Help Me Get Shapering!

I ended up finding and buying a yoke and block on eBay for around $45. If the new parts are better than my old ones I can just do a swap, otherwise this will give me the luxury of using the shaper to make and fit a block for the new yoke, then I can do a simple swap. It's worth the $45 to simplify this whole process. Once the parts are made and fit to each other I can do the swap in an afternoon instead of spacing it out over several days/weeks.
 
frugalguido said:
Depending on the equipment available, I would make up a dummy block to the biggest dimension and use it as a gage or use inside mics, you just have to be sure to keep the alignments right. I scraped mine, which as a side benefit added some areas to let the lube hang.
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The dummy block sounds like a good option. But would it have to be a dummy? Could I just make the final finished block to the largest size and scrape, file, stone the yoke to fit?
 
Weldo said:
I ended up finding and buying a yoke and block on eBay for around $45. If the new parts are better than my old ones I can just do a swap, otherwise this will give me the luxury of using the shaper to make and fit a block for the new yoke, then I can do a simple swap. It's worth the $45 to simplify this whole process. Once the parts are made and fit to each other I can do the swap in an afternoon instead of spacing it out over several days/weeks.
Click to expand...
Good news and more options!
 
Weldo said:
The dummy block sounds like a good option. But would it have to be a dummy? Could I just make the final finished block to the largest size and scrape, file, stone the yoke to fit?
Click to expand...
You could, but what happens if you goof and make the yoke too big or you have to make the yoke bigger to correct the alignments? Once you get the yoke right then make the block to fit the yoke.
 
Yea, that sounds more logical. A gauge block could be whipped out on the shaper without too much effort.

so lemme ask you this. If it comes down to just needing to remove a very small amount from the yoke, like just a couple thousandths, I know the benefits of scraping, but can it be easily picked up by an amateur? What kind of equipment investment is there?

I wouldn’t mind learning this skill as I know it can be used in many places around the shop.
 
I think so, there is a lot of info on it out there, i would highly recommend a carbide scraper though, I made mine, less sharping during use. The good news is that you are doing a really small area.
 
Can I ask you guys what size belts you’re running on your machines? I’m having a hard time getting smooth clutch engagement.

I was running 1/2” link belts for both but the step pulley belt was rubbing the motor. Calculations said I needed a 31.25” belt for the step pulleys so I got a 4L315 regular v belt. It doesn’t rub the motor anymore but when I engage the lever the motor belt was slipping on the motor pulley.

So I take another link out of the motor belt to shrink it. Now it runs like it should but the clutch is very grabby. Even when disengaged the motor belt has enough grab to turn the counter shaft.

The part number in the manual for the motor belt is L3 - 126. Does that indicate that the belts should be 3/8”? 3L?
 
I'll check the sizes, I think part of the problem is your type of belt, you need regular belts.
 
Hey, @frugalguido. I'm looking into buying a chunk of material for a new sliding block. If I recall, you used brass? Would bronze be a good choice?

There's some nice pieces on eBay right now.
 
IMO bronze would be a better bet. I think you can still find the oil impregnated bronze in bar stock, but it is a little tougher to find.
 
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