833TV Received

davidpbest

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2015
Messages
442
I'm anxious for you to plug it in and see how it works. Congratulations.
 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
Crates disassembled and stand in what I think is it’s place.

The stand is lighter than I thought. The shelf is half depth with a screwed on vented side panel. I believe it’s where one would mount a VFD.

 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
Oh, and it's crazy heavy. I can't move it on the pallet.
 

7milesup

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2016
Messages
542
I just moved mine from my old shop to my new shop and my rather robust engine hoist (not harbor fright) could barely lift it. I was quite concerned that my strap would not hold, but it did.
I am currently looking into converting mine to CNC, but I have a lot to learn.
 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
I'm probably going to need the Kubota bucket. The Y axis DRO scales are right at the holes for the lifting eyes and they aren't long enough to clear the scales. I may just have to wrap the straps around the head as described in the manual. I don't want to get that bucket near the wall of the pole barn as I am as likely to stick the bucket through the side as I am to get it perfect.

I'd love to know what it would take to convert this to CNC when you get around to it. That's way down the road if ever but it would be good to know what it takes and tuck that info away somewhere.

I'm currently in email exchanges with Greg at Priest Tools to see what can be done about a power drawbar. He's not seen one of these yet.
 

7milesup

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2016
Messages
542
I would use the strap around the head. The lifting eyes in the side never made sense to me because the entire weight of the machine is above the lifting point, making the CG very high up. Not a good idea IMHO.
You must have a decent sized Kubota. I have a newer BX2380 and it would not even budge this thing.
 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
It's an L4200 which is a 45 hp tractor. It lifted these pallets without issue. With the 1340GT, though, there wasn't enough power to lift the pallet even at full throttle due to the length of the pallet. There was way too much hanging out in front of the forks.
 

Kyo

Registered
Registered
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Messages
3
Nice looking mill, I have been considering either a pm-833tv or the new pm-728vt for my maker shed. To replace the pm25 and lms-3990 I got rid of last year. Would love a 949ts but weight and lack of a concrete floor prevents that option.

I look forward to see what folks say about this mill now that we are starting to see them out in the wild. I have seen a few of them converted to cnc as well. Here is one example I ran across earlier today.
 

ahazi

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2019
Messages
47
The stand is lighter than I thought. The shelf is half depth with a screwed on vented side panel. I believe it’s where one would mount a VFD.
It seems that only the Mainland China machines i.e PM-932M, PM-940 come with heavy cast iron stand. I decided to build/weld my own around a drawer cabinet. It needs to be a full cage as the weight is too much to just put it on top of the drawer cabinet as I did with my old drill/mill (see picture.)

Rong Fu RF-25 on Harbor Freight Drawers Stand c.jpg


My PM-933T is on it's way, left Chicago today so it will arrive in few days.

Brian, can you take some measurements for me so I can start with the stand/drawer cage design?
1. Tray height from the floor? I found 28" somewhere but I am not sure
2. Table height from base/tray? If the above number is correct it should be 11.5" but again not sure

I want to make sure that my final height will be reasonable to work around. The current height of my table is 49" from the floor which is on the high side but it works very well for me.

Ariel
 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
Ariel, I'll get those measurements today when I'm down in the garage.

Kyo, good find on the video. The video mentioned heavymetalcnc.com as a source for the parts to convert the 833T to CNC. Low and behold they have a kit for under $1k.
 

7milesup

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2016
Messages
542
Base of the base of the mail to the top of the table is 10 and 1/4 inches. I Built my own stand for my mill out of 2"x3" tubing and I have my stand at 36 and 1/2 inch above the floor. I am 6ft tall and find that comfortable.

If you open up the video in YouTube, you will find a link to Dr. D-Flo's website. There he has a complete materials list including the Linux operating system that he used. I believe I am going to head in that direction of converting mine to CNC. During the video he does mention that he uses stepper Motors but wants to convert to Servo Motors down the line. I'm not sure why one would spend the money on stepper Motors and then convert to servos Motors later.
 

Attachments

7milesup

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2016
Messages
542
Keep in mind too that in addition to that $1000 that you will also have to buy driver boards, power supply, touch screen monitor, pendant, cables, enclosure and a computer to run all of it ( he uses an Intel NUC).
Now add in the stepper or service motors.
 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
Here's the height from the base of the stand to the chip tray. This is without the standoff bolts to level the stand so you can add and inch or two to this height.

millstandheight.jpg
 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
Got it in place tonight. It was fairly straight forward and not nearly as difficult as getting the 1340GT onto the stands.

