Is it possible to clean rotor discs

WobblyHand said:
Pad on the left is cracked and the material looks tapered. Zoom into the picture, it is pretty obvious. The crack might be to the wear limit. If I were the inspector I would flag that. Can't have crumbling pads. You could have a bunch of compound break off and lose quite a bit of braking. Safety hazard. Replace those pads.

The taper might be real as well. One or more of your caliper pins is sticking. Pull the pins and make sure they are smooth. If you can't clean them up, get some new ones. Then reinstall the pins with high temp grease and make sure the caliper can move smoothly on the pins.
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i will change it. I thing I put it in the audio in the video
 
Just for fun the rear right side. They look good to me. Are the original ones.
 

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I'd file a complaint about the inspection facility. They were clearly trying to extract dollars for unnecessary repairs.
There may be history of them doing this to unsuspecting folks.
 
Back in the old days I could throw them up onto the Blanchard grinder to clean them up . Today , I change the rotors when I do the pads . The slotted HP set for the F250 was about $300 total and took less than 3 hrs . Only trouble I have is I can no longer lift the wheels with tires up onto the lugs . I run 37s .
 
Might seem obvious, but when replacing pads/rotors keep an eye on the master cylinder level as it will rise with each piston you compress. I use a turkey baster to remove excess, and it adds a little zip to the turkey. Mike
 
DavidR8 said:
I'd file a complaint about the inspection facility. They were clearly trying to extract dollars for unnecessary repairs.
There may be history of them doing this to unsuspecting folks.
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Unless there's a cracked pad we can't see, or the back of the rotor has issues, or the caliper pins are frozen, I totally agree. The rotors and pads don't look too bad, considering you live in the Northeast.

For the most part my dealer provides photographic evidence of an issue, found at a state inspection, or simply when it is brought in. Sometimes I disagree with their solution, but at least I know what the issue is. Once I was told I had to replace my headlights because they had gotten cloudy. I respectfully disagreed and came back after 30 minutes. I used some plastic polish and the headlights were clear again.

If nothing else, I'd bring my business elsewhere. It appears from the evidence shown (and we don't have all the evidence, just the few pictures from you) that they are claiming all your brakes aren't good, when in fact, all we can see is one bad pad. That's still an inspection fail, but a couple of sets of pads is cheaper than a full brake job.
 
You've got two things going on here.

First, If you were failed for a state inspection for the rotors being rusted, you by all rights need to speak with a DMV inspector. (Or whatever you call them there DOT? AOT? Maybe the state police do it there?). I hadn't looked when I replied previously, but provided that the inside looks the same as the outside, those rotors do not fail. Going to another shop is what "some" people do. Most just get the work done at wherever the car landed for it's inspection. If nobody calls out a bad inspection to the DMV, nothing will happen. The front desk at the shop will ALWAYS be VERY concerned, and glad to take your complaint.... But if you want something done about crooked and unfairly leveraged upsells, you have to go not to the inspection mechanic's boss, but the folks who issue the credentials to the technician to perform these inspections.

Second, you've got pad/caliper issues. Stuck caliper slides, pads not sliding freely in the lands, rust jacking under the hardware... You need a proper going through of the brakes. The calipers and caliper brackets cleaned back to funcitonal, new pads (that taper is wedging the brake pistons crooked...), which means that all of them need to come to apart. (If the calipers are in good order, they need not have the hose removed...) But all of the rest will be apart and loose. And sadly, if you're taking it to have that done, (Which you or someone need to, even if it passes...), you'll have to do the math, but it might make the most sense to make it all new in one "labor", and give up on the last 20 or 30 percent of the rotor's life. Those are good, and working, right now... But the actual damage, the kind that they should fail for, is already in there. It's not visible yet, it can't be inspected, and it isn't affecting brakiing yet. (The dragging pads are though...).
 
The only problem with new coated rotors is that they don’t coat the most critical area, the inside of the hat. That’s where warpage begins. Rust on the hub flange ends up creating runout in the stacked components which in turn eventually leads to warped rotors again
 
Pevehouse said:
The only problem with new coated rotors is that they don’t coat the most critical area, the inside of the hat. That’s where warpage begins. Rust on the hub flange ends up creating runout in the stacked components which in turn eventually leads to warped rotors again
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How do you figure? That means everyone in the northeast would have this problem, and that's not the case. I've never had warped rotors, nor have I had coated rotors.

What you are saying doesn't make sense to me. Do you have supporting information to back up your assertions? Maybe I can learn something.
 
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