few questions

ya thanks for the help guys. i checked the runout on the chuck spindle and it was around .0005 so i would say thats pretty good for an old lathe. and that means the 3 jaw chuck is messed up is there anyway to fix the runout on it or not worth it and just get a new one? also whats the thread size for when i go to get a differnt chuck? and what size chuck would you guys recomend for this 12" lathe?
 
bluedxj said:
ya thanks for the help guys. i checked the runout on the chuck spindle and it was around .0005 so i would say thats pretty good for an old lathe. and that means the 3 jaw chuck is messed up is there anyway to fix the runout on it or not worth it and just get a new one? also whats the thread size for when i go to get a differnt chuck? and what size chuck would you guys recomend for this 12" lathe?
Click to expand...

Before you decide to purchase a new chuck, disassemble and clean that one.

We'll start easy first. Look to see if the jaws are numbered and the slots are numbered ( they should match ). If not marked, mark them. Turn them out and clean both the jaws themselves and the scroll. Reassemble starting with number 1, then 2 and finally 3. Make sure you don't miss a tooth or they won't center correctly.

If that improves runout, great. If not, take them back out and unbolt the backing plate from the chuck. Mark where it goes together so you can reassemble it in the same location.


I see "XJ" is part of your username. My wife drives our '01 XJ with a 2" lift and 30/9.50-15's
th_DCP_3133JF.jpg

Jeff

th_DCP_3133JF.jpg
 
ok ill give that a try. and ya i drive an xj too mines lifted on 32's. there great and cheap to work on too.
 
what kind or grease/oil gun do you use to get those little grease fittings on the apron?
 
no the ones on the apron they look kinda like tiny zerk fittings.
 
bluedxj,

The spring-loaded ball type oilers come in various sizes. But in general, you use a pump equipped oil can with a special tip. Instead of the tip being smoothly tapered from where it attaches to the spout to the end, near the end it gets larger again. Such that from a distance the tip looks like it has a small flat washer on it. Except the the washer is conical, at least on the delivery side. The cone is just steep enough that it both depresses the ball and seals the opening. However, the seal is not too effective and typically some of the oil runs down the front of the saddle. This tip is also handy for opening the oilers with the spingloaded cap.

I have been thinking that maybe dipping the tip in some of that stuff they used to sell for coating tool handles, letting it cure, and then cleaning out the hole might give a better seal.

Robert D.
 
Thanks Jeff for pointing the topic for the others.

I was a tad bit busy today, my 84 yr old mother fell twice today. Dad and I are concerned. Parkinson's is eating her brain. Been a bad week.
Pierre
 
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