Is it possible to clean rotor discs

Thanks a lot will definitely use them. For rockauto I had good experience but with parts from ram1500 did not use it for Subaru my friend who had one told me to get only Subaru parts from Subaru. I found the 50$ each but was from autozone
I've done ok with Rock Auto for some things, but not Subaru brake pads or rotors. Lets just say the rotors and pads aren't quite OEM quality, nor are the simple little things there, that you may need, like properly sized threaded holes in the right places, should you need to jack off the rotor. Yeah, that was fun, hammering off a stuck rotor.

$60 for an OEM rotor vs $50 for a suspect rotor, I'm going to take the OEM every time. Because that $50 part won't quite fit and will cost you at least $10 in labor and aggravation to get it to work.
 
So many brake rotors lathes for sale… there has to be a way to repurpose then for something else…

On topic - ditto on what @WobblyHand said.

I welded an old scissor jack on top of an F250 rotor then a 3" piece of U channel on top of the jack. It is by far the best shooting rest I have ever used.

p.s. I can also change a tire with my shooting rest! I bet you can't do that with a fancy $200 rest!

Oh, sorry... brake rotor LATHE!
 
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Rust on the rotors?


Just drive it and apply brakes, that should clean it off well.

Pull a wheel and mic the thickness, if greater than the value cast in the rotor. Get a rattle can of cold galvanize and paint everything the pads do not touch.

Period.

Rust on a rotor is NOT a failure mode, do you have inspection "ONLY" places?

Here in CA they learned the typical service place coukd easily cheat on visual parts of inspection to upsell stuff.

Inspection only places cannot do repairs, so less likely to mess with you.

ODBII prevents most of it now.

If your rotors are not cracked, are smooth and above minimum thickness they are fine.

Challenge the inspector to first show the exact fault, then ask him to show the code that it violates.



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I've welded a plate and some black iron pipe on top of some old brake rotors to make some low cost tweeter stands. A little paint and they don't look too bad.

But on topic, like @tq60 says, mic the rotor, if you got the thickness, you don't have to replace the rotors for that. A little rust just comes off with braking, if the rotor isn't locked. That can happen if you have a car outdoors that you don't drive much. Water can splash on the rotors and rust enough that the wheels won't turn. Deep scoring can be an issue, though, but I haven't run into that.

If you fail an inspection, it is your right to ask to be shown the faults, and what code that the code violates. I used to occasionally get failed inspections (mostly for a legitimate reason) but I always made sure I knew the fault and what the violation was before leaving. That way I could fix the problem in the most cost effective manner.
 
Now days it’s not really worth trying to resurface a rotor. They are cheap in comparison. Not to mention, the more you take off to resurface the thinner they are and as a result they warp even faster.
 
Rust on the rotors?


Just drive it and apply brakes, that should clean it off well.

Pull a wheel and mic the thickness, if greater than the value cast in the rotor. Get a rattle can of cold galvanize and paint everything the pads do not touch.

Period.

Rust on a rotor is NOT a failure mode, do you have inspection "ONLY" places?

Here in CA they learned the typical service place coukd easily cheat on visual parts of inspection to upsell stuff.

Inspection only places cannot do repairs, so less likely to mess with you.

ODBII prevents most of it now.

If your rotors are not cracked, are smooth and above minimum thickness they are fine.

Challenge the inspector to first show the exact fault, then ask him to show the code that it violates.



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Good point, but then again might have to go to that place again
 
Opened the front rotor now it’s brand new.
 

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Or is that the replacement? Looks crusty for new. But as good as it gets for used. Unless there's a crack, I'd run it.
 
Now days it’s not really worth trying to resurface a rotor. They are cheap in comparison. Not to mention, the more you take off to resurface the thinner they are and as a result they warp even faster.
Cheap rotors are just that; cheap. Next time I do disc brakes I'm going to try the coated ones. A neighbor used them on his Impala. 2 years and holding up fine.
Good point, but then again might have to go to that place again
Rust embedded in your was-new brake pads?
 
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