1236 Questions

Matt didn't have an ES12 DRO display in stock but it uses the same scales and cables as the ES8 so everything will be installed except for the display screen. I can live without it for a few weeks since I'll be learning/playing during that time. Besides I could always move the one from the mill over to the lathe in a pinch if I have an urgent need for it.
 
Couple questions so I can be ready when I get my 1236...

How many v-belts are used on this lathe and what size/length link belt(s) would I need to buy? What brand link belts are best?

Does the chip tray have a drain? Even if it does, has anyone ever modified their chip tray to add a better drain and plumbing?

Thanks
 
I have a different machine, but have been using the Gates Tri-Power notched belts, anything is an improvement over the stock belts. Definitely smoother running with less vibration, and I do not have bits of rubber flying all over the place. Sizing can vary by belt/brand. Linked belts work better than stock, but may be more expensive for two belts. I have seen others just use a singly belt on their 1236 machines and they have worked fine. The PM1340 also uses a single belt.
http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/BX-Tri-Power-Belts-c1095.htm
http://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html
 
Thanks for the info. It's always difficult to figure out what works best but there's no question the stock belts have to go.

Sounds like the 1236 comes with two belts but can work with one larger belt so they must be the same width. Not sure the number of belts matters to me, unless using one will further reduce vibration. If not, then I would prefer to stick with two belts. Cost isn't a factor considering their advantage. I just don't know what width/lengths to buy.

I typically buy Gates belts for all my vehicles so I may do the same with their link belts. But I avoid HF for lots of reasons even though they are only 10 minutes away.

Thanks
 
Usually less vibration with one belt vs. multiple, unless they are matched. Just going off of problems I have read with the G4003G and vibration. Also changing pulley groves for a different speed range is easier, although I do not see any easy way to do it on the PM1236 as one usually needs to release the tension on the belts to switch pulley groves. Nice thing about a VFD is you can squeeze a bit more speed range. I use a a 90 Hz top end, so I get 1.5 x 800 RPM, which puts me up to 1200RPM in my low speed range.
 
I found out about the benefits of a VFD only recently but it's something I've been seriously considering. Think I'll search later tonight or tomorrow and see what's involved. It would be nice if I can find a thread about adding one to the PM1236. Thanks for the info.
 
PM me for additional info, I occasionally do VFD builds for others, but also help others with the information. I just sent a whole bunch of information to another forum individual who is also wants to convert his PM1236. Usually Matt sells the Hitachi WJ200 VFD and the Leeson/Marathon Metric 3 phase motor with the lathe. The difference going to 3 phase and a VFD is not subtle. Attached is an older circuit diagram. The build is specific to the machine, because you are using the power supply in the VFD (limited to 100mA at 24VDC for the WJ200, you must use an LED lamp as a power indicator). I have switched all my VFD builds to using an external power supply. I do not recommend the cheap VFD's sold on eBay from China, a bit like Pandora's box.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm-1236-vfd-conversion.11649/
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=96363
VFD Wiring Schematic Example with 2 speed braking.jpg
 
There have been a number of posts (me included) in this thread about homemade bases for the PM1236 but I took a slightly different route. One of the times I was at QMT/PM, Matt and I discussed the various bases and I mentioned how the base I made for the PM932 had a slight twist from welding, although it only needed one 0.010" shim to fix. At that point, Matt made a suggestion I didn't think of, which is what I went with since it didn't involve any welding. One attachment shows a picture of my 1236 using four separate 2x2 sections of steel tubing. No welding... no chance of twist from heat. He also felt it could help when adjusting the bed of the lathe by not having them tied together. The other is just for reference, showing drawings of the five possible base patterns I was looking at.
PM1236 Base Options.jpg PM1236 Individual Extensions.jpg
 
I have a problem--- your shop is to clean I do like the base though


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Serious question though what is the size of the aluminum that you used for your mounts on the bottom it looks like 3 inch but is it 5 inch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top