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Five Cylinder Radial With Ohc

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AT last positive news the assembly of the cages went smoothly , and I made three drill bushes to guide the drills when I open the ports in the cages, this gives me stages to inspect to see if the alignment is correct.
At this point I have decided that it would be wiser to continue work on these two heads just in case a design change is needed. so the (scrap) head will be used to test. followed by the first production head, only when I have a full working assembly will I continue with the other four.
I have done another slide video. but have made a mess of the titles for each slide I had it all OK but the upload swiped off all my work. However you can see it on my You Tube channel
( brian hogger ) I cant seem to get it to run from here.
The valve seats are perfect 45° .5 mm wide and concentric with the valve guide.
Brian.
two seats.JPG
 
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The next stage was to remove the location spigot and bring the head to it's correct length.
Then cut the last fin, this fin is not 180°, the rear of the head has a place for the bracket to hold the ignition sensor.
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I think I now need two valves
Brian.
 
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The valves are made over length and will be trimmed to size when the cam is in place so that's the next job
I think the cam box will come first So I will have to order the Oillite bushes .
Brian.
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wrmiller

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Brian, so as the valve/seat interface wears you will just trim the valve stem to compensate? Or are you using something like a shim-under-bucket adjustment mechanism? My apologies if you answered this somewhere earlier in your thread. :)
 
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Hi Bill
Yes I have the option of both . the bedding down of the valve seat is often compensated by the cam settling
into its follower, and the valve settling into the inside of the follower, It is unusual for the lash to reduce, so a shim may have to be added inside the follower after it has all bedded down.
This also begs the question as to what part do you harden as you require a soft part running against a had one
I am thinking that hardening the follower bucket may be the best.
And you have no need to apologise , asking questions Is the life blood of the forum, and also my pleasure
in answering them, we all learn from it.
Brian.
 

kvt

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Brian, I would say the valve stem and the bucket would need to be hard, The valve face is normally hardened a bit more than the shaft but both are wear areas. And the bucket against the valve will be the second wear area. not sure about the cam lobes. I may be wrong on this but that was my thinking. or thinking when not equipped.
 
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Today I made a start on the cam box. the blank for the body was drilled then bored .
When it came to making the end plate I looked at the 12 1/2" Length of bar and wondered if it was possible to simply machine it without reducing the length,
so my 7x12 took the bar between the standard 4jaw and the centre, the end plate was machined on the end of the bar, then parted down to 8mm and cut off with a saw.
just for the fun of doing it.

Well we all have those day's don't we .
Brian.

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wrmiller

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Love following this thread. Keep it up Brian! :)
 
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The next stage was to mill the box and end plate down to size, Having lifted the head of the mill to gain clearance for the rotary table and boring head. Now I had to lift my small vice high enough so the cutter would reach using the 3 2 1 blocks.
The box is now to size ready for the real work to begin.

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Slowly Slowly Brian.
 
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The next step was to cut the two holes for the cam followers.
Then mill the access port in the side to allow the valve clearances to be set, the cover for this port will hold a felt pad to lubricate the cam and follower. Cylinders No 1 - 4 - 5 have the port on the right hand side No 2 - 3 have it on the left, Looking from the front of the engine.
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tomw

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Brian,

I have been following your progress from the beginning. I am very impressed by your work. Your progress has made me try harder to be a better amateur machinist. Thank you so much for continuing this build log.

Cheers,
Tom
 
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The next stage is to drill and tap the 3mm holes for the cambox mounting screws. but first I have to ensure that the two parts align properly.
To achieve this a pair of stepped dowels where made that fit the bore of the cam follower and the clearance holes in the base of the cambox to provide a positive location, perfectly in alignment.
Now I can drill through both tapping size. then open out the holes in the cambox to just clear the screws and counter bore to recess the heads.

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Brian.
 
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Following on from the last post ,The head and cam box was aligned very carefully on the mill
and the holes drilled relying on the edge finder and I Gaging for positioning.
On one side the holes are very close to the edge of the access port so a pilot drill was used first then the tapping size drill.
The clearance holes in the cam box where drilled slightly undersize without disturbing the settings, to the exact depth of the box then reamed after removal from the mill
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Slowly Slowly Brian.
 
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Todays contribution was to make the blank for the cam shaft. Prior to cutting the cams I have a small mod to do to the rotary table to make life easier. and repeatable.
The Oilite bearings have arrived , only awaiting the 2.5mm screws and taps.

Brian.

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Ok The first part of the job is done the R T now has a new adjustable mark . I have always wanted a mark to make life easier when the R T is vertical But to may well ask what the %^$# is Brian up to having a mark that is adjustable.
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When I cut the cams the angular relationship between the two is 107° so I will set the new mark 107° on from the normal zero mark.
Then cut the first cam From 0° using the normal zero mark. then move 0° to the new mark and use the same set of figures to make the second cam, No mental gymnastics necessary
Just so you know what I am up to.
.Brian.
 
