Joining the Takisawa club!!

when I got the lathe it ran in forward but if you tried reverse it would hum and not work. my buddy that was helping me that day is really good with electronics. He said it wasn't a big deal. Turns out a point on the reverse contractor was fried so when you would put it in reverse it was sending 220 for two of the three legs to the motor and the overload would trip. picked up a new reversing starter set up with overload and replaced both forward and reverse contractors as well as the overload with it. bought it on ebay. wired it up for testing before installing. I have a single speed motor so it's a much simplier wiring set up than if I had the 2 speed motor. Now to put it in the lathe!

crappy quality but here's me testing it:

 
Zamboni2354, your post let me solve that quill lock problem. I see that the way it works is that when you rotate the quill lock lever clockwise to vertical, it pulls in the outboard half clamp and pinches the quill. But in my lathe, there was no way to get the shaft that runs through the half clamps to rotate! No setscrew, key, etc. The only way I could see this working was if the lock handle screwed down on the shaft, but for some reason, the lock handle was too short to reach the threaded shaft. So I filled the gap with a brass slug, and adjusted the nominal separation of the half clamps to be shorter. A slight bit of trial and error got a setting that has NO friction unlocked, and a solid lock when engaged. It only takes a quarter turn of the shaft, and I kept the pin that stops the lock handle vertically.

So, I love ya, man.
 
Winegrower said:
Zamboni2354, your post let me solve that quill lock problem. I see that the way it works is that when you rotate the quill lock lever clockwise to vertical, it pulls in the outboard half clamp and pinches the quill. But in my lathe, there was no way to get the shaft that runs through the half clamps to rotate! No setscrew, key, etc. The only way I could see this working was if the lock handle screwed down on the shaft, but for some reason, the lock handle was too short to reach the threaded shaft. So I filled the gap with a brass slug, and adjusted the nominal separation of the half clamps to be shorter. A slight bit of trial and error got a setting that has NO friction unlocked, and a solid lock when engaged. It only takes a quarter turn of the shaft, and I kept the pin that stops the lock handle vertically.

So, I love ya, man.
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Glad you got it fixed!!

On mine the threads don't spin, they are pinned to the outside clamp.
 

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So what I did works, I just don’t fully understand why. :)
Standby...
 
Yep, I was completely misunderstanding how the quill lock works. I see now that the two half clamps are on a common shaft, the outside half clamp is pinned to the shaft, and the other slides over the shaft. These go under the quill. The shaft is not locked to anything, but is threaded on the outside, and a hub with the locking lever threads over that. As you rotate the hub, the shaft does not rotate, but the threaded hub pulls the shaft toward the hub, moving the two half clamps closer together and locking the quill in place. Zamboni, mine works fine with the pin in place...a quarter turn is enough to go from no friction to completely locked...kind of impressive. You have to spin the hub onto the shaft with an initial position, then slide the locking assembly into the tailstock, positioning the hub over the pin. Then insert the quill. If the quill won't go in, you have to remove the half clamps and unscrew the hub a bit, and try again. If it won't lock in a quarter turn, repeat and screw the hub another turn onto the shaft.

Probably doesn't make much sense, but the design is very elegant now that I understand it, should be simple to keep it working in the future.

Thanks, y'all.
 
Not much of an update. Finally putting stuff back on the lathe. Been working on cleaning the mill i bought at the same time. Almost done with that so hopefully I'll have more time to get the one done so i can use it!
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Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
 
rbahr said:
I sometimes use Permatex 85224 for gaskets - oil / heat / gas does not phase it...

WRT oil passages - there is a locating pin on one side and the hole I marked which is where the oil goes. It will lubricate the front and rear ways. I verified this by putting an air line up against the 'in' and could feel air in the 'out'

Ray

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Hey Ray,

In addition to the two holes in your pic, does yours also blow air out to holes on the top of the carriage to lube the cross slide?

Im kind of stuck. Mine is clear for the two holes in your pic and one of the two holes on the other side. I can't figure out how to clear the other one that is not clear. I've tried air, both directions and tried a small wire but it only goes in a little way(1.5 inches) then hits a turn or something. The side that is clear goes in about the same distance so im leaning toward a sharp turn.

Any ideas?

Jeff
 
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