- Joined
- Jan 28, 2022
- Messages
- 853
I would consider removing the flange from both sides of the tub. It would make it easier to span the gap.
I would consider removing the flange from both sides of the tub. It would make it easier to span the gap.
What gear, 390/411. 10 point anyway.I took off the inside flange for now, I'll see how that goes, if not it will be both. Tack welding is not fitting well, so I'm going to use Cleco fasteners next. Don't think I'll get to the 9s with 28" tires, and that would need a 10 point cage, high 130s possibly
Nice. The 3.5 is nice for cruising.3.5:1 for the street my Richmond is a 3.27 first gear, and for the track the GF5R is 2.98 for a 10.5 starting line ratio. My final is 1:1 no OD the 4.10 that I do have would make the cruising RPM a little high.
To me back in the days started in the 50's and in the 50's the 30's and 40's were the Street Rods.Back in the day to them is the 80s. They don't know what it was to have had and driven an LS6 Chevy, ( still have a 70 LS6 in the basement) Hemi powered Road Runner, Stage 111 Buick, big block Ford and many many others "back in the day". I don't let that bother me at all, I still enjoy it. Thanks, Charlie
Yep, I was just trying to feel a little younger. ( born in 46 ). Thanks for the reply.To me back in the days started in the 50's and in the 50's the 30's and 40's were the Street Rods.
Split the inner tub and weld in a strip to move the flange to where it meets the outer tub. I widen well housings that way all the time. Once metal worked and finished, it pretty much looks like the factory did it.
My 32 is registered in the Ford Barn 1932 3 window coupe registry.I browse there occasionally...
Since I acquired my '29 Model A, I spend time at fordbarn.com and vintagefordforum.com... they are more in line with my interests regarding my car.
-Bear
I like your solution. It will also add strength to the deck lid hinge support when it's down to the tub.Split the inner tub and weld in a strip to move the flange to where it meets the outer tub. I widen well housings that way all the time. Once metal worked and finished, it pretty much looks like the factory did it.
Keep the flange, it adds strength to the well.