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Cutting the cams, It took a while but now I have the settings for the other 4 when the time comes.
Tomorrow I will reduce the shaft to fit the bearings.
Brian.
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And now it all starts to go together, but I am waiting for the screws and the taps, when I have it fastened
It will be possible to cut the valves to length and set the valve lash.
The top spring cups also have to be made.
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A little progress every day. Brian.
 

wrmiller

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Looking good Brian! I have a local acquaintance who is one of those 'if it ain't made in the USA..." types who is a nice guy, but he's always giving me lip about my 'little' import machines and keeps asking when I'm going to buy 'real machines' to make stuff with.

So I sent him a link to your build thread here (as well as one of Bill G's and Mark's build threads) and started ribbing him about 'real' machinists can make good stuff on pretty much anything. I also said something like "put up or shut up" (good naturedly of course), so now he's looking at trying his hand at one of those radial engine kits from Ageless Engines.

This could get interesting... ;)
 
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Hi Bill
There is none so blind as those that will not see
Waiting and a watching Bill
Brian.
 

kvt

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It is looking more and more like an engine
Keep up the good work.
 
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After taping the cam box fixing holes a cam follower was fitted for the exhaust and the cam box fitted, the valve was then inserted with the cam on the base circle and the amount to be removed from the stem noted and the valve stem trimmed so it was just to long, Light pressure on the head of the valve will make the cam hard to turn. so the stem was trimmed a little at a time until the cam will just turn with light pressure on the valve head. final setting will be when the engine is being assembled.
With the cam box removed the position of the hole for the valve retaining pin could be measured and a 1 mm
hole drilled in the 3 mm stem.
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I now had all the parts to assemble the exhaust.

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The lower spring plate--spring-- valve retainer-- pin--and valve are assembled.

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Then the follower.

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And the cam box.

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You can just see in this photo that the cam is off centre of the follower towards the middle of the head this is to encourage the follower to turn slightly during valve opening to even out the wear and distribute the lubricant.
Still waiting for the end mill to recess the holes for the cam box screws, and the timing pulley.
Next job the inlet.
Brian. :courage:
 
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After fitting the second valve. The assembly was mounted on the RT with two indicators to show when the valves lifted and the valve periods checked, the overlap is a little less than specified. but still ok. all other angles are to spec .
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the head was the mounted on the lathe and given a good test run then striped for examination.
the polish marks show good contact and the followers are turning as required.

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The long screws for the cylinder assembly have arrived so the whole cylinder can now be mounted on the jig.


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Brian :)
 
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At last the end mill arrived ,the fixing holes counter bored, the cam box was then set up on the mill the fins cut and edges bevelled.

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With the box fitted to the head, it was aligned on the mill, then the box removed and the head centred, so the fins could be cut in the head.
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The pulley for the belt arrived and it went straight into the shop and the side flange removed to take the
impulse disc for the ignition trigger, only then did I discover they had sent me the wrong pulley. I am awaiting there reply.
However I think that I have the bugs worked out now so I can continue with the other four cylinders.

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Brian.
 

wrmiller

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Brian! Nice work Sir, as usual. I was starting to get withdrawal symptoms from the lack up updates/progress and was starting to worry! :)
 
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Having got No1 cylinder up to spec I have returned to the replacement for the head that I damaged earlier .
At this point I decided that this will be No3 head, This head is different from No1 in that it has a screw that enters the combustion chamber opposite the spark plug when removed this allows oil that accumulates in the lower two heads when the engine is stationary to drain away. No 4 head has a similar arrangement but the Plug and drain are swapped over so the plug is on the high side of the head. On normal radial engines it is usual to remove the plugs to allow the oil to drain, but I think this puts a lot of wear and tear on the small ignition leads that are difficult to keep in place at the best of times.
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Heads 3&4
Brian.
 
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Looking Good Brian.
*G*
 
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I have been cracking on getting the missing head finished, now the four remaining heads are ready to continue fitting the valve cages, the point that I was at when I made the big c--- up and ruined a head.
But now I have the No 1 cylinder complete so I know where I am going,
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At least that is what I thought.
You see it's that cylinder it's just a tad on the heavy side, I know it's a fault of mine that I make things
just too robust, so after a good look I decide that the top deck has been made over strong to take the loads of the head and I can recut the top fin deeper by 3mm. so on to the mill it goes,
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Half an hour later all five are done, and my hands are itching. Just look at that base flange no way must it be that thick and the cylinder walls are 3.5 mm I could take them down by .5 easily while I have the slitting saw set up.
DING??? am I approaching this from the wrong end? where is the piston ring catalogue.
Now the bore is 25mm OOOh look I can get a 26mm ring, And for a bonus it's .5 smaller in section (lighter) and the piston skirt can be thinner saving weight as well.
How about the Cubes!! I an told there is no substitute for Cubes, a mighty increase from 64 cc all the way to 69cc. Hot Roding with a vengeance
Oh well back to the CAD and alter all the drawings
Brian..
 
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Looking Good Brian,
Better to over build than be caught short.... Keep it coming.
At this rate you will get yours done before Billy G does... LOL
**G**
 
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