Dating my vintage craftsman 12inch . My first day on the site.

1/3 HP is probably a little underpowered for a 12” lathe. You’ll probably be happier with the 1HP.
 
There are sellers here but many are probably on ebay. Like most things theres not a lot of people looking for parts for 80 year old lathes.
Then theres the “oh you need xyz, i got one”

Just keep scanning ebay, facebook market place and Craig's list and any local for sale sources.

I have been picking up older but still functional measuring tools

If you have time to travel I have seen some good deals but to far for me to travel .

If your looking to restore with original parts just be patient.
If your looking to get it up and running and use it , do what ever you can , buy it , trade it , make it

As for a larger motor ? It might not be needed.

Now your reverse. Some older motors you have to shut off and wait for any motor movement to stop or it will just keep going in the same direction.

Pretty sure Mrpete covers that also.
Happy New Year

Yes I .
Thank you. I was able to get a tailstock bracket I also JB welded mine and it seems to be fine but for 35 bucks I wanted a unbroken part in case mine failed and incouldnt get one . I was able make a lock type nut for the carriage lock and fix my railstock lock and spindle lock. It's 100%

My motor is. A/C craftsman 1/3. It is.conmected to the back by the wore coming from the lathes switch (.Pic below) that. Switch has forward, reverse and off. Only off and forward works. But my motor also has a on/off switch attached to a little base The motor rests on. With another wire coming out thst is cut and tapped off. It looks like the plug to the motor. So the lathe connects to the back of the motor but the motor also has its own plug with anon/off switch. It's wired bit how ot came.
I thought the switch below will reverse the motor, should I reconnect the the other wire from the motor to the lathe. ??? Does this make sense??

The motor had it'd own power cord coming from under it but it looks like the plug part was cut off and tapped. Then the wire from the lathe switch is connected to the back of the motor. ????????

I really want the chuck to reverse if needed. I fixed everything else the lathe is 100% working all aspects. It does need some parts replaced to be better but everything works , everything is on the lathe that it came with.

What am I missing?? Is this wore set up screwy or is it me??

Ken
 

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1/3 HP is probably a little underpowered for a 12” lathe. You’ll probably be happier with the 1HP.
My motor is set up weired. It's wired to.the back from the lathe switch. But it also has its own on/off switch I n a base it sits on with another wire ( its power plug I think) coming off that was cut and tapped. That's how it came to.me. so this switch only goes forward or stops even though it has reverse. That set up is off some way. Or is the awotch wired wrong??? It look like it was worednalong time ago. I.opend it up. It's weird the lathe connects to the back ifnthe motor from this switch. But the motor has a base with a on/off switch and power plug. What is up. I have a 1hp motor I tooknoff my Milwaukee delta 10inch band saw I sold. But I don't want to replace the motor until I lnow rhe switch works for reverse. If that makes any sense. .any suggestions ?
Ken
 

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Thank you. I was able to get a tailstock bracket I also JB welded mine and it seems to be fine but for 35 bucks I wanted a unbroken part in case mine failed and incouldnt get one . I was able make a lock type nut for the carriage lock and fix my railstock lock and spindle lock. It's 100%

My motor is. A/C craftsman 1/3. It is.conmected to the back by the wore coming from the lathes switch (.Pic below) that. Switch has forward, reverse and off. Only off and forward works. But my motor also has a on/off switch attached to a little base The motor rests on. With another wire coming out thst is cut and tapped off. It looks like the plug to the motor. So the lathe connects to the back of the motor but the motor also has its own plug with anon/off switch. It's wired bit how ot came.
I thought the switch below will reverse the motor, should I reconnect the the other wire from the motor to the lathe. ??? Does this make sense??

The motor had it'd own power cord coming from under it but it looks like the plug part was cut off and tapped. Then the wire from the lathe switch is connected to the back of the motor. ????????

I really want the chuck to reverse if needed. I fixed everything else the lathe is 100% working all aspects. It does need some parts replaced to be better but everything works , everything is on the lathe that it came with.

What am I missing?? Is this wore set up screwy or is it me??

Ken
Mepere222 had a video that may help
 
My motor is set up weired. It's wired to.the back from the lathe switch. But it also has its own on/off switch I n a base it sits on with another wire ( its power plug I think) coming off that was cut and tapped. That's how it came to.me. so this switch only goes forward or stops even though it has reverse. That set up is off some way. Or is the awotch wired wrong??? It look like it was worednalong time ago. I.opend it up. It's weird the lathe connects to the back ifnthe motor from this switch. But the motor has a base with a on/off switch and power plug. What is up. I have a 1hp motor I tooknoff my Milwaukee delta 10inch band saw I sold. But I don't want to replace the motor until I lnow rhe switch works for reverse. If that makes any sense. .any suggestions ?
Ken
Looks like its been messed with.
1. I would check the F iff R awitch make sure it works
2. Find a wite diagram if possible.

