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- Dec 18, 2019
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- 6,447
I'll give it a try.
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A hand held drill chuck that doesn't s*%k
- Thread starter WobblyHand
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 6,447
Whacked the hex key with a hammer. The key moved. Nothing else happened. Tried a few more times mostly due to frustration. Same result. Chuck is still on there.
Tried making a poor man's cone wrench out of 0.125" mild steel, with a hacksaw and a file. Filed the wrench until it fit. The nut dimension was different than expected. It ended up with 16.9 mm. Initially I estimated it at 14 mm. Of course the mild steel wrench wasn't up to the task. The wrench distorted and got stuck. The clearance between the chuck and drill is 0.140". Took a while to extract the wrench from in between the chuck and the drill body. Chuck is still on there.
Learned 2 things, 1) making a wrench this way is not much fun and 2) I can buy a small set of HF metric wrenches for less than the cost of a single cone or tappet wrench. The tappet wrench that I found in 16/17mm are 0.181" thick, so I would have to grind to fit.
Gee, this darn chuck is a royal pain. I never expected this much "learning".
Tried making a poor man's cone wrench out of 0.125" mild steel, with a hacksaw and a file. Filed the wrench until it fit. The nut dimension was different than expected. It ended up with 16.9 mm. Initially I estimated it at 14 mm. Of course the mild steel wrench wasn't up to the task. The wrench distorted and got stuck. The clearance between the chuck and drill is 0.140". Took a while to extract the wrench from in between the chuck and the drill body. Chuck is still on there.
Learned 2 things, 1) making a wrench this way is not much fun and 2) I can buy a small set of HF metric wrenches for less than the cost of a single cone or tappet wrench. The tappet wrench that I found in 16/17mm are 0.181" thick, so I would have to grind to fit.
Gee, this darn chuck is a royal pain. I never expected this much "learning".
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 6,447
The key and chuck rotated (together). The key was firmly locked in the chuck.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 6,447
It has a high / low setting with a big slide switch. The drill also has torque settings 1-20 and drill only. I had it in high/drill. I think I tried low/drill with similar results.
I can go try to pull the chuck off my drill again to see if I missed anything. Because you're emulating an impact wrench here you want the sharpest blow and most torque possible. Use the biggest hex key you have, hit it at the very end, metal hammer not a mallet, etc.
Edited to add that penetrating oil wouldn't hurt either.
Edited to add that penetrating oil wouldn't hurt either.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 6,447
I hit it towards the end of the (junk) key with a 2 lb hand sledge! There's not much resistance to rotation... Just to be sure, what rotation am I trying to achieve? And from what vantage point? CW or CCW looking at the key, with the drill behind it?
To answer my question. CCW. Put it in Low/drill. Found a slightly longer key and whacked it. Broke free. Chuck spun right off. Diameter appears to be 0.492" 20 TPI.
To answer my question. CCW. Put it in Low/drill. Found a slightly longer key and whacked it. Broke free. Chuck spun right off. Diameter appears to be 0.492" 20 TPI.
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