1236 Questions

This is the process to align your headstock to the lathe bed "Rollie's Dad's Method"

Well this is embarrassing. Thanks brav65 but you could have just said something like "Hey dumb a**, if you would have read the entire process, you would have found out it's for aligning the 'lathe' and not the tailstock." Sorry about that. :wink:
 
That R8 arbor is typically used with a face mill or shell mill.
 
Thanks Jerry. You're correct about both pieces. The R8 arbor has the slot so it's for the milling machine, which helped me figure out what it's used for... shell mills and face mills if I'm correct. The adapter threw me for a loop but now it makes complete sense. If I remove the chuck, it fits the inside of the spindle. But then I noticed if the jaws of the chuck are open, it seems to fit the center of the chuck. So does that mean I can use it in either location?

Thanks Coolidge... that confirms what I suspected. I typed my message a while ago, then the phone rang before I clicked send... and I can't do two things at once, ha.
 
Lathe alignment is one of those things that gets tossed around and there are lots of opinions as to the best way to accomplish it.

So I will toss my opinion into the mix.
You can buy expensive test bars, but they are a waste of money imo. The result will only be as good as the test bar, and good ones are freakishly expensive. For simple alignment, they are expensive toys. I can see their use in a large shop where someone periodically checks the machines, or when a machine needs to be certified. Likewise, they are invaluable to a rebuilder.

For aligning the headstock, I prefer to make test cuts on a piece of stock. I use a 3" aluminum tube about 10" long in the 4jaw chuck. It is important that you use a sharp tool, and that you are using stick that will not sag - so aluminum tube is good for this.
In my (mostly worthless) opinion, this method is far superior to the Rollie Dad Method. Rollie Dad works fairly well on a mill, but it does not take into account the sag of the stock on the lathe, and it assumes the material is not bent in two planes.
Here is Abom doing this method on a big piece of steel on his Monarch

For aligning the tail stock, I prefer the "2 ring method."
For some reason, mrpete makes a tool from steel and aluminum, which is a waste of time. Just use a piece of free machining stock 1" or bigger and machine a valley between the rings. In fact you do not really need the rings, they just let you do the test with less machining.
If you go to Suburban Tools and buy yourself a very very expensive test bar that is guaranteed to some ridiculous degree, it will have been ground on a machine that is aligned by grinding and checking for taper.
 
Well this is embarrassing. Thanks brav65 but you could have just said something like "Hey dumb a**, if you would have read the entire process, you would have found out it's for aligning the 'lathe' and not the tailstock." Sorry about that. :wink:


No problem I just figured you were not clear on what I was talking about so I posted it for you.
 
Two things I like about this forum:

1. Generally & overall very civil.... Some forums are repulsive to anyone who makes a typo or asks a question that may not be worded quite accurately---BRAVO group.

2. Free flow of info & ideas. I have learned a lot from the members here, & have even been able to contribute now & then.

Kudos to all.

Jerry in Delaware
 
I agree Muskt. I made a contribution yesterday for the exact same reasons. I wouldn't dare post the same questions on another forum I joined early on. Someone warned me about them so I never posted, but you'll get thrashed for simple questions. And don't even mention you have a Chinese machine. Sometimes I go there and read posts just for the entertainment :wink:
 
Thanks for the videos Joshua. Now understand the processes and the differences between them so it was a big help. And tubalcain was correct about his tailstock alignment video... "lengthy and laborious" pretty much summed it up, especially when I realized there was a Part 2.

Your suggestions makes sense. Even as I watched Part 2, once he started cutting the rings, I was wondering why he went through all that trouble when he could just make the same cuts that guy did in the Monarch video. Some people just don't want to let go of the good old South Bend way, I guess.

A very good day of learning. Thanks to everyone for the replies.
 
for aligning a tailstock, simply lining up a center in the spindle and a center in the tail stock should be good enough - use a razor blade or similar piece of flat metal between them if you want an easier visual cue.

If you want more precision, center drill a piece of stock, chuck it up and hold the other end with your center, then do a couple of light passes so that it is cut from one end to the other. Then mike both ends. If the TS end is smaller, the TS is towards you. If the chuck end is smaller, the TS is away from you. Same idea as the 2 collar test.

If you want to get really fancy, turn a spud in your chuck that is exactly the diameter of your tailstock quill. Run your tailstock up to it, lock it down and then use a DTI or dial indicator to measure and difference between the 2 surfaces. You then need to move the quill/ tailstock half that distance (I think that's right). This is also really good for dealing with a high or low tailstock.
 
More questions...

When would I use a 3-jaw chuck instead of the 4-jaw chuck? Is there any work one would do where the 3-jaw has an advantage, or is it now just a paper weight?

My lathe came with the DRO option but I don't have the display yet because I upgraded to the ES12 at the last minute, and it's on order. On my mill, the display has to be turned on/off separately as it stays on even when I push the mill Power Off button. I'm assuming the same thing will happen with the lathe? Unfortunately, I've left the DRO on the mill turned on several times. I plan to install a master power switch on both machines which would also take care of that problem, but is it safe for the DRO display to switch on/off that way? Concerned about that initial spike of current.
 
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