Is it possible to clean rotor discs

Cripes. 8 pages of evaluating/replacing brake pads and rotors. SMH.

EDIT: Most rotors warp because the bone knobs in the shops put them on with air wrenches and don't follow the torquing pattern. Being coated has zero effect on whether they are going to warp or not.
 
7milesup said:
Cripes. 8 pages of evaluating/replacing brake pads and rotors. SMH.

EDIT: Most rotors warp because the bone knobs in the shops put them on with air wrenches and don't follow the torquing pattern. Being coated has zero effect on whether they are going to warp or not.
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I think you missed the point. This thread started out by a someone getting a failed inspection for brakes, and being told that they needed to replace all their brakes, but based on the evidence, a full expensive brake job is not needed. We were just trying to help the OP assess the problem. It's pretty apparent he knows how to do the replacement. He was flimflammed, by a less than honest inspector, IMHO.
 
WobblyHand said:
How do you figure? That means everyone in the northeast would have this problem, and that's not the case. I've never had warped rotors, nor have I had coated rotors.

What you are saying doesn't make sense to me. Do you have supporting information to back up your assertions? Maybe I can learn something.
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I live in the Rust Belt, where instead of scraping the snow off the pavement, they spread salt. (Guess they figure we will buy cars more often). I have noted the accumulation of rust in the middle fins in rotors. Thought about painting them, but figured the paint would just burn off from friction heat. Recently bought some Wool-Wax for the frame and underside of my new-to-me 4Runner. Prepped some places where rust was starting with Loctite Extend, (turns rust to black oxide which does not grow), prior to applying Wool-Wax, (Fluid Film). Thought about using the Extend on the rotors’ fins, as I have experienced a lot of rusty rotors. Not seen warpage due to rust.
 
FOMOGO said:
Might seem obvious, but when replacing pads/rotors keep an eye on the master cylinder level as it will rise with each piston you compress. I use a turkey baster to remove excess, and it adds a little zip to the turkey. Mike
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I did passe the inspection at a Midas garage. They let me know the rear pads had 4mm in them and in 4-6 month it would be tI’m e to change them “ I did not bother changing them as I wanted to find an inspection garage open”. Otherwise the car was good. So I learned a moral these two days, trust no one and don’t buy spare parts without verifying. I bough ~560$ part + fuel and used 60$ worth of parts. It could have been worse and pay 850$ I still have a hole of ~500$. Consolation thought is if the Subaru makes it to 300k miles I get the disc rotor change for free :) so far not burning oil so finger crossed
 
WobblyHand said:
I think you missed the point. This thread started out by a someone getting a failed inspection for brakes, and being told that they needed to replace all their brakes, but based on the evidence, a full expensive brake job is not needed. We were just trying to help the OP assess the problem. It's pretty apparent he knows how to do the replacement. He was flimflammed, by a less than honest inspector, IMHO.
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Still I will try to rig something to clean the rotors. As soon as the mill get delivered I Will level the spare rotor using the machined inner part and measure the flatness with the dial indicator. Some nice gentlemen’s here shared their thought and I want try and found out some details. Will post back when I will do so.

i am very lucky to have joined such a nice community of great people from all around the world. Thanks a lot guys.

=Tim
 
I’m a General Motors technician and that’s what the manufacturer of these vehicle are saying is the root cause to comebacks for warped rotors. They have gone as far as to send out accuturn on vehicle lathes partially due to this. Also instructed us to clean the hub flanges with abrasives to ensure that there’s No contamination between the hat of the rotor and the hub flange. Makes a ton of sense if you think about it. If a rotor begins with over two thou runout it’s not gonna get any better now is it? Theees tons of information supporting this if you search for it. Not to mention the support of one of the largest automakers in the world. Let’s hear your take, since you obviously have more training and hands on experience than a General Motors Master and world class technician
 
I have turned a rotor on my lathe, it had the minimum allowable thickness stamped into it. I had a pad (friction material) break loose leaving the metal plate which left grooves in the face of the rotor and the heat left it slightly warped. I inspected the rotor when I removed it took the mic to it then looked in the garage at the lathe and thought I can fix this..... It works fine....
 
Pevehouse said:
Not to mention the support of one of the largest automakers in the world. Let’s hear your take, since you obviously have more training and hands on experience than a General Motors Master and world class technician
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If it had not been for the US government (Not politics, just fact) back in 2008 and 2009 GM would have had more in common with AMC and Studebaker than with Ford and Dodge. Even with that said, they had to close several of their brads and a huge number of their dealers. Say what you will but GM isn't the most awesome thing on the road, Ford weathered the downturn without any government assistance and Fiat say promise in Chrysler and bought them paying back Their Government loans.
 
Pevehouse said:
Also instructed us to clean the hub flanges with abrasives to ensure that there’s No contamination between the hat of the rotor and the hub flange.
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That I would agree with. The mounting surfaces need to be clean. Can't get good fit and low run out with crud between the surfaces. Thought that was common knowledge, at least for anyone doing mechanical work.

Over torquing, might cause trouble too, especially with high grade bolts or studs. I don't use air guns for this kind of work. I torque to spec whenever possible. Guys in a shop may take short cuts and torque the daylights out of things. We have all seen that.

No disrespect meant to you or your training. It seemed odd to me that coatings would really matter. What matters are clean, smooth surfaces for the mating assemblies. If GM uses coatings, that's good. Coatings would help parts stay rust free. But coatings don't last forever, at least in the northeast. And not all manufacturers may employ the same strategies.
 
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