Looks like the switch cable is not routed correctly.

Mrpete had same problem maybe this will help
 
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Looks like its been messed with.
1. I would check the F iff R awitch make sure it works
2. Find a wite diagram if possible.

Looks like the switch cable is not routed correctly.

Mrpete had same problem maybe this will help
Looks like its been messed with.
1. I would check the F iff R awitch make sure it works
2. Find a wite diagram if possible.

Looks like the switch cable is not routed correctly.

Mrpete had same problem maybe this will help
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately the video didn't work.. ??? But the switch on the lathe works , it just doesn't turn the motor in reverse. It's all original wiring in there. It's weird.. the motor has its own switch and plug, I was wondering if that could be a issue.??
I wanted to post this were all.can see. Someone most likely knows what's up. I can't be the only person that had an issue woth reverse.
I did look at Mr Pete's videos about wiring before I asked about mine. i.didnt see any that appeared to make sense with this mess. But I'll look again.
Is.there a way to post to a general feed so all can see ??? like facebook??? The more that see greatens the chance I'll get a definite answer

Thanks

Ken
 
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately the video didn't work.. ??? But the switch on the lathe works , it just doesn't turn the motor in reverse. It's all original wiring in there. It's weird.. the motor has its own switch and plug, I was wondering if that could be a issue.??
I wanted to post this were all.can see. Someone most likely knows what's up. I can't be the only person that had an issue woth reverse.
I did look at Mr Pete's videos about wiring before I asked about mine. i.didnt see any that appeared to make sense with this mess. But I'll look again.
Is.there a way to post to a general feed so all can see ??? like facebook??? The more that see greatens the chance I'll get a definite answer

Thanks

Ken
My dad was an electrician and he had a smaller “Electricians Reference” book he was never was out of arms reach of. Im pretty sure it had a section on how to wire motors for different applications.

Maybe if you email mrpete222 he can help with what he did

As far as I can remember your motor will have power to the motor with or with out a switch , my guess is a switch is easier than unplugging it when needed?
And then the control switch
 
My dad was an electrician and he had a smaller “Electricians Reference” book he was never was out of arms reach of. Im pretty sure it had a section on how to wire motors for different applications.

Maybe if you email mrpete222 he can help with what he did

As far as I can remember your motor will have power to the motor with or with out a switch , my guess is a switch is easier than unplugging it when needed?
And then the control switch
Tha KS. I did watch this. I think it's the motor mine came with. It looks like a grinder. As I had state prior it has its own plug and on/off switch. I have a newer full horse motor I'm going to attach. I've been practicing my cuts experimenting with all the differnt cut tools I got with the unit. I was surprised to earn a round tool makes a decent finish. Who the hell knew that lol????

Since I'm replying ( I'd been out of pocket awhile) , now, I got a 4 jaw with this "package" I recently cleaned and mounted it. It rattled and almost shook my lathe off the table. WHY???? my 3 Jaw is 5 inch and runes decent I don't have any dial indicators as of yet and can't tell if its running true or not but it runs fairly smooth. The 4 jaw independent chuck is inches and a crazy 20lbs. The lathe is level for sure. How to I go about trying to fix this new issue??

Thanks.


Ken
 
Tha KS. I did watch this. I think it's the motor mine came with. It looks like a grinder. As I had state prior it has its own plug and on/off switch. I have a newer full horse motor I'm going to attach. I've been practicing my cuts experimenting with all the differnt cut tools I got with the unit. I was surprised to earn a round tool makes a decent finish. Who the hell knew that lol????

Since I'm replying ( I'd been out of pocket awhile) , now, I got a 4 jaw with this "package" I recently cleaned and mounted it. It rattled and almost shook my lathe off the table. WHY???? my 3 Jaw is 5 inch and runes decent I don't have any dial indicators as of yet and can't tell if its running true or not but it runs fairly smooth. The 4 jaw independent chuck is inches and a crazy 20lbs. The lathe is level for sure. How to I go about trying to fix this new issue??

Thanks.
Sounds like the 4 jaw is not sitting “square” with your spindle.
Cutters with larger radius can produce a better surface finish. Think of it as a putty knife. Try making a flat surface with a 1” putty knife vs 6” blade.
Another way to think of it. That round cutter is acting like a plow, flattening any ridges
 
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