Wanting to power a lead screw

[mrbreezeet1]

3/13 I paid 180 .00 plus shipping, VFD and motor,

Now it is like $255.00 No, 262.00!!
Teco Westinghouse Model #: JNEV-101-H1 with 3/4 hp motor.
Really jumped up. in price.
http://dealerselectric.com/item.asp?cID=2&scID=132&PID=24083

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Put an Ad on Craigslist for a free treadmill last night, got a call today.
Was able to take it down enough to get in the car,
I will do some searching, but anyone know how to wire this board?
It is a model KK6039T.
Looks like this one on e bay.
I should have been a little more mindful when I took it apart, but the lady was in a hurry.

It even had a pot with it, and a On off switch I can re purpose.
There is a group of 3, S1 S2 S3, I am betting is for the pot.
Then there is L1 and L2 together? Line one and line 2?
Then there is a A1 and a A 2 and they are spread apart.
The motor looks nice, almost looks like a 56 frame motor, and the fan (2 actually) is mounted on the shaft. I am thinking the fans can stay on there.
or will they just pull dust and sawdust into my motor?
The shaft is double, and is a nice shaft, 5/8" with key way.
I did not measure the mounting holes yet, but I bet it will line up. If not, it will be a easy matter to adapt.
board looks like this.
I see there are trim pots on the board.
One says "Torque"
crank that one all the way up;right?..................LOL

Let me know if that picture is too big, I will edit it.
I will have to take a picture of the motor later.
I can't find one like it on line.
like I said, its cool looking, looks like a baby 56 frame.

 

[caveBob]

Funny, just this last September I ordered this one for the mill (still apart in a million pieces awaiting paint, reassembly... argh!!!):

1 HP, 1800 RPM, Brook Motor with 1 HP, 115 Volts, Teco VFD
Item#: 1 HP 1800 RPM 115 Volts Input Package
http://dealerselectric.com/item.asp?cID=2&scID=50&PID=24070

Sub Total: $199.99
Shipping & Handling: $80.79
---------------------------
TOTAL: $280.78

...and this thread in addition to my already acquired sense of buyer's remorse about it (fear of low - low end torque as opposed to the DC motor setup on the lathe). Really has/had me wishing I went 1hp DC, Baldor or the like instead...

I've had zero problems with the 3/4hp version on the lathe for tapping or turning large diameter at low rpms... I may well sell the VFD through Craigslist and eat the additional shipping I paid for the original purchase. I dunno yet...

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Funny, just this last September I ordered this one for the mill (still apart in a million pieces awaiting paint, reassembly... argh!!!):

1 HP, 1800 RPM, Brook Motor with 1 HP, 115 Volts, Teco VFD
Item#: 1 HP 1800 RPM 115 Volts Input Package
http://dealerselectric.com/item.asp?cID=2&scID=50&PID=24070

Sub Total: $199.99
Shipping & Handling: $80.79
---------------------------
TOTAL: $280.78

...and this thread in addition to my already acquired sense of buyer's remorse about it (fear of low - low end torque as opposed to the DC motor setup on the lathe). Really has/had me wishing I went 1hp DC, Baldor or the like instead...

I've had zero problems with the 3/4hp version on the lathe for tapping or turning large diameter at low rpms... I may well sell the VFD through Craigslist and eat the additional shipping I paid for the original purchase. I dunno yet...

well there shipping must have went out of sight too.
Cause IIRC, My shipping was about $30.00.
Cause I even thought it was a little high.
Funny thing, I think the 1 HP is still, $199.00
but the 3/4 HP is what I say? 256.00 or so. Crazy.
I just found a the teco VFD for $139.00, and the shipping was only $6.30 something USPS.
I should tell Pete 222 he said they charged him something like $20.00 to ship his VFD.
I don't notice low speed loss of torque , but mine is just on a wood lathe, and I use the reeves drive as well as The VFD Pot.
but i think they say it is vectorless drive, or some such, and that is the plus side of that feature, is no loss of torque at low speeds.

Sensorless vector l think it's called.
anyways, supposed to retain the torque at low(er) speeds.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Put an Ad on Craigslist for a free treadmill last night, got a call today.
Was able to take it down enough to get in the car,
I will do some searching, but anyone know how to wire this board?
It is a model KK6039T.
Looks like this one on e bay.
I should have been a little more mindful when I took it apart, but the lady was in a hurry.

