[4]

Clausing Drill Press (new to me)

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#31
What do you guys think about this hole?





I have two thoughts:
I could mill it into an elongated slot and use it with a mill type hold down for work holding.
I could try to patch it.
For a patch I was thinking this. Drill it out round and then countersink. Then machine a matching cast iron disc and solder it in place. Since this is not structural can I use regular solder or must I use silver solder? I am afraid to really heat up the area and cause a crack.

I am not going to use JB weld or other polymer solutions unless someone has something really spectacular in mind.

Robert
 

Charles Spencer

Active User
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
1,046
Likes
1,120
#32
Well, that 6" Chinese cross slide vise was rather sloppy when I got it. As I said, I tightened it up a bit. I straightened the gibs, adjusted the gib screws, filed and sanded down the castings, cleaned up the acme screws, and installed washers to remove slack. On the bright side, I think I paid about $70 with free shipping on Amazon.

Also, usually when I drill holes in metal I lay them out and center punch them. So using the x-y handles to line it up is very handy for me. That is accurate enough for most things that I do. If I need to be within a couple of thousandths, I'd probably use my mill-drill.
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#33
I just learned the date on this machine is May 2002 per Clausing. They also sent me the manual. it is great shape. I have some ideas for upgrades. Stay tuned.
Robert
 

RandyM

H-M Supporter - Commercial Member
Staff member
H-M Supporter - Commercial Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2011
Messages
2,359
Likes
2,307
#34
Robert,

If you haven't decided on what to do to fix the hole in the table, here is another idea. You could tap it, run a bolt into it from the bottom and grind it flush on the top.
 

Charles Spencer

Active User
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
1,046
Likes
1,120
#35
I just learned the date on this machine is May 2002 per Clausing. They also sent me the manual. it is great shape. I have some ideas for upgrades. Stay tuned.
Robert
Shoot, I got underwear older than that.

You are a lucky bastid.
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#36
Robert,

If you haven't decided on what to do to fix the hole in the table, here is another idea. You could tap it, run a bolt into it from the bottom and grind it flush on the top.
Excellent idea! I was thinking about the reverse. I will probably try that.

R
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#37
What do you guys think about swapping out the motor for a servo motor like this one:



4500 rpm max. 3/4 HP. Variable speed.

R
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#38
Finally made it into the shop!



No comments on the motor?
Has anyone set up a linear actuator to raise and lower the table? Seems like it would be very convenient.

Robert
 
Last edited:

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#39
I am working on a vise hold down. What is the best way to attach a hand wheel to a shaft.

How should I attach the hand wheel so it won't work loose? I was considering three options. Roll pin all the way through. Thread the outer hub and use a set screw onto a flat. Clearance drill the outer hub and thread a hole in the shaft for a screw. I have used the latter option with good results. Thoughts?



Robert
 

Attachments

kd4gij

Active User
Registered
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
4,588
Likes
1,772
#40
A woodruff hey would be the best. If you don't have the means to do that then a set screw and dimple the shaft.

As far as the motor, not Unless you only intend to do light work .
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#41
thank you for the reply. I have the ability to do a key but I'm concerned it will thin The Hub too much. I'm a little afraid a set screw will work loose. I wonder if I have any 1/8 key stock.

As far as the motor is concerned both the original and the servo Motor are 3/4 horsepower. Would I need to de-rate the servo motor for this application?
R
 

kd4gij

Active User
Registered
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
4,588
Likes
1,772
#42
What is wrong with the stock motor?
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#43
What is wrong with the stock motor?
Nothin'. I'm just lazy about changing belts and I thought the variable speed would be nice. Plus the servo motor runs up to 4500 rpm.

I was thinking some more about the Woodruff key. My understanding is that the set screw should bear on the key? I do not have enough material in the hub diameter for that. If I put the set screw opposite the key would that be sub-optimal? I think the key would always be slightly loose and get looser over time.
Robert
 
Last edited:

kd4gij

Active User
Registered
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
4,588
Likes
1,772
#44
I would put 2 setscrews 90degree apart and opposite the key. Think Y configuration
 

kd4gij

Active User
Registered
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
4,588
Likes
1,772
#45
If you are worried about the setscrews coming out you can use blue loc-tit or clear fingernail polish.
 

Cheeseking

Active User
Registered
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
724
Likes
302
#46
Robert,

If you haven't decided on what to do to fix the hole in the table, here is another idea. You could tap it, run a bolt into it from the bottom and grind it flush on the top.
Other than nothing, or simply stoning any high spots around the hole, this is exactly what I would do.
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#47
I made an easily removable chip shield out of Lucite.



Just sits in the oil groove.
I may cut up some digital calipers to make a DRO for the quill.
Robert
 

mattthemuppet2

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Sep 28, 2013
Messages
1,636
Likes
938
#48
I'd highly recommend a variable speed motor, makes life so much easier. I put a 1 1/2hp treadmill motor on my Walker Turner and love it. I can drill, chamfer and tap a hole all with a turn of the dial on one belt. You can also dial in the speed when drilling, which can help a great deal in harder materials.

