I ordered a PM-940M-PDF

[Dan_S]

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356

 

[tmarks11]

To clean the tube I used one of these.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-P...oven-Quick-Strip-Disc-PNW045STRB01G/202830907

I like the flap disks better. They last longer and are cheaper.

Here is where I buy them from; good place to do business with:
http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/abrasives/coated-abrasives-flap-discs

A less aggressive wheel that will still last longer than the non-woven discs is a non-woven flap disk:
http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/abrasives/non-woven-abrasives-surface-conditioning-flap-discs

 

[Dan_S]

A less aggressive wheel that will still last longer than the non-woven discs is a non-woven flap disk:
http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/abrasives/non-woven-abrasives-surface-conditioning-flap-discs

I'm going to have to try these next time, as they are just over half what I paid locally.

 

[Dan_S]

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356

 

[wrmiller]

I have the same problem and just use the front slot. I can still reach the entire table on the RT.

 

[Dan_S]

Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

View attachment 253356

 

[wrmiller]

I had to make a new drawbar bushing recently because I replaced the factory cast drawbar with some threaded 4140 which has a slightly smaller diameter. The factory bushing was looser than I would like, and I'm hoping that the new bushing keeping the drawbar closer to the spindle axis might mitigate my slight vibration at spindle speeds above 4200 rpm.

I noticed your double nut arrangement on top of the drawbar and I was wondering if they ever work loose? I used a grade 5 rod coupling nut that I red loctited on. Probably overkill, but it shouldn't come loose. Hopefully.

 

[Muskt]

I had similar dealings with my 932PDF.
Created a bushing that fits nicely.
Snapped the roll pin that was in the upper nut.
Removed lower nut completely.
Shortened the drawbar so that it fit nicely with all my R8 devices.
Cut a bit of relief on the top of the nut.
Tigged the nut to the drawbar with Weldmold 880 (Super nice filler rod--although difficult to locate and very pricey).
Game Over!!

Jerry in Delaware

 

[Dan_S]

I noticed your double nut arrangement on top of the drawbar and I was wondering if they ever work loose? I used a grade 5 rod coupling nut that I red loctited on. Probably overkill, but it shouldn't come loose. Hopefully.

The upper nut is pinned, and it's in there pretty tight, it would probably take a punch and a hammer to get it out. It came that way from the factory, I assume to prevent someone from accidentally completely unscrewing the flange nut and letting the drawbar fall to the table.

 

[wrmiller]

I had similar dealings with my 932PDF.
Created a bushing that fits nicely.
Snapped the roll pin that was in the upper nut.
Removed lower nut completely.
Shortened the drawbar so that it fit nicely with all my R8 devices.
Cut a bit of relief on the top of the nut.
Tigged the nut to the drawbar with Weldmold 880 (Super nice filler rod--although difficult to locate and very pricey).
Game Over!!

Jerry in Delaware

Well, that likely won't come apart!

In my own defense, I don't have welding capability so that wasn't an option.