We used the tractor and forks to lift it onto the stand and used 1/2" aluminum rod to roll it into place. While it was on the ground (and help) I loosened the bolts for the head to ensure it would move. I didn't want to deal with that on the stand by myself when tramming.

I powered it up and ran the spindle in reverse and forward. What I didn't find was a power switch so I'll have to rig up something.

movemill1.jpg
movemill2.jpg
movemill3.jpg
movemill5.jpg
 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
I installed two switches and a 2 gang 120 outlet yesterday. Flipping those switches powers the accessories and mill.

Cleaning the cosmoline off the mill took no time at all. Certainly not the days it took on the 1340.

The oiler works very well. I gave it a few pumps just to get things moving and I had oil coming down the sides of the column a while later. I didn't see oil on the Y or X so I did those by hand just to be sure there was oil.

I adjusted the spindle R8 taper screw so I could insert a collet. Of course, one fell on the table and left a good mark. So, it's no longer new. LOL

I got the DRO connected. I mounted the display on a pole (it's in a pole barn) next to the mill. I wasn't sure where it would be best mounted to the machine. The little screws that hold the DRO cables to the serial port seem long. When fully tightened the cables move. I may shorten those to get a solid connection.

The Shars 4" vise fits this mill perfectly. With the larger opening jaws I can fit nearly anything I'll machine. I bought two and wider jaws for both from Monster Jaws so I think I'm good there.

I'm starting the X power feed install. The next step is to drill/tap the mounting bolts which I'll do today. Then, I'll tram the X and start the Z power install. Then, I'll get to tramming the nod (Y?).

How tight should the mill base bolts be to the stand? How tight should the bolts on the column to base be? I have a ~10" wrench to tighten them with and that can give a lot of torque. They're tight now but not 500 lbs. gorilla tight. Just curious if others are using a torque value.

The drawbar seems a bit long compared to my LMS mill. There's a full 1" of engagement in a collet before it's tight. That's gonna get old changing tools with that much engagement. What is a good, normal engagement for a drawbar?
 

wrmiller

Chief Tinkerer
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
3,706
The drawbar on my 935 has about that much engagement, but I figure the more the better. My having to spend a few seconds spinning the bar by hand a few extra times is worth in IMO. Besides, I'm retired and it's not like I'm in a hurry or anything. ;)

That's a good looking little mill. Have fun with that thing. :)
 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
I got the X power feed installed. That adds more length to the table that I thought it would so my buddy's coming over tonight to help me move the mill 5" right so I don't hit my bench off the left.

I made an indicator holder on a 8" offset sweep to tram the X. It was off by less than .001. Just loosening one of the three bolts moved the indicator so I did that a couple times and it was right on. I'm sure as soon as I take a heavy cut I'll need to check it all again.

I used the mill to drill and tap holes in steel for indicator holder. I drilled once around 60 RPM. I couldn't really say how much torque it had at that low RPM. I'm betting with a large bit I'd see it.

Next is the Z power feed and tramming the Y. Then, I might be able to get all stuff moved back in place in the garage.

I'll get pictures posted when it's all set done.
 

davidpbest

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2015
Messages
442
Anxious to hear how it performs below 100 RPM.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kyo

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
Got the Z power feed installed. With the DRO scales installed I put the feed stops on the left side of the column. The instructions mention the oiler lines being in the way but that's not the case on my mill. I didn't put any standoffs in place either. I'm going to put a little standoff on the power wire hold down to give it more clearance from the stop bracket and sensor when the head is near table.

Drilling the gear shaft and sleeve for the Z axis feed was interesting. I made sure I had the head low enough to still use the quill before I took the handle off. Of course, I misjudged the height of the vise and had to reinstall the old gear shaft and get the handle on enough so that I could raise it to drill. I also had everything measured and centered and started drilling the first hole for the pin only to find there was no way to hold the shaft tight. As you can see in the picture I had to fashion up some way to hold it with what I could find in the pile of stuff that I moved to get this mill in place. It worked perfectly albeit quite unconventional.

The Z motor is right up against the back right column bolt. Tramming the nod will be interesting since I'll probably have to pull the motor off to get to that bolt.

Also is a pic of the power switches and outlets I installed. I used a 20 amp double-pole switch for both. The last outlet in one circuit is right by the machine so I ran to a box and installed two outlets that are switched for all the mill accessories. Two switches to turn it all on and off.

I've been talking with Greg at Priest Tools about his power drawbar. The spacing is tight between the spindle and motor mount but I think I can make it work. I'll have to modify his mounting plates or make my own. I'll probably start another thread once I get started on that.

