2015 POTD Thread Archive

During the last week or so, I built myself a 3' long and about 2 1/4' wide welding table. I used 1/2" x 8" flat bar for the the top, drilled 4 x 9/16" holes in each and left a 2" gap between each. Both the holes and gaps are to clamp workpieces onto the table and when two or more workpieces are clamped to the table, I know they're all lying equally flat. Three of the feet are welded onto 3/4" bolts and can be screwed in or out to level the table on uneven floors.
I used it yesterday for the first time and it works really well.

Table.JPG
 
Yesterday, I made a new header locking pin for my combines' feeder house. A steel bolt broke off inside the original and I tried in vain to remove it - until I broke an easy-out off inside the bolt. The shaft is about 20" long and the thicker part is 1" DIA. After wrecking two drill bits, I just chucked it onto the scrap heap and made a new one. It seems that my recently acquired lathe and mill are going to pay for themselves in less than one year! I get quotes on the OEM parts of everything I make and the money I save is adding up rather quick.

Shaft.JPG
 
chevydyl said:
Thanks for the comments, 2% lanth is really the only tungsten there's room for in my box, up until two weeks ago I used others, but I ordered this stuff for a special job on aluminum, 3/32 running 210 amps, it held up quite well, following the advice from body at weldingtipsandtricks, although it would split after two parts, 8 1" welds, it was easier to start and provided the pinpoint arc I need to complete that job, so I didn't mind having to resharpen every other part. I'm rambling lol
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I have been using ceriated tungsten exclusively. What are the advantages and disadvantages you see with lathanated? Gotta love welding SS. Nice work!
R
 
2% lanth according to jodys tests held up the point longer on higher amps, and it does according to my own work, blasting 3/32 with 210 amps @100hz after about 16-24inches it needed sharpening which is good results.
 
savarin said:
I'm filing out a hole in the end of a bar to fit a bit to make a long boring bar and got totally fed up stabbing myself every time the needle file slipped out the woosy wooden handle so I made a new handle just for a bit of practice. Its just a scrap of hot rolled gummy steel but it worked. The screw is too large but I already had that from an earlier mistake so it got used here. Quick and simple.

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For those with them or as an alternative................. I've used the tap vice for a small BA tap to hold round needle files in the past , using the " T" bar to get things tight and talking it out gives a nice sized handle to work with . Other times I've drilled out 1/2 to 3/4 round plastic rod to just over the file size , put a thread in , then used Araldite to set the file securely in it .
 
Another stupid lathe micrometer depth stop. The last picture shows it after I put it in a furnace, let it get cherry red, and let it oxidize. This is just an attempt at rust protection. I noticed that on my bandsaw stand that I am working on that the only part that is not rusted already (I haven't painted it yet) is the part of the 1/2" bar I heated to bend.

The only thing that really bothers me about this stop is that the mic head is reading backwards

IMG_3803.JPG IMG_3804.JPG IMG_3805.JPG IMG_3806.JPG IMG_3857.JPG
 
mzayd3 said:
Another stupid lathe micrometer depth stop. The last picture shows it after I put it in a furnace, let it get cherry red, and let it oxidize. This is just an attempt at rust protection. I noticed that on my bandsaw stand that I am working on that the only part that is not rusted already (I haven't painted it yet) is the part of the 1/2" bar I heated to bend.

The only thing that really bothers me about this stop is that the mic head is reading backwards
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That's a nice meaty looking stop .
One thing that's puzzled me ever since I joined the site is that people are putting the micrometer in the stop instead of putting it on/in a simple detachable bolted up block fitted to the aprons end .........that way the readings would be the right way round
 
Lol you need a left handed micrometer, I'm left handed and I'm sure I couldn't use one even if there was such a thing
 
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