[Mill] Finally got my first mill now I need help identifying it

The Legend said:
The lead screw looks to be about 8tpi
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Sure has all the qualities of an old jig boare even the collets . Plenty heavy steel and castings all mangled together. Wonder if gorton made jig boares. Ill bet its sturdy but the cuts im not sure on. Good luck have fun n be carefull.
 
Thanks , guys and your description of tramming makes a ton of sense now thanks. I’ll take some pictures of my first cuts and we can have a look and see if it’s in need of a tramming but I’m hoping to Give this old machine a new lease.
 
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Alright , it’s been a couple days I’ve cut some aluminum ... I tried making a 6 sided die , that was probably my first mistake because now I can’t get over the not squareness lol here’s a picture of some cuts.image.jpg
It started out as a cupcake mold I had cast from pop cans and it’s only nominally 16mm “^2” now I’ve spent a few days figuring out a good way to set up he indicator to let me know how trammed it is and over about 11 inches it appears to be off a whopping 70 thousandths which on a 16mm cube isn’t much but it still means it’s way out on the x if I’m to understand that right. So I have some feeler gauges and I’m probably gonna be shimming a bit haha what I wonder is should I tram the head /motor / belts etc to the table or should I tram the table to all of that ?
 
Also I’m not sure if I’ve made this clear yet but upon remeasuring the collets are almost certainly 3C so that mystery is behind me for now but I’m still relatively unsure if buying a set of 3c collets is the best bet or if there is some other option that I’m unaware of
 
I would tram the dovetails the spindle rides up and down on to be perpendicular to the table. I would then adjust / shim the spindle to run parallel to the dovetails. If the dovetails are not perpendicular to the table every time you move the spindle up or down on the dovetails its X and Y position will shift slightly.
 
I would check the geometry of the machine and spindle runout before I went with further given that it's a Frankenmill.

I'm just finishing up an early 1900's Steptoe horizontal that'd been retrofitted with a Tree vertical head, and while the table itself had seen a couple of ugly crashes in its prior life as a horizontal mill it was in decent shape. Some significant scarring of the flat ways like you have- but plenty of good bearing surface still. Stone the heck out of it, clean it and lube the ways then some basic checks one would usually make.

The head doesn't tilt or nod- so I would first confirm the squareness of the table in both axes to the quill. It's one thing to cobble together a drill press, quite another for the precision of a miller- much less a jig borer. I'd stone the table, and sweep it with an indicator off the quill. Check the quill bearings, etc. with an indicator inside the taper to see what kind of runout you have.

Hopefully it all checks out at least good enough for a hobbyist machine, but I wouldn't want to spend weeks disassembling, cleaning, lubing etc. only to find out the quill bearings were shot or the table isn't square.

Good luck, keep us posted on the progress. I've got a weakness for old iron myself :)
 
So , let me update this as I have been wanting to now. A recent development is that I have picked up a 99% complete EMCO Compact/Standard MQ4100 lathe and milling machine and I am currently working with that machine to learn the ropes and get it cutting threads. My intention is to use that machine to restore this one , to update I did some shimming on the table and was able to get the table “mostly” trammed to the spindle although in time I’ll see how feasible that is but I still believe there are good bones to this frankenmachine and really I think it would be a decent project to workout a custom knee since the entire table is separable from the spindle and because the quill feed is really not great for making downward cuts I think a better option would be to Set up the table to move as opposed to setting up the head to utilize the like 3 inches of travel it has
 
I think on of the best parts about this machine is it’s the last model in this series and was designed from the factory to take ER25 collets !!! And I got a decent set of them with this So for now I don’t have to wonder what collets I can use haha and in time I may even be able to make a set for the Jigenmillerfrankenborer
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Tell me about it !!! And with the mounting style of the milling head and the over designed nature of the spindle bearing setups I would presume this thing will have more than enough rigidity for my needs for just about ever lol , this was the 3-1 I always dreamed of getting someday to be honest because of their design and I just got super super lucky
 
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