It even had a pot with it, and a On off switch I can re purpose.
There is a group of 3, S1 S2 S3, I am betting is for the pot.
Then there is L1 and L2 together? Line one and line 2?
Then there is a A1 and a A 2 and they are spread apart.
The motor looks nice, almost looks like a 56 frame motor, and the fan (2 actually) is mounted on the shaft. I am thinking the fans can stay on there.
or will they just pull dust and sawdust into my motor?
The shaft is double, and is a nice shaft, 5/8" with key way.
I did not measure the mounting holes yet, but I bet it will line up. If not, it will be a easy matter to adapt.
board looks like this.
I see there are trim pots on the board.
One says "Torque"
crank that one all the way up;right?..................LOL

Let me know if that picture is too big, I will edit it.
I will have to take a picture of the motor later.
I can't find one like it on line.
like I said, its cool looking, looks like a baby 56 frame.

Did a search for A1 A2 L1 L2 S1 S2 S3
None of the other numbers did me any good, but, A1 A2 L1 L2 S1 S2 S3
found me this
https://www.minarikdrives.com/descriptions/document/250-0354.pdf
Minaric controllers, that is what this is.
Not the very same board, but close enough to get me straight.
L1 hot L2 neutral, A1 A2 motor, and S1 S2 S3 are the pot. S2 is the center wiper.
https://www.minarikdrives.com/descriptions/document/250-0354.pdf
What do I need for a fuse, about 7.5 amp?

 

[mrbreezeet1]

She said (the woman l got the tread mill off) that if you got too far toward the end of the belt/walkway
it would stop and start and the kids got fed up with it.
I hooked it up, and it ran, even got the pot in the right direction, But the motor was stopping and starting, and the brushes were sparking like crazy.
Well I pulled this cover off, really it is a piece of paper, and was able to get to the brushes,
had to take this little clip/spring deal out, I was puzzled, as there did look to be enough length left to the brushes.
So I just sanded the brushes down a little, there seemed to be like a little rust or corrosion on the sides of the brushes too, so maybe they were not sliding or being pushed down properly.
Anyways I cleaned everything up, and it seems to be fine now.
If I run the motor real slow, (a crawl) it hums, there is a choke there too I might put in and try it.
Funny that KK6039T board is going for more money on e bay than the MC-60.
Funny to note too, where the MC-60 called for a 5K pot, the PDF I attached above calls for a 10K.
But like l said, the treadmill came with a POT, and I don't know what the value is.
I guess it's an OK little board?
I did not get any search results from this site regarding that board.

Kind of would not mind getting a fixer upper tread mill and fixing it, this one would have been an easy
fix. maybe I can make some room here, but my shop area is crowded enough.
But to get one and fix it to actually use.
At this point this one is not going back together.
But the good thing is I might be able to use the frame to make a stand for my Craftsman bandsaw.
I guess it would not pay to put a tread mill motor on the little bandsaw, you usually run those things
pretty slow.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Ran across this picture and comment, says not to ground the heat sink, only ground to the PC board.
Is this something I need to be concerned with on My model KK6039T board, or any MC- 60 board for that matter. I don't know what they mean by ground only to the PC board.

 

[John Hasler]

Ran across this picture and comment, says not to ground the heat sink, only ground to the PC board.
Is this something I need to be concerned with on My model KK6039T board, or any MC- 60 board for that matter. I don't know what they mean by ground only to the PC board.

They mean that when you hook up the AC connect the green ground wire only to the terminal that they have marked "ground". Do not connect it to the heat sink and do not electrically connect the heat sink to ground or to any metal. Heatsinks on circuit boards are often internally connected to parts of the circuitry and consequently must be electrically isolated.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

They mean that when you hook up the AC connect the green ground wire only to the terminal that they have marked "ground". Do not connect it to the heat sink and do not electrically connect the heat sink to ground or to any metal. Heatsinks on circuit boards are often internally connected to parts of the circuitry and consequently must be electrically isolated.

Well, l will have to look, I don't think the KK6039T board has a terminal marked Ground.
Oh, I didn't know about not screwing the board to metal that is grounded.
I might have screwed it right down to the drill press.
So If there is not a Ground terminal, then just do not ground the board?
I don't have a MC-60 to look at, I only have the KK6039T board.
I was pretty sure the heat sink on the KK6039T board was screwed right to the frame of the treadmill, and that the power cord ground was also screwed to the frame of the treadmill, but like I said, I was not real mindful, as the lady was in a hurry.

Edit,
And here is a better picture of a MC-60 board?
Don't see a ground terminal on it either?

 

[John Hasler]

Well, l will have to look, I don't think the KK6039T board has a terminal marked Ground.

Then you needn't worry about it.

I didn't know about not screwing the board to metal that is grounded. I might have screwed it right down to the drill press.

If it works you're ok.

So If there is not a Ground terminal, then just do not ground the board?

Right.

I was pretty sure the heat sink on the KK6039T board was screwed right to the frame of the treadmill, and that the power cord ground was also screwed to the frame of the treadmill...

Then the heat sink for that board must not be hot. It's a design tradeoff. Some engineers will do it one way, some the other.