I have the cover off the front of the mill. Greg's power drawbar has to be over the spindle and the case over the drawbar that the mill comes with is much to tall. I've got a BP style quill stop and Mitutoyo quill DRO to install. Once those are installed I'm going to have a custom faceplate made that will be built around those two items.
 

Attachments

Praeger

Registered
Registered
Joined
Nov 10, 2018
Messages
12
Hey Brian - Congrats on the new mill. I have the 833T and picked up a Mitutoyo quill DRO that I haven't yet installed. Looking forward to seeing how you install it with a custom face plate. Been spending most of my time on the 1340 GT chambering barrels. Thinking about a chamber flush system. Peck and clean on the chamber reamer is getting old - but good results.

The 833 does have a long drawbar engagement. I bought a cordless electric ratchet and keep it on my toolbox next to the mill - dedicated to the drawbar. Not quite a power drawbar, but it does speed things up.

You mentioned tramming the nod of of the head. How would you do that on the 833? I thought the only way was shimming the column?
 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
Yes, shimming the column is the only way.

The power drawbar I ordered from Greg has a longer drawbar in it so I'm going to hold off on the length for now. I think I'll have to modify his baseplate to get it to fit the 833. We'll see, though.

I made a lot of chips today. That thing is crazy messy! I went to the aluminum scrap yard and picked up a block 9" x 9" square of 5/8". My plan is to replace the cast iron ring around the spindle that they used for the stop. The ring was put on before the spindle so it has to be cut off. I'm waiting to do that until I have my aluminum one made.

I tried boring the ~3.5" hole with a boring tool in the mill. What a PITA. To do that I had to figure out how to clamp it to the table. The clamps (they're pretty slick) I bought were too big for the T-slot so I had to cut each of those down. Of course, I discovered my good fit was a bit too tight depending on which slot I used.

I gave up on the boring tool and chucked it in the 4 jaw on the 1340GT and made quick work of it. Having Mark's proximity stop was great so I didn't have to look from the side to see how far I'd gone in. The next step was to cut the plate in half with my Makita carbide blade. Of course, the block was too big so I had to take parts off the saw stand and use clamps to get it cut. Then, I spent way too much time milling the halves down to width. I should have but it back on the saw but it was cutting slow so I may need a new blade. Those things are spendy.

So, I think I've got it all done and will double check it all tomorrow. Then, cut off the cast iron ring with, I'm guessing, a cutoff tools in the dremel. We'll see how that goes. But, once it's on the mill then I can figure out how best to mount the stop and DRO and then order a new faceplate.

I'll post pics tomorrow of the new collar once it's in place.
 

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
I got the collar installed today. For something so simple it took a long time to make!

The cast iron ring had to be cut halfway through with a dremel cutoff wheel and then I was able to crack it off.

I've left the front sticking out across the whole width for now and I still have to drill/tap the plate for the stop rod. Of course, I've got to get a 1/2-20 bottom tap. I can probably get a couple thread with a spiral tap. I've got to mount the collar the rod rides in to the bottom front of the head. I haven't decided if I'll run that through the faceplate or mount it and have a cutout in plate. The top mount for the DRO will have to be mounted to the faceplate so having a cutout for the stop collar isn't necessary since I'll have to remove the DRO screws anyway to take off the plate.

Once I've got the stop rod mounted I'll figure out exactly where the DRO will go. I'll need to measure how much the DRO will stand off the faceplate and I'll mill the front of the collar down to size and remove most of what's standing out from the face of the mill. I'll only have what I need for the stop rod sticking out so it will look much cleaner.

I've got the new faceplate designed. I like simple so it just says PM833TV in blue and the serial number and mfg. date are smaller in the lower right hand corner. I planned on leaving the top cover off to install a power drawbar which will make the faceplate shorter. I'm still confirming with Greg whether I need to top cover or not. Once confirmed, I'll order the plate and get it all finished.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

parshal

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2016
Messages
188
Man, that is slick! I guess I need a rotary table now unless I could use the 6” super spacer that I’ve yet to remove from its crate.
 
Last edited:

ahazi

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2019
Messages
47
Not sure this will help but might be inspiration.
Definitely inspiring. I have an old rotary table that I will clean up and make ready for the job as soon as I get the other initial install work on the PM-833T. Expecting delivery on Tuesday.

David, what CAD software do you use for your drawings?

Ariel
 
It can take up to an hour for ads to appear on the page. See our code implementation guide for more details. If you already have Auto ad code on your pages there's no need to replace it with this code
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock