
U are right, it's a Taiwanese clone and well made.

What we were worried about was what we read on another Forum about these big "Fly Cutters" being heavy or damaging on "Bridgeport Spindles". Now we are not trained Machinists and unfortunately know little or zilch about these excellent Machines and those remarks got us worried some, to say the least.

We have a spare R8-22 Shell Mill Holder on which we would like to mount that "Suburban Clone" and reckon we will reduce the size from John's 8" to maybe 5". Only thing is we hope we can duplicate the top face to match as best the profile for the new Holder with the Fly Tool.

And hats off to U Guys who source the machine problems on Your own and "get 'er done" with such competence.
aRM
 
Is it crucial to have the cutting tip "behind the centre line" ???

I'm not sure. I only tried to emulate how Suburban built theirs. I tend to think that a fly cutter works much like a regular cutting tool on a lathe where it must be at or below the center of the turning shaft. The fly cutter is cutting a much larger shaft and if moved forward of center, I think it might tend to grab and dig in rather than slice off metal. It certainly works well as is. There is more than enough metal behind the insert for solid support, and a quarter inch of threads. I have a few tool holders that I use on the lathe with much less support that can remove .150" per side without deformation or chatter.
 
I think the problem you run into with it being let's say, way off center, is while it's rotating through the diameter it wouldn't have the proper clearance, for the side of the insert. If the insert where way off center, you'd have to angle it so the bottom side wouldn't rub, then again maybe I'm just blowing smoke lol, my enco automatic boring facing head,the tool is forward of centerline if I remember right, that's using the supplied holders, they hold HSS so maybe you'd expected to grind the proper relief and clearance to address that issue
 
Yes, the cutting edge must be at or slightly below center, exactly the same as a lathe tool. If you raise it, you present a negative rake angle, and if you lower it, you may increase rake to a positive, but at the risk of rubbing the heel. Keep thinking along the lines of a boring bar, and you'll be ok.

It is just my opinion, but large sweep fly cutters are a little hard on BP and clones. I limit mine to about 3" sweep.
 
Thanks Cheeseking. PITA is right. Insurance will cover after $400 deductible. They are going to have to move my whole workshop to replace the laminate flooring. That alone should take two guys at least two days and then back again. That's without moving my lathe. It took 6 months to settle where it is and they aren't moving it. My metal supply card filing cabinet has two tons of metals in it alone! That's a conservative estimate!

Update to the water leak. Turns out that the water filter in the Kenmore fridge split open, causing the flood, not the dishwasher as previously thought.

just an idea, if you install a sump pump in the basement that will solve the flooding problem in the future if something else breaks....just pipe the pump outside for the waste water..
 
Yes, the cutting edge must be at or slightly below center, exactly the same as a lathe tool. If you raise it, you present a negative rake angle, and if you lower it, you may increase rake to a positive, but at the risk of rubbing the heel. Keep thinking along the lines of a boring bar, and you'll be ok.

It is just my opinion, but large sweep fly cutters are a little hard on BPand clones. I limit mine to about 3" sweep.
Thanks Guys for all the good info
Hope to get this right
aRM
 
just an idea, if you install a sump pump in the basement that will solve the flooding problem in the future if something else breaks....just pipe the pump outside for the waste water..

My basement laundry room floor has a drain in the center but the throw rug was covering it, allowing the water to build up somewhat. The majority of damage was caused by water pouring out of the heat ducts in the ceiling of the basement, from every outlet, plus the edge and end joints of the sheet metal, especially over the drywalled ceiling.
 
Back
Top