- Joined
- Jan 11, 2013
- Messages
- 1,821
-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
2016 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter sanddan
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2012
- Messages
- 4,122
Played with some magnets today.
I dismantled a bunch of hard drives for the cases (good alloy for casting) and the magnets.
and stuck a bunch of them along a length of mild steel.
The wheels were just from a hole saw cut out of thick ply. I welded a bolt to one end of the steel bar and tightened it up onto the end cap then locknutted the wheel on.
Did the same at the other end but just with a bolt.
When assembled it becomes a magnetic broom.
The end cap with the bar just pulls off and all the swarf drops into the bin.
Now, where can I get some magnets for aluminium?????????
The magnets left I sewed into some thin leather (mini skirt from the salvos shop) to attempt a way protector.
It folds up and slides under the left hand shield as the carriage moves towards the chuck.
And unfolds without a problem.
BUT, I havnt yet tried it with heaps of chips on it.
I dismantled a bunch of hard drives for the cases (good alloy for casting) and the magnets.
and stuck a bunch of them along a length of mild steel.
The wheels were just from a hole saw cut out of thick ply. I welded a bolt to one end of the steel bar and tightened it up onto the end cap then locknutted the wheel on.
Did the same at the other end but just with a bolt.
When assembled it becomes a magnetic broom.
The end cap with the bar just pulls off and all the swarf drops into the bin.
Now, where can I get some magnets for aluminium?????????
The magnets left I sewed into some thin leather (mini skirt from the salvos shop) to attempt a way protector.
It folds up and slides under the left hand shield as the carriage moves towards the chuck.
And unfolds without a problem.
BUT, I havnt yet tried it with heaps of chips on it.
T
TOOLMASTER
Forum Guest
Register Today
magnets are the future
ever drop one down a copper pipe?
ever drop one down a copper pipe?
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2013
- Messages
- 4,622
I'm just a hack compared to some of the wonderful machining that we see here. I am hoping to make a kinetic log splitter loosely based upon one that my daughter bought and some YouTube posts. 
In order to broach a keyway in the gear blank that I made I needed a extended broach bushing. .375 x .556" x 3" long. Cut in one pass with the mill setup in the horizontal mode.
Here is the gear blank with the key way broached in. Blank is now 5" x 2 1/2", for a 2" gear plus 1/2" collar. 
I intended to machine the key-ways in the arbor with a horizontal cutter but the mill was already set-up in vertical. I did a test with an end mill, 3 passes per key-way and done. Now to get the intestinal fortitude to pick up the dividing head and get it on the mill.
In order to broach a keyway in the gear blank that I made I needed a extended broach bushing. .375 x .556" x 3" long. Cut in one pass with the mill setup in the horizontal mode.
Here is the gear blank with the key way broached in. Blank is now 5" x 2 1/2", for a 2" gear plus 1/2" collar.
I intended to machine the key-ways in the arbor with a horizontal cutter but the mill was already set-up in vertical. I did a test with an end mill, 3 passes per key-way and done. Now to get the intestinal fortitude to pick up the dividing head and get it on the mill.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,609
I’ve scanned posts on the forum for ways to organize my QCTP tool holders. I settled on mounting a length of Unistrut to the back splash on the G0709 lathe. I didn’t shoot pictures of the bracket construction; they are 3” wide strips of 1/8” thick aluminum. I bought the Unistrut and nuts from Menards.
The tool holder blades are 1/8” thick aluminum, 1 5/8” wide (to fit in the dovetail of the tool holders) by 2 ¼” long. A ¼” hole was drilled 3/8” from the end, centered on the width. The holes were countersunk for flat head cap screws. Top edges were tapered by sanding to ease slipping the tool holders onto the blades. A 90 deg. bend was made ¾” from the drilled edge leaving a 1 ½” vertical blade for tool holder dovetail engagement.
If (when) I need to expand the rack, plan is to go up with a second tier. I’ll reinforce the Unistrut bracket with a couple of pieces of aluminum bar stock. Another pair of 3” wide aluminum brackets will be bolted in place for another length of Unistrut.
Great, now I have more room on the headstock for clutter!
The tool holder blades are 1/8” thick aluminum, 1 5/8” wide (to fit in the dovetail of the tool holders) by 2 ¼” long. A ¼” hole was drilled 3/8” from the end, centered on the width. The holes were countersunk for flat head cap screws. Top edges were tapered by sanding to ease slipping the tool holders onto the blades. A 90 deg. bend was made ¾” from the drilled edge leaving a 1 ½” vertical blade for tool holder dovetail engagement.
If (when) I need to expand the rack, plan is to go up with a second tier. I’ll reinforce the Unistrut bracket with a couple of pieces of aluminum bar stock. Another pair of 3” wide aluminum brackets will be bolted in place for another length of Unistrut.
Great, now I have more room on the headstock for clutter!
I have some drawings that I made. They are detailed enough to build from if you are careful, but I did find that the opening for the mouth is probably about 1/32" wider than I would like. Next one will shift the heel portion of the sole about that much forward to close it up a little more.
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2015
- Messages
- 239
I bought my machine tools to help me in restoring really old cars. I turns out they are also great for restoring not very old trash cans.
A bath trash can with a step-on lid opener stopped working. A hinge made of plastic had broken. The crazy thing about this hinge was it was a solid piece! The hinging action was dependent upon a thinning of the plastic at the hinge joint. This is a nutty, but clearly cost effective, design.
So, I made a new hinge out of brass. I used the original plastic bits (likely an acetyl plastic) to determine lengths and hinge points.
It worked like a charm!
So, a broken $20 trash can was fixed with just an hour or so of labor and maybe $3 in materials. Hell, it would have taken me an hour to go buy a new trash can. And this makes it easier to justify my tool purchases. It is, as I think it is called, a win-win situation.
Cheers,
Tom
A bath trash can with a step-on lid opener stopped working. A hinge made of plastic had broken. The crazy thing about this hinge was it was a solid piece! The hinging action was dependent upon a thinning of the plastic at the hinge joint. This is a nutty, but clearly cost effective, design.
So, I made a new hinge out of brass. I used the original plastic bits (likely an acetyl plastic) to determine lengths and hinge points.
It worked like a charm!
So, a broken $20 trash can was fixed with just an hour or so of labor and maybe $3 in materials. Hell, it would have taken me an hour to go buy a new trash can. And this makes it easier to justify my tool purchases. It is, as I think it is called, a win-win situation.
Cheers,
Tom