2018 POTD Thread Archive

firestopper said:
God No! The three ( locomotive style) pointing to the rear is plenty @153db. Pointing them to the rear keeps the road grime out and helps clear those pesky cyclists that insist on riding four abreast on a two lane road with double yellow center lines despite the generous bike lane they use free of charge. :oops:
Click to expand...

not to defend cyclists from riding abreast on 2 lane roads, but those "free*" cycle lanes at the side of the road are often full of a variety of road detritus including nails, screws and broken glass. The number of punctures I get per 1000 miles has plummeted since I started avoiding them wherever possible.

Don't forget that you're surrounded by 2 or 3 tons of steel and they're all soft'n'squishy - getting hit by angry drivers hurts, whomever is in the "right".
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I get it, our community is bicycle friendly and those bike lanes are swept often and in better shape than many of our roads. I'm as courteous as the next guy but again, some of these "bicycle teams" don't respect the rules of the road. At times, I'm required to pass them well into opposing traffic lane. The road home is a scenic drive with many curves (no passing) so I remind them with a curtesy HONK heheheh.
For the record, I have no bone to pick with most bicyclist.:)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I need to shorten two pallet rack beams and I'm going to attach doublers, inside each beam and across the joints, by plug welding through 1/4" holes.

I'm not a proficient welder so, among many other things, today I made a practice coupon with 85 holes from a piece cut out of some surplus beam. I hope that I only use 10 or 20 holes to get ready for the beam job but, I'll mark the coupon with the voltage and wire feed for future reference and practice. The coupon is covered with paint stripper tonight.

Pallet Rack Beam Splice, Plug Weld Practice Coupon.jpg
 
Last edited:
Didn't make it in one day, probably around 30 hours time. Put in a set of shelves in my shop 8' x 6' tall x 2' deep about 15 years ago. They were organized at the time . . . Boxes of screws, nails, bolts, cans of stain, air nailers, etc., etc, etc. have been shoved on the shelves over the years. I invested in a few Rubbermaid tubs to throw in like hardware like electrical, cabinet and plumbing stuff. So need an electrical switch, pull out the tub and dig through it to get what's needed.

Plan is to replace the storage rack with a pair of 4' tall x 4' wide x 2' deep drawer units. Made the cabinet out of 3/4" plywood, drawers out of 1/2" ply. Had our 22-year old son in the shop to help with the cabinet making. Gave me a chance to pass along some tips/tricks I've learned over the years like how to cut a dado in the dead center of the top/bottom so it's perfectly centered so drawers are interchangeable side to side. I use a 1/2" dado blade and cut the dado close to center, then flip the board and make a second pass running the opposite side against the fence. Then measure the width of the dado relative to the width of the divider board and move the fence away from the blade a little less than half the difference. Keep making passes with opposite sides of the top/bottom against the fence with little taps on the fence until the divider just slides in (sand a little taper on the sides of the divider at the top and bottom).

Anyway, made good use of the dovetail router fixture fixed above. Drawers are 3", 4", 3 6", 8" and 10". They're mounted on full-extension glides rated at 100 lbs., so doubled them up on the 8" and 10" drawers just in case. The glides are pretty cheap nowadays. Got 30 sets of 22" full extension glides off eBay for $135 including shipping. I remember these being something like $15 each back in the day. Brushed on 3 coat of polyurethane for a finish, no stain. I set the drawers back in the cabinet enough to put doors on, but will probably leave them as is. The spacing is 3/16" between drawers which is hopefully a little too small for mice to squeeze into!

Next step is emptying the rack and getting it out of the way for the first of the two cabinets. I'll start filling drawers and will make the second one based on what's left to store. Would hate to make a couple of banks of 6" drawers and find out I need 7" deep ones.

Thanks for looking!

Bruce


20180715_125807.jpg
20180715_125857.jpg
20180715_125913.jpg
20180715_130023.jpg
20180715_133626.jpg
 
Last edited:
Today i had to clean and paint the smaller garage, which means everything gets removed outside and i pressure wash the walls and floor, in addition my central heating furnace developed a leak at the end of this winter, so i'll need to change it. And wanted to use this opportunity to get the old one out which means putting it on wheels because of my ceiling height i cant use a forklift, so after looking around decided to make 4 spacers, hubs like this on my lathe and use a bolt thru to bolt them on the furnace having a beast of a lathe in the next room made this job easy quick, too bad i couldn't use any power equipment to push the 300KG+ furnace uphill, neverless got it moved and managed to pressure wash and apply one coat of paint in the whole garage, one more coat and i can start puting evryting back tomorow.
DSC_0279.JPGDSC_0280.JPG
 
Have the landscaping done. Funny how projects take on a mind of their own and grow. What started out as digging for the footings, turned into widening the drive, making a turn around spot and digging a pond.
IMG_4093.jpg

IMG_4094.jpg

IMG_4097.jpg

Wish I had before pictures. The edge of the drive was about where the tractor is. The built up part came out of the pond or was hauled in.

Greg
 
Looks like you've got nice rock for that sort of thing -- almost like slate. Or is that the material you brought in?

-frank
 
No shortage of rock around here Frank. Johnny sorted it out as we were excavating. Some of it is shale and some granite, quite a varied geology here at the edge of the Canadian shield.

Greg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top