Euro Style edge finder.. any with imperial sizes?

I have one of those Euro edge finders just like the one in the photo. It requires a 10MM R8 collet so I bought one just for that purpose. Mostly it sits in the rack and my go-to one is one I made some years ago. I need to do a little experimenting and do a comparison test between the Euro one and the home made one, maybe even make a new one
just for fun.

Edit: Looking at those Euro edge finders, I see some of them have the business end made in titanium or stainless steel. Maybe will make one with stainless steel and add a small flat just to see the outcome.
 
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Dabbler said:
This might be what you are looking for

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That link can be shortened to everything before the question mark.

I'm about due, my 45 y/o Starrett is getting a little finicky.
 
I would be hesitant to buy a brass edge finder. I would think it would wear.
 
ChazzC said:
FWIW, Chris at Tigermoth Racing uses a different way of using these edge finders (starting at 3:13).

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That is a an interesting way to use an edge finder. I tried a quick R&R of the method and found it would get me to around a thousandth.. My calluses reduce the sensitivity.Rather than using the pad of my finger to detect the offset, I used my fingernail.

I use my 1/2" edge finder 99% of the time when locating an edge. I find the 1/2" more sensitive. I use the .2" edge finder for small holes. I routinely locate an edge to .0001" with three repeats to call it good. I have a half dozen of them but my go-to is an Enco that I bought maybe forty years ago. I prefer to use an edgefinder as it is indifferent to runout, centering on the spindle axis just prior to kickout. While my 1/2" edgefinder is permanently mounted in a TTS ER20 chuck, if I am using one of the other edge finders, I might be using a three jaw chuck for mounting. Note that the alternative method in the video above is sensitive to runout.

The secret to a good edge finder is a smooth ground interface between the tip and the shank, a light spring action, and a little bit of light oil lube on the interface. The secret to reproducible results is approaching the touch point slowly. If you move too fast, with an initial offset, it will kick out prematurely. If it is centered, you can overshoot. As I approach the touch point, I move the work at about .0001"/sec. When I back the edge finder off for another try, I just move a thousandth or so and use my fingers to center the tip. Then it only takes a few seconds to make the next pass.

Edge finder kickout is more noticeable at higher rpm. I typically run at around 1000 rpm.
 
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