Bill M's Pm1340gt Setup

Perfect. That gives me a "warm fuzzy". I did the same, only with a test bar and 1/10th indicator. The test cut method is probably better. Main reason? The test bar is a MT3, which is fine, but the MT3 adaptor from QMT has runout. So much for a high-precision test bar if it's inserted in a MT3 adaptor with runout.
I'm going to check it with a test cut next.

Nice work Bill.
"Better lucky than good any day" is what I say. :D
RIO
 
I seriously considered a test bar, but I have this really accurate chuck so I just stuck a 2" piece of aluminum in it and started cutting. The major side benefit was getting a feel for how the lathe and tooling worked together. :)
 
Seems pretty common to have some misalignment, my headstock was out about 0.001" at 6" and at first was a bit hesitant to mess with the headstock (not knowing squat about lathes). When I did my headstock alignment, I used an 18" 1" precision ground bar that was chucked in my 4J independent with 12" hanging out. I used a 0.0001" dial indicator and checked it along the bar at different points. Used the Jog with low gearing and look at the +/- swing from 0, and did the headstock alignment so that it is the same +/- swing at different points along the bar with it dead nuts at the chuck. Turning the chuck manually, one can see some change from the hand pressure. This minimizes the affect of any misalignment from the jaws, but my Bison 4J combo runs very true (slightly better than my PBA). Then check a test cut as Bill did, assuming your chuck turns true. Like Bill, very small tweaking of the head stock alignment bolts is needed. Also make sure you recheck the lathe bed level prior to the headstock alignment.

Most of the precision test bars I have seen are made in India, they are usually listed as something like 0.0001"maximum run out (not sure over what distance, or this is the TIR at any one point)? I would have used a 5MT test bar if going this route, as the 3MT to 5MTadapter can add error as Rio noted. Looked into getting one, but it is aligned fine as is, and anything further than 6" you would probably use a tailstock, which has a much greater affect. Using collets, like 5C, they can be easily be out 0.001" at 4-6". Bill is fortunate to have a big honking chuck that runs very true. Pretty impressive accuracy on Bill's part.
 
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The nice thing about machining a bar is it will give you a cylinder concentric to the lathe spindle, no run out issues. I did a bar similar to Bill's but setup an indicator at the end of the bar when doing the headstock adjustment. That allowed me to see how much movement I was getting with the screw. It isn't a one to one relationship to the test bar but does gives you some feedback.
 
sanddan, I thought about putting a DI on the end of the bar when I made the adjustments, but I was chasing such a small number and I wasn't sure there would be a direct correlation between the observed movement and what the cuts produced?

I profess that I'm not an expert at this stuff, and just kinda muddle my way through it. :)
 
Pretty impressive accuracy on Bill's part.

I agree, Mark. If I recall correctly, I think Mike (zmotorsports) did exactly the same thing in his initial setup and "shacked" it within .0001. In his PM1340GT setup thread somewhere I think.
I think I'll give it a try next.
RIO
 
I agree, Mark. If I recall correctly, I think Mike (zmotorsports) did exactly the same thing in his initial setup and "shacked" it within .0001. In his PM1340GT setup thread somewhere I think.
I think I'll give it a try next.
RIO

This is correct. I was able to get it extremely close. I checked it about a year ago and it was still on but I am getting ready to build a new stand similar to Dan's this summer and will need to go through it all over again.

Mike.
 
I agree, Mark. If I recall correctly, I think Mike (zmotorsports) did exactly the same thing in his initial setup and "shacked" it within .0001. In his PM1340GT setup thread somewhere I think.
I think I'll give it a try next.
RIO

This is correct. I was able to get it extremely close. I checked it about a year ago and it was still on but I am getting ready to build a new stand similar to Dan's this summer and will need to go through it all over again.

Mike.
 
I agree, Mark. If I recall correctly, I think Mike (zmotorsports) did exactly the same thing in his initial setup and "shacked" it within .0001. In his PM1340GT setup thread somewhere I think.
I think I'll give it a try next.
RIO

This is correct. I was able to get it extremely close. I checked it about a year ago and it was still on but I am getting ready to build a new stand similar to Dan's this summer and will need to go through it all over again.

Mike.
 
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