Heavy 10 project

I found this out the same way you did. Correct, you cannot just shut the lathe off with a switch that comes after the VFD. Also, the VFD will probably not like to be turned on/off so frequently via a switch before it. However, you should check into the capabilities of your VFD. Most of the mid-grade vfd's allow for remote switching. You just connect the switch to certain jumpers and then program it accordingly. Then you can switch the load and in some cases also use a potentiometer to control speed. At that point it makes sense to put the VFD in the pedestal to avoid chips.
 
On another subject, do you think the 3/4 HP will be enough? I know horses were bigger back then, but still. I'm currently in the same situation...and an old 1/2HP motor was underpowered.
 
ScubaSteve said:
On another subject, do you think the 3/4 HP will be enough? I know horses were bigger back then, but still. I'm currently in the same situation...and an old 1/2HP motor was underpowered.
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I plan to call teco to get the proper vfd that I can controll with the switch and a dust proof enclosure as My lathe is also in my wood shop. I want to mount the vfd on the wall also. A little more research needs to be done. I think the 3/4hp will be enough as it's all in the gearing, sharp cutters and slow cuts will probably be the key also. I have a 3/4hp single phase wood bandsaw and it works great, it will make a 12" resaw cut no problem. South bend sold a lot of these machines with the 3/4 motor and they worked fine, back then when they rated a motor it wasn't over rated like today. After I get it up and running I'll let everyone know how the power is, I'm pretty confident it will be ok. A 3 phase motor has more grunt than a single phase, IMO. Plus I think the vfd will keep the power more even.
 
I am always amazed by these restoration projects and can only hope to one day tackle one like them. What product/process do you use to clean and polish the bare metal in the ways, etc?
 
macnewbie said:
I am always amazed by these restoration projects and can only hope to one day tackle one like them. What product/process do you use to clean and polish the bare metal in the ways, etc?
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My ways where in pretty good condition to start with, covered in crud and gray primer over spray. I started by just scraping with a new razor blade to get most of the crud and paint off, and then a very light sanding with some 600 grit wet or dry sand paper and some wd40 as a lube. And I do mean a very light sanding, they shined right up. I was very careful with the ways. In the beginning of this thread there was some discussion about methods for cleaning the ways and some opinions of other members, all good info.
As far as all the other bits and pieces, a wire wheel has become my best friend! Both a bench grinder with the wire wheels and a die grinder with a wire wheel. Handles and such where then sanded lightly with 220 and then 320 paper before buffing with emory buffing compound. The tail stock handle was very rusty and covered with paint, I had it glass beaded and then I sanded and buffed it. All the screws and fasteners where just wire wheeled to clean up and remove rust and paint.
 
Went shopping for a serpintine belt today, auto zone had them at a good price but they seemed very hard and plasticky...is that a word...LOL. I then went to carquest a few doors down and got their brand belt made by gates, 7 rib and 1" wide x 73 1/5 inch long. This should give me plenty of extra for the splice, cost $31.00 and some change. I probably could find it for less but I did not want to spend a ton of time looking to save a few dollars. I think I am going to try a loctite brand rubberized and flexible super glue, gotta find that. I'll post pics of how I do the splice when I do it.
Dealers equipment called me back on the vfd today and answered my questions on that. Being that my lathe is also in my wood shop dust can be a problem, they have a waterproof vfd with push button variable speed and remote switching control so I can use the original drum switch, rated for 1hp, my lathe is 3/4hp so it's plenty. $215.00 for 110 v single phase input and 220 3 phase out put. Model fm50-101-n4. So I'll get the belt done and then order the vfd, I'm so close to fireing this thing up!
 
ScubaSteve said:
Check this out: http://www.factorymation.com/Products/FM50_115V/FM50-101-C.html

It's $130 and has remote switching....no need to pay extra to get a waterproof VFD...that's probably for washdown situations. You'll find that they all recommend some sort of enclosure with ventilation...even the waterproof ones.
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steve


I was reading the specs on that drive and it is changing output voltage not output frequency, i think that would reduce power at lower speeds. when you go to their next higher priced unit it is changing frequency. i may have missed something but if thats true its not a good choice for a lathe that will be running at low speeds
steve
 
Scuba and Jumps, thank you for your feed back, it is appreciated. I called dealers industrial equipment and asked a lot of questions about the vfd, this is one area that I do not want to cheap out. I explained that I wanted a vfd that I could control with my drum switch, and that it would be in a dusty environment due to the fact that the lathe is in my wood shop, the fm50-101-n4 fits all my needs, it is esentially a fm50-101-c but in a nema4 enclosure, and has push button variable speed too. He said it did not need any other enclosure as it was a waterproof enclosed unit and was the model he recommended for a dusty environment. If I wanted to I could add a remote pot for a dial type variable speed if I wanted to, but I think the up/down push button will be fine. When I am doing wood work in my shop the lathe will be covered. Now I know I could make my own enclosure, and probably save a couple of bucks, but my time is stretched pretty thin these days. So a unit that is pretty much complete with a dust proof enclosure that just needs to be wired and programed is what I am looking for at this time. The extra expense is minor compared to the time it will save me. Also I thought about warranty if the need ever occured. Any thoughts on my explanation?
 
jumps4 said:
steve
I was reading the specs on that drive and it is changing output voltage not output frequency, i think that would reduce power at lower speeds. when you go to their next higher priced unit it is changing frequency. i may have missed something but if thats true its not a good choice for a lathe that will be running at low speeds
steve
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Hi Steve, it was easy to miss the spec, but the output Frequency is controllable from 1-120Hz. Took a while to find the info. It would be fine for a lathe.

Regards, RossG
radial1951
 
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