What Did You Buy Today?

Aaron_W said:
I'd be interested to see how the blade changes are done on this saw. The 4x6" has an annoying blade change which takes me about 10 minutes, several screws to undo, and a few parts that have to be removed or at least moved out of the way. The larger HF/Jet/Grizzly 7x12 is a little better, but still kind of slow. The Kalamazoo on the other hand is very quick and easy, I can change a blade in about 2 minutes. I suspect part of the difference is safety related. The Kalamazoo is a pre-1970 model so the blade and moving parts are more exposed. It could be done, but you would have to be a special kind of idiot to get a body part wrapped up in the moving bits.
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Remove six screws and the cover... loosen tension and replace. Seems pretty easy. I will time it when it gets here as the first thing I will do is to replace the blade that it comes with.

Belt Change - WEN.jpg

And based on your comment and a from a few other forum members, I went ahead and also ordered two more USA made bi-metal blades... one 14-18 and one 20-24... these are SuperCut brand as I could not find them from Starrett...
 
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wachuko said:
When I was restoring/repairing the vise, someone mentioned that I should not use it as an anvil and to get a piece of train track for that... So I did!

It will need some work as one of the sides looks well worn... Machine the top and top sides flat... And then I need to learn how to harden the top (already searching and watching a few videos on that)...

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I think the trains already took care of hardening the top, many tons of train, multiple times a day x 20 years is why people recommend old train tracks for simple anvils rather than just any old hunk of steel.

wachuko said:
Remove six screws and the cover... loosen tension and replace. Seems pretty easy. I will time it when it gets here as the first thing I will do is to replace the blade that it comes with.

View attachment 384882

And based on your comment, I went ahead and also ordered two more USA made bi-metal blades... one 14-18 and one 20-24... these are SuperCut brand as I could not find them from Starrett...
Click to expand...

Lennox is another popular USA brand.

The only 24TPI I could find for my 4x6 was from a company called Imachinist, Chinese made and fairly inexpensive but I have cut a lot of steel tubing with it and it has done a good job so far. I was able to get some Lennox blades for my Kalamazoo and some Starrett blades for the hacksaws.
 
Received these today... a recommendation from @woodchucker

IMG_3222.jpeg

Also got a 1/2-20 bottom tap to make the Wilton vise handles. To make something like these:


Vise handles.jpeg
Yes, I can get them from eBay, but what is the fun in that!? :)
 
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wachuko said:
Received these today... a recommendation from @woodchucker

View attachment 384897

Also got a 1/2-20 bottom tap to make the Wilton vise handles. To make something like these:


View attachment 384898
Yes, I can get them from eBay, but what is the fun in that!? :)
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They are also good for sharpening router bits (WW) you run the file on the flat.
They are good for round over bits (machinist type) again you only file the flat.
Carbide inserts can be touched up.

I use the coarser of the 3 for my WW band saw blades, I round the back so that I can scroll a little easier.

Don't know if you know this, but if you buy multiple spiral point (gun taps) , when you dull one, you can turn it into a bottoming tap by grinding the tip down. most taps dull toward the tip because they do the most work. removing the tip and further gives you a bottoming tap.. So it really pays to save them and grind them.
 
woodchucker said:
Don't know if you know this, but if you buy multiple spiral point (gun taps) , when you dull one, you can turn it into a bottoming tap by grinding the tip down. most taps dull toward the tip because they do the most work. removing the tip and further gives you a bottoming tap.. So it really pays to save them and grind them.
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I come from the mindset of throwing most of the stuff away when it is broken or dull... That is, until I joined this forum. Now I look at something and see it as raw material for building something else :D:D

I am learning so much. Really enjoying the trip...
 
After a two month wait, my 1-1/16 - 16 taps came in on the slow boat from England. No worries, I'm in no hurry. I plan to grind one down to a bottoming profile for cleaning up the barrel threads on Remington 700 receivers. I don't want my threads oversized if I can avoid it, just good and uniform for even torque and easy assembly/disassembly following remage nut installation.
IMAG1208.jpg
 
wachuko said:
Remove six screws and the cover... loosen tension and replace. Seems pretty easy. I will time it when it gets here as the first thing I will do is to replace the blade that it comes with.

View attachment 384882

And based on your comment and a from a few other forum members, I went ahead and also ordered two more USA made bi-metal blades... one 14-18 and one 20-24... these are SuperCut brand as I could not find them from Starrett...
Click to expand...
I know you want to replace that blade, but make a few cuts with it. get to know the saw, then change it.
It's a cheap blade no doubt, but it will serve you well for a few get acquainted cuts.
if you do something stupid, you don't lose a good blade. If the saw does something stupid.. same thing.
 
I have figured out it's a sine plate, and it seems more complex than I thought, but there are no manufacturing marks to see where it came from. All of the deck holes are drilled, and tapped, there are set screws on the hinges that are positive lock, not friction stop. One detachable rail has B&S stamped on it, and another MS is on the inside deck. The only other marks are on ground in pads with owners name in it. Under the hinge area there are screw/bolt threads visible that I have not figured out yet too. Here are some pictures, and the ad, any ideas?
www.ebay.com

Vintage Tools MACHINIST Angle Plate SINE Block • Machinist Setup Blocks ☆USA | eBay

Excellent working condition and very clean! Very heavy solid HSS piece.
www.ebay.com


 
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