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OakRidgeGuy

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Axis-Nema-23-stepper-motor-425-oz-115MM-3-0A-Driver-DM542A-256MRIC-CNC-KIT-/190590663828?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6016bc94

Since the description for the breakout board that comes with the kit does not state a voltage restriction. It does have opto-couplers in it.. which in hence would reduce the need for the UC100. I mean, the only reference I see any where is the 18-50 VDC, with no reference to limit or restriction on the breakout board..

So I am thinking,,, run with this one.. it has on the 5v, grn, grn, VDD post all together.. remember I am dum when it comes to this stuff.. but I am trying to make sense of it all.
 

jumps4

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that breakout board requires a 5v power supply, it does not have its own. thats is a bad chinese translation
and it will barely run at 25000hz it is junk, i tried it on my 9x20 lathe cnc conversion and it would not run it fast enough.
steve
 

OakRidgeGuy

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I picked this up at the scrap house just a bit ago.. it is brand spankin new, was still in the wrapper. Got it for .80 cents

SANY0423_zpsb6847fde.jpg

SANY0423_zpsb6847fde.jpg
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Well i scarfed all the wire from that power supply that I will not be using.. going to install the power plug reciever later. I will then wire from the power plug to the on off switch then from the switch to where it would go into the 48v power supply.

I still need to get some four pin connectors so that I can hard wire the contollers for the motors.. Since the controller box will be down low, I think that I will run the motor controller wires out the top of the box. This way if I have to move anything, I will not have to disconnect the wires from the controllers, just unplug them and move what I have to move.

For the 5v wires I am using Red. For the Direction wires, yellow, for the main power Black is the load and white is nutural. Green is being used as the ground. I am also using Black as the load from the 48v + side of the power supply to the controllers and white will be the the neg side.

Pins 2-7 are wired as per what Steve said to do.. the controllers have had the dip switches set as he instructed.

Except for waiting for the power supply ( I had to order another one, the first one is the wrong one), which should be here on or before the 24th and some connectors and shrink wrap, it appears that this thing is very close to getting it wired all up. I still have to have the motor side of the couplers enlarged to fit the shaft on the stepper motor.


Oh and that female/female plug hasn't got here yet either.
 
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Hawkeye

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I take it that's a computer power supply. It would be a good idea to solder a 1000 ohm resistor across the outputs of any voltage channels you aren't using. It isn't recommended to power one of those up without a load connected. If allowed to run open-circuit, it might go to an over-voltage state and kill it's own circuitry. The resistors will give it just enough load to prevent that.

Just for reference, a 1000 ohm resistor will draw a current of 1/1000th of the voltage for that channel. A 12V output will flow 12 mA through that resistance.
 

OakRidgeGuy

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I took it apart.. using the wires and the plug that was in it.. all that is left is the box, which Iwill keep and the board with the all the other stuff on it..
 

cjsamples

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Looks like a pretty good score. .80 cents is a bargain. Now........what you need to know. Usually these power supplies require some kind of feedback form the motherboard to make it turn on. When you switch on your computer you hit the switch in the front, that button ain't connected directly to the power supply. There are a few good tutorials on youtube and all across the net on how to make them work as a power supply for non-computer uses. I ran across this kids site before and he does a pretty good job explaining what all is going on and what to do.
http://jumperone.com/2011/06/atx-power-supply-tutorial/

He has some other cool videos as well. Youtube also has some good ones and I bet there is a thread on the zone on doing it as well.

I got lucky on my router and it had a power supply board that gave me my 12, 5, and ground on four different circuits, so I have plenty of places to pull from.

Good luck on the conversion.
Chris
 

Tony Wells

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On typical ATX power supplies, there is a green wire in the Molex connector to the motherboard. Any of the black wires are grounded. If you jump from the green to ground, the PS will come on, but as Hawkeye says, you should load it on the outputs you are not using. If you don't have a 1K resistor floating around, you can use a 12 volt automotive light on the 12 volt output, and do the same thing.
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Guys, some of the stuff your saying is over my head.. some of it I kinda understand.. But what I did do was to desolder all of the wires out of the board and used them for the wiring of the controllers to the breakout board.

As for the power recepticale, I am going to install it in the tower and will tie it in between the power input from the wall and the power supply that I will be installing.. the main reason that I had gotten it was for the power plug in that is on the box. Then noticed it said 5v output in DC, which I am needing. But I don't know enough to really make it work, so instead, I will find me a 115v to 5v converter and install that instead.
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Ok, I had bought a switch just like MGP had in his thread on his X2 thread. I installed a power plug to accept a power cord from the wall. I wired it like this.

Pin 1: From the switch to the 48v power supply.
Pin 2: From the power plug to the on/off switch.
Pin 3: From the neutral of the power plug to the on/off switch, then to the neutral of the 48v power supply.

Installed a 5 inch cooling fan. It is a 115vac fan and is a solid metal case instead of a plastic case..

The original power supply that Steve suggested to get arrived yesterday, totally damaged. The seller has refused to reemburse the cost, it is unusable. So now I will have to file a claim. It is a good thing that I had ordered another one.. we found out that the first one that I ordered is, ummmm, the wrong one. I was going to keep it for a future project.

SANY0429_zpse6a3113a.jpg

SANY0429_zpse6a3113a.jpg
 

OakRidgeGuy

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I forgot to add that the female to female connector arrived yesterday. One side fits good, the other side doesn't seem to want to fit at all..
 

Blackhawk

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if you cant get it to work and this is what you need pm me and i will send it to you. I have 3 and only need two. it was also kind of a tight fit bet it worked.

Lanham





photo.JPG

photo.JPG
 

jumps4

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if your having trouble fitting it to the breakout board loosen the bolts that hold the metal shield and try again
steve
 

OakRidgeGuy

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I think that I have it fixed now.. the one side fit the breakout board perfectly Steve, it was the other side.. I had to take a file to get it to fit something.. I believe that it will work now..

On another note, I found a 6 foot USB cable at WalMart this evening.. I guess I will go that route for the 5v power supply.

Doc
 

Hawkeye

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Looks like shipping isn't his strong suite. I hope your new supply arrives soon.

What kind of damage is there on the 'spare'? If it isn't totally mangled, it might not be too hard to get it ready for the storage shelf.
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Well the other one that I have ordered has not arrived yet.. originally, it is due on or before the 24th, but I would say that it will arrive sometime after Christmas.. I hope that it will arrive intact.

As for the one that I recieved damaged, not sure if anything on the inside is really damaged yet, but the case was bent pretty good. But if that is all that is wrong with it, might be able to fix that problem.. I am going to save it for the mill project when I am ready for that, which hopefully will be something next spring.

On another note, I still have to order a UC100, I keep forgetting that thing.. I need to check what I have left on the card for this project and see if I can go ahead and order it. They run 129.00
 

jumps4

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the usb 5v will work fine doc, your not really powering anything ... but just sensing voltage
make sure you use a volt/ohm meter to check everything before powering up
steve
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Steve,

Will do.. still waiting on the other power supply to arrive.. hopefully today or on Monday. Just will have to wait and see.

Doc
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Here is what I have done so far. Just for your info, I made a note inside the case too, white is neutral.. black is hot from the outlet, switch an to the power supply and on the 48v side of the power supply to the motor controllers.


SANY0430_zpsd9fb1964.jpg

SANY0430_zpsd9fb1964.jpg
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Ok Steve,

I presume that the outer ground wire that is on the 18/4 shielded wire, that it will be connected to the common ground on the cassey of the box. Is that correct?

Doc
 

jumps4

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yes that is the shield wire and should connect only at one end to the case equipment ground. dont hook it up on both ends, I have read that causes a grounding problem or interference.
doc the wiring from the breakout to the controlers is supposed to be shielded cable. it is the low voltage signals and can be affected by cross induction. use the shield wire on all the low voltage you can because the 110v-ac is inside the same case. some of these controllers see very low voltages as step or direction signals
steve
 
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OakRidgeGuy

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Ten Four! And I presume correctly that the Blk wire will go to A+, Grn to A-, Red to B+ and Blu(Wht) to the B-..

Doc
 

jumps4

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yes that is right. the shield wire from the motor wires connects to your enclosure since your not using plugs and connectors.
just solder a jumper between all the shield wires and ground it to the case.
steve
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Good news.. the new power supply arrived today! Just need one more item, the UC100.
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Ok.. may I presume that the E-Stop switch will be between the on/off switch and the power supply or will it be between the power supply and the power to the motor controllers?

Also, will the ground on the breakout board be grounded to the frame or to something else?
 

Hawkeye

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The estop switch is actually a low-voltage input to Mach3 that tells the computer to shut things down. On my control board, it connects to a pair of pins on a 9-pin connector. The board then sends that info to the computer on the 'printer' cable that connects the two together.

In Mach3, this input can be configured to either normally open or normally closed by setting Active High or Active Low for the pin number.
 

jumps4

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like hawkeye said hook estop from pin 10 on your breakout board and ground on the normally closed terminals
steve
 
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