Euro Style edge finder.. any with imperial sizes?

Have a DRO on my mill, so it doesn't matter to me, DRO reads both and will switch from one system to another.
that's a error waiting to happen, and very annoying to have to change back and forth.
So maybe I need to make one in imperial sizes, and lap the mating surface.
When you look at the offerings, they seem to indicate that the tip is 4mm, and the next largest diameter is .2" but that's not possible given the picture. 4mm is .157 and that does not look 43 thou larger. On other pics it appears to also be 10mm as is the holding shank.
The largest diameter appears to be 18mm or .7086" considerably more than .5" that I can fit. I would consider making one 3/4"

The big question is what material, and what spring to use.
 
that's a error waiting to happen, and very annoying to have to change back and forth.
It's not ideal, but if I'm planning to machine using mm, (with an imperial edge finder) I space the zero over by 2.54mm. You could offset 0.157x, or whatever it is.

In practice, I haven't found switching measurement systems on my mill to be inaccurate, but I was only checking one axis. For my own DRO reader on my lathe, I just convert from one system to the other, never found an issue there for either axis either.
 
What's with this new edge finder ? Basic Starrett is good for .0002 or any other quality brand for that matter . Everyone here own jig grinders now ? If you need true position of -.0001 an edge finder is not the right tool . :rolleyes::grin:
 
What's with this new edge finder ? Basic Starrett is good for .0002 or any other quality brand for that matter . Everyone here own jig grinders now ? If you need true position of -.0001 an edge finder is not the right tool . :rolleyes::grin:
it only works well if you can see it. I can't see it kick over. I struggle with that, and that's why I use a wiggler. It shows very well, but if you read my posts, it has some drawbacks.
 
it only works well if you can see it. I can't see it kick over.
Well that's because you're an old SOB like me Jeff . A piece of white paper = .003 , and a ciggerette film thing is .001 . Slide it in and you'll be close enough my friend . These days I stop dialing in when the things explode and I end up with springs and **** everywhere . :grin:
 
Going over the entire thread quickly , our machining centers are USA as in Inch increments . CNC handwheels are in .0001 increments . We touch off in .0001 incremments on the dial , raise the spindle , change over to .100 increments and push a button . :grin: Jig bores or jig grinders using a edge finder got you out the door quickly . You learned this as a first year apprentice .
 
Well that's because you're an old SOB like me Jeff . A piece of white paper = .003 , and a ciggerette film thing is .001 . Slide it in and you'll be close enough my friend . These days I stop dialing in when the things explode and I end up with springs and **** everywhere . :grin:
oh come on Dave, you haven't been in the shop working for a long time. Hell, you can't even get into your shop. Not without climbing over everything. :einstein:
 
I have a 1/2" double-enders from both Enco and Starrett: 1/2" and 0.200" ends. Also have a 3/8" Starrett with an 0.200" end. Also, a Starrett 1/2" with a cone point. I use an ER-32 collet chuck on my Bridgeport and primarily use either a 1/2" or 3/8" collet; having 1/2" and 3/8" edgefinders keep me from having to swap collets. I usually do a few hits for a consistency check; but I'm way off topic (as usual. . .) as the OP was asking about finding an imperial edgefinder. There are many Starrett's on eBay (827 model) for under $30.

Bruce

I also have a wiggler set with 1/2" (3/8"?) base from Enco. One of the import 18mm electronic ones (requires the material being measured to be conductive); that one sets in an 18mm ER-32 collet. Also have a Bore-ite 3/8" or 1/2" electronic one with a 0.200" tip; light only, no tone. I use the 1/2" Starrett 99% of the time. I also occasionally use an SDA laser-edge finder; I have cross hair and concentric circle models. Both have 3/8" shanks; accuracy is no where's near a mechanical edge finder.
 
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it only works well if you can see it. I can't see it kick over. I struggle with that, and that's why I use a wiggler. It shows very well, but if you read my posts, it has some drawbacks.
If you think the euro style edge finder will work better for you, I would suggest purchasing one and seeing if it does improve your situation. I wouldn't try to modify it. Keep it around for those times when you would be working in metric dimensions.

Can you explain what exactly is your difficulty? I have astigmatism in both eyes as well as progressing cataracts and I have no trouble seeing the kick out on either my .500" or .200" tips. I have lighting from above and look for the reflection on the interface rather than the cylindrical surface.
 
If you think the euro style edge finder will work better for you, I would suggest purchasing one and seeing if it does improve your situation. I wouldn't try to modify it. Keep it around for those times when you would be working in metric dimensions.

Can you explain what exactly is your difficulty? I have astigmatism in both eyes as well as progressing cataracts and I have no trouble seeing the kick out on either my .500" or .200" tips. I have lighting from above and look for the reflection on the interface rather than the cylindrical surface.
I have Keratoconus.. (spelling) in both eyes, I have already had cataract surgery years ago. But because of the Keratoconus I was less than an ideal candidate.

I am sure that part of the problem is the lights. I think having the old fluorescents and now the new leds, the flickering makes it more difficult to see the kick. That's why I went to the wiggler. When I see the euro style on Utube it always looks way more pronounced than the standard edge finders we have.

edit: The only reason I haven't purchased the Euro is the 10mm size, I have MT2, which as far as I know is all imperial, I haven't seen metric collets with 3/8 - 16 drawbar.
 
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