No idea if that servo would work, don't know much about them. Most people go for a 3ph motor+vfd if starting from scratch, but I collect thrown away treadmills so I always have a motor I can use. Then its just a $60 controller and some bits'n'pieces for the control box. Just about to put one on my 6x26 knee mill, can't wait.

Lovely drill press btw, that'll give you years of pleasure.
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#49
Thanks Matt- I will consider that.
I think I just found a problem with this drill. In use, I notice a rattle that can be heard as well as felt through the quill feed. The quill feeds smoothly with the machine off and this only occurs when it is running. It also seems to be limited to the first 3/4" of feed. Before I pull apart the quill and spindle, does anyone have a good idea what this may be? I am wondering if the spline on the spindle or the pulley is worn/dammaged? The top part of the spline that is visible looks perfect. Could it be one of the spindle bearings? There is no significant runout of the spindle. One solution could be to put a spacer on the quill to eliminate the first 3/4" of travel.
Robert
 

mattthemuppet2

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Sep 28, 2013
Messages
1,636
Likes
938
#50
you're welcome

rattles - quite likely a pulley is loose on its shaft. Recheck all the keys and set screws. My mill made a helluva racket until I tightened the set screw on the motor pulley. Why the first 3/4" of quill travel though?
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#51
Definitely not a loose pulley. (?)
And this attachment may help a few people.





Robert
 

Attachments

Last edited:

mattthemuppet2

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Sep 28, 2013
Messages
1,636
Likes
938
#52
quill return spring? How does the quill return when you release the handle? Might be that it's one notch out of adjustment and the spring is rattling around in the housing until it's tensioned by moving the quill past 3/4".

Spline wear in the 1st 3/4" of the splines? Pulley cover rattling against the body of the drill press?

not much else to go wrong with these things, they're pretty simple machines at the end of the day.
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#53
My fear is it is spline wear.
R
 

mattthemuppet2

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Sep 28, 2013
Messages
1,636
Likes
938
#54
best bet is to drop the quill out and see. That way you can check the splines, the return spring and the bearings all at the same time. Should be hard to do - on my WT you lock the quill lock, take off the return spring and pull the handle out. The quill then just falls out of the bottom (literally, if you haven't locked the quill!). The spindle bearings on mine were a bit rough, so I cleaned out the ancient grease and regreased them, seem to be fine now.
 

Silverbullet

Gold
Registered
Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
3,404
Likes
1,652
#55
I'd fill the hole with epoxy mixed with cast iron grindings . Itll fill in tight and look like cast iron. With a little fileing and sanding your fixed. Not perfect but better. The noise I hope is nothing much ,I've never had one that didn't make that noise. It's kind of inherent to the way there made. I bet the slowest speed will be the most used , most drill presses run way to fast for metal working.
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#56
For now, I think I am going to leave the hole and use it to lock down the vise. The location is not ideal but it will work.

I took apart the quill assy:



All of the parts are in excellent condition with one exception. I believe the bearings that hold the pulley carrier have a little slop. The spline seems almost perfect. Also I just discovered that a set screw is missing from the pulley. It must have been thrown at some point in its life. The pulley was still very tight and held by a key and retaining clip so no rotary movement there. This may however, have contributed to the problem since the pulley's position keeps the bearing stack together. If the pulley migrated slightly upward you could get some end play in the stack.

I have ordered new 6205-DS bearings. There is also a little teflon washer that is beat up but it is a proprietary washer to fit the spline so I don't think I will easily find that. (unless you know where?). The spindle bearings seem perfect with no end play there.

Aside: Am I the only one who thinks Jacobs Super Chucks have too much travel to lock and unlock the jaws? My South bend chuck seems much better in this regard.

Robert
 
Last edited:

dlane

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Sep 27, 2014
Messages
2,945
Likes
1,385
#57
I seen all of those last week :rolleyes:
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#58
I seen all of those last week :rolleyes:
Yes you did! Well designed isn't it?!
Does anyone have an idea about the bearing ratings for this. I ordered ABEC 1 rated bearings. Is that a mistake?
Robert
 
Last edited:

dlane

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Sep 27, 2014
Messages
2,945
Likes
1,385
#59
I ended up with Timken ABEC 3 according to the guy at the bearing Shop for all four, a little over $120.00
But they were made in turkey :distrust:
Yes they are well made, #1 bearings should be fine, it’s a drill press
 

rwm

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
1,383
Likes
1,583
#60
New bearings and it feels much smoother.
Finished the DRO:



Importantly, I made no modifications to the drill itself. I used all existing mounts.
I just measured the runout on the Southbend drill chuck you see in the picture. .007= crap. Going back to the Jacobs Superchuck. That is about .003

Robert
 
Last edited:
[6]
[5] [7]
Top