Excellco 602 Mill

They are interrupted by the keyway, I hadn't thought about a tape. I have some uhmw tape that would probably work great.

Thanks!!

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Ok, here's a question for the truly experienced. These bushings are supposed to be inset on the sheave. Meaning there should be a recess, say 1/32" deep to accommodate a 1/16" plastic bushing (these dimensions are for concept only). So on the bottom of the pulley half the the recess is machined into the bore to provide a lip that keeps the bushing from sliding down. On the top of the bore there WAS a section that has somehow been broken or beaten away. How can I retain the top bushing?

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Assuming you can't buy a suitable replacement:

1) Build up with weld and re-machine the bore, bushing groove(s?), bearing spud and key-way as required.

2) There is a lot of air (space) between bottom of the bearing and the sheave disk. cut the top off the sheave and weld on new material. Then machine bore, bushing groove, bearing spud and key-way.
 
I'm thinking that the lip is gone because the bushings are LONG gone and the sheave has been nutating long enough to remove that lip.
My assumption implies that the sheave bore is now quite a bit larger than it was designed to be.
 
The lip is gone from what ever beat the hell out of it. It's covered with dents and nicks like someone set something on the on top, forgetting there's no lid. The shaft still slides nicely with a good feel, but because the lip is gone there are lots of nicks in the top bushing.

Would a thin shim between the bearing and bearing carrier hurt? This could be made maybe 0.004" over the shaft diameter so as not to contact the shaft, but retain the bushing. I could then remove what ever is left of the lip and make the bushing a bit taller.

So, what is a "bearing spud"?
 
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Gentlemen:

Getting close to having my 620 back together. Got all the gears in the head back in and closed up. Replaced X and Y lead screws and bushings. Had to make a new dial for one end that was missing... Only 200 indexes to take care of that with a rotating TopNotch boring bar.
In one of the questions in these threads, Yes, there is a .156 ball, spring, and set screw for 5 detents in the feed/neutral cylindrical rack. The screw is located on the lower right corner of the plate below the shifter. The hole is relatively deep so the set screw goes in 5 or 6 revolutions before it engages the spring.

Looking to seeing more on this, may need your help! I hate having to do everything the hard way. Looking forward to getting a peek at your machines.

Best regards, Gary

EX CEL O 620.jpg
 
G MORSCH said:
Gentlemen:

Getting close to having my 620 back together. Got all the gears in the head back in and closed up. Replaced X and Y lead screws and bushings. Had to make a new dial for one end that was missing... Only 200 indexes to take care of that with a rotating TopNotch boring bar.
In one of the questions in these threads, Yes, there is a .156 ball, spring, and set screw for 5 detents in the feed/neutral cylindrical rack. The screw is located on the lower right corner of the plate below the shifter. The hole is relatively deep so the set screw goes in 5 or 6 revolutions before it engages the spring.

Looking to seeing more on this, may need your help! I hate having to do everything the hard way. Looking forward to getting a peek at your machines.

Best regards, Gary
Click to expand...
Thanks, I see the hole on the feed speed panel. Is this what you refer to? For the pull knob in the center of the fine feed wheel? If so that's great! Thanks.

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Surveywaters said:
The lip is gone from what ever beat the hell out of it. It's covered with dents and nicks like someone set something on the on top, forgetting there's no lid. The shaft still slides nicely with a good feel, but because the lip is gone there are lots of nicks in the top bushing.

Would a thin shim between the bearing and bearing carrier hurt? This could be made maybe 0.004" over the shaft diameter so as not to contact the shaft, but retain the bushing. I could then remove what ever is left of the lip and make the bushing a bit taller.

So, what is a "bearing spud"?
Click to expand...

Bearing spud = The end of the part machined to receive the bearing. Spud= short shaft. I found this definition on line, "A short section of pipe or a threaded fitting that completes a connection, as between a longer pipe and a nozzle,valve, or meter." Maybe my usage (not my invention) has taken it a bit further.
I didn't understand that the lip end alone was damaged. I assumed the sheave had wallowed around long enough that the sheave bore was substantially oversize.
Well, if the bore of the sheave is in good shape, I would build up the end of the part with weld and re-machine to reconstruct the missing lip. Do you have a lathe?
I don't really understand what the .004" shim is about or where you would put it. I don't find a part named "bearing carrier" in the Manual. Please use the part numbers from the diagram in the manual so I can follow.
 
Any tips on the initial setup of the rpm gauge? I didn't think that through before disassembly and now I'm realizing that it can be assembled incorrectly. I guess I need to understand the initial setup of the pulleys when reinstalling. The extents of adjustment should answer the first question.
I am referring to the location of the stop nuts on either side of the fork adjuster # 52-12069
 
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