Heavy 10 project

Scuba and Jumps, thank you for your feed back, it is appreciated....Any thoughts on my explanation?

It's definitely your decision to make, and since this would be probably one of the most important components, it makes sense not to cheap out. Good on ya for getting a 1 hp vfd...3 phase motors are cheap and it gives you room to upgrade if you want.

I've used the GS1 class of drives from AutomationDirect.com and had really good results...they are pretty much equivalent to the TECO's. I guess if "waterproof" is equal to not needing an enclosure, then that sounds like a good deal. Enclosures can get expensive (they recommend a lot of internal space for heat dissipation) so if not needed then the extra $50 might be worth it for a drive like this.
 
Hi Steve, it was easy to miss the spec, but the output Frequency is controllable from 1-120Hz. Took a while to find the info. It would be fine for a lathe.

Regards, RossG
radial1951

oh good, on all the other drives it was easy to find in the specs
yes that would work fine on a lathe, you dont need a lot of overdrive anyway
this is too nice of a build for any mistakes, ok were back on track lol
steve
 
Well I picked up a gates k070 series belt and layed it on the pully, seems a little narrow so I am going to exchange it for a gates k080 series instead, they are just a little wider. Like Steve said, now is not the time to cheap out, do it right. I will post pics of the belt making when I get the right width.
 
belt-001.jpg belt-002.jpg belt-003.jpg belt-007.jpg belt-008.jpg It's been awhile since I updated the lathe project. My computer is on it's last leg and I have ordered a new one, which means there went my vfd money. So I worked on the belt instead. I purchased a gates serpentine belt, and some glue that sounded like great stuff when you read the package so I thought I would give it a try. Don't waste your money, didn't stick at all and I followed the instructions very carefully. I even roughed up the belt with some sandpaper and cleaned it with acetone. So off to the hardware store I went, tried the newest supper glue, same story, no sticky! I could pull it apart. I even tried an accelerator, no luck I tried a thin supper glue that I use for wood working, stuck better but it still pulled apart. I think this belt has a high silicone content to it as I could just peel the ca supper glue off.
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belt-009.jpg belt-010.jpg belt-011.jpg I laid a plastic bag under the belt when glueing to keep the pullys clean and the glue stuck to the bag! But not the belt very well. I tried a thin ca that I use in my wood working and I thought I had it till I rolled the belt over to clean it, cleaned up nice, rolled it over and it seperated. Last pick is the thin ca.
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So now I'm totally dissapointed and a little ****** off. I decided to just stich it old school but with a twist. Back to the hardware store, found some braided picture hanging wire, rated at 30lb. If it would accept solder I thought this could work, it fit in the grooves of the belt nice too. So I drilled some 1/16" holes 3/8" from the end and in the center of each rip. I tinned the end of the wire to see if it would accept solder and it did. tinning the end would keep it from unraveling as I fished it through the holes. As you can see it lays in the grooves nice, I do not think they will make any noice or very little if any.belt-012.jpg belt-013.jpg belt-014.jpg belt-015.jpg
 
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belt-016.jpg belt-017.jpg And here's how it looks from the top side. I soldered the 2 ends of the wires together so they should never come apart. This was so easy I will never mess around with trying to glue a belt again. How long will it hold up? We'll see, I'll keep you all informed after I get it powered up. It does track true by hand though, and tensioned up nice too.
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You could also use Kevlar string instead of wire, not so thick and more similar to the composition of the belt itself. Super strong.

But if the wire works well without thumping why worry?
 
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