Holy cow, my PM1236 shipped!

Well, that is great news, how I am happy again. I thought I was going crazy.

I am going to ditch the lead screw covers when I do the change over. They really reduces the carriage travel, its more of an issue at the head end when using a collet. Not so much an issue with a chuck as it sticks out farther.


Craig
 
Awesome, great to hear! Knowing Matt, I had no doubt in my mind that he would take care of this.
 
+1 on the great CS by Matt and Nicole!! They'll get everything squared away in short order I'm sure. Not a whole lot of companies u can say that about these days. Thanks ray and QMT.

Richard
 
Awesome! PM/Matt comes through again. Glad to hear the issue was sorted out and it really is not that big of a deal to remove lead screws and dials/handles. I have had our Jet at work apart to replace parts a few times. Unfortunately our work lathe has been crashed more times than I care to mention by some of our maintenance mechanics simply not paying attention to what they were doing.

Mike.
 
zmotorsports said:
Awesome! PM/Matt comes through again. Glad to hear the issue was sorted out and it really is not that big of a deal to remove lead screws and dials/handles. I have had our Jet at work apart to replace parts a few times. Unfortunately our work lathe has been crashed more times than I care to mention by some of our maintenance mechanics simply not paying attention to what they were doing.

Mike.
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Everyone has a different tolerance to taking things apart but most of us here are pretty handy with a wrench... Just for grins, I took my cross-slide and compound screws out and back in -and timed myself. 14 minutes and that included the time it took for me to break-up a fight between Sasha the pitbull and Linus the Chihuahua (Linus was winning BTW). I had my leadscrew out a long time ago when I needed to use the it to test an idea I had for another contraption. -Move the carriage all the way to the right, knock-out the roll-pin on the left side, remove the metal block/bearing on the right side (two bolts) and the leadscrew slides out.

I'm not sure if the charts on these units have US conversion tables. If not, in the mean time, you'll need to make a little calculation to convert inches to millimeters (1in = 25.4mm). The headbox gears and side gears are the same on both versions of the machine and the RPMs are not impacted by this. You'll need to cut US threads the same way you normally cut metric threads though...

Go ahead and use the machines all you want. They are fine and were checked just like all the other machines.

FWIW, the US conversion model of this lathe is in the vast minority of all the machines produced by the factory. Most equipment they make is not bound to the US and ships as metric. It's also not uncommon for Matt to get special-order metric machines but most of the time, he does the conversion locally.

Ray
 
Aawww c'mon America! It's time to metricate! Get with the program already! :lmao::jester:

Seriously, I think you got a good deal to now be able to do both Imperial and Metric. That's good customer service.
 
Rapscallion said:
Aawww c'mon America! It's time to metricate! Get with the program already! :lmao::jester:

Seriously, I think you got a good deal to now be able to do both Imperial and Metric. That's good customer service.
Click to expand...

No! I'm old and learned 'Mercan (George Bush reference:biggrin:) Too late for me and many others here as well I'd think. :whiteflag:
 
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