Those jumpers look (at least for the majority of dual voltage motors) like they are set for 120v. Usually the primary windings are U1-U2 and V1-V2. Those jumpers are paralleling those windings. You could take the jumpers off and take resistance measurements to confirm they are the winding terminals. The wiring diagram for 110v also shows U1 to V1 and U2 to V2 always connected with either rotation direction.
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Enco 110-0820 In need of TLC
- Thread starter Ajroberts2020
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2020
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- 5
Right now, I took one of the hots and made it a neutral just to test. (I didn't have any 110v plugs at the time). I've been told that it might be dangerous if I chose the wrong hot to make a neutral. Also, if I want the motor to work cooler, I should run it at 220v, so any suggestion on how I change the motor to be correct for 220v?
Even if I just leave it the way it is I need to test to see if it works. I am going to make a chuck key for the 3-jaw vise tomorrow morning so that I can put it on and see how accurate this thing is. If I can cut any kind of thread I will keep it and probably eventually upgrade it.
Even if I just leave it the way it is I need to test to see if it works. I am going to make a chuck key for the 3-jaw vise tomorrow morning so that I can put it on and see how accurate this thing is. If I can cut any kind of thread I will keep it and probably eventually upgrade it.
1. As you have found, never assume that anything wired by someone else is wired correctly. Just because someone used a 220v plug on the cord doesn't mean he wired his outlet 220v. He may have just wanted a twist lock plug used what he had available.
2. On a 3/4 hp motor switching to 220v will make virtually no difference in the motors operating temperature.
More information is needed before we can conclusively give an answer on how to switch it to 220v, the motor winding terminals would need to be confirmed as well as the reversing switch internal connection pattern. Again, not really anything to be gained by switching anyway.
3. On a machine that can be also be wired 220v, when wired for 110v it does not matter which line is hot or neutral.
2. On a 3/4 hp motor switching to 220v will make virtually no difference in the motors operating temperature.
More information is needed before we can conclusively give an answer on how to switch it to 220v, the motor winding terminals would need to be confirmed as well as the reversing switch internal connection pattern. Again, not really anything to be gained by switching anyway.
3. On a machine that can be also be wired 220v, when wired for 110v it does not matter which line is hot or neutral.
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
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- 11,334
At 3/4 HP it's a toss up as to power. 1 HP or more is best on 240v, mainly to avoid overheating the supply lines in your house/garage and/or tripping a breaker. There might be a slight temp reduction of the motor itself, only as a result of less voltage drop in the supply lines therefore more voltage available at the motor making it operate slightly more efficiently. The switch may last longer with less current also.
Also, you don't "make a neutral" from a hot. If you mean that you are deriving 120v from the 240 input plug/cord then you take either of the two incoming hot leads and the neutral giving 120v between them, plus the ground to the chassis making a 3-wire connection.
It shouldn't matter which of the two hot leads you choose, unless there is something unusual about the way your house breakers are configured (for example, a 240 volt outlet where only one of the two hots is run through a breaker and the other one not, or breakers of two different ratings for the two hots)
-mark
Also, you don't "make a neutral" from a hot. If you mean that you are deriving 120v from the 240 input plug/cord then you take either of the two incoming hot leads and the neutral giving 120v between them, plus the ground to the chassis making a 3-wire connection.
It shouldn't matter which of the two hot leads you choose, unless there is something unusual about the way your house breakers are configured (for example, a 240 volt outlet where only one of the two hots is run through a breaker and the other one not, or breakers of two different ratings for the two hots)
-mark
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