Iseki TL3200 tractor project

[cathead]

A new project followed me home the other day and the first main thing to work on was the non-functional alternator.
I took the alternator apart and tested the diodes and the field coil and all that tested out fine. The easiest repair I
could devise was to use a 35 amp alternator from an old Nissan Sentra. The belt on the Nissan was a flat belt
design but good enough to test the alternator on the tractor. It turned out to work fine. The only things left to do
were to machine a pulley to fit the new alternator and make some wiring adapters to hook up the regulator wires.
So, it's all done now and working just fine with almost 14 volts reading on a volt meter with the engine running.

This tractor is fairly old but is 4 wheel drive with power steering with a loader attached that works fine after
reworking the bucket that was abused and welded on apparently to attach a boom on it or something. So
the project continues as I do maintenance, change fluids and work on various things that need attention. The black spot in the bucket is where I cut out a 7x8 inch piece of steel and fitted in and welded in a new replacement piece. I must say I was impressed with
my Dewalt angle grinder with 4.5 inch cut off blade that made easy work out of removing the damaged area.
Here's the replacement alternator installed on the tractor with home made pulley. The old alternator needs a regulator I think so will keep it
around and hopefully replace the regulator assembly.


The rear tires on the tractor are really badly weather checked so not sure what to do about that other than replace them. Maybe I will run it till
one fails and deal with it then. Today I will be looking at the injection pump on the Isuzu engine to determine why the engine starts easily but
quits when the key is dropped. There is a solenoid connected to a spool valve that is likely causing the problem. It runs like a clock once it does
get running.

 

[cathead]

Yesterday I found time to work on the solenoid/spool valve assembly on the injection pump.
After a little disassembly and cleaning, it now works properly and the engine starts and runs
as it is supposed to. From what I was able to tell, the manual knob on the spool valve has
two positions and was stuck in the priming mode. So, in order to prime and get the air out of the
pump, the manual knob is supposed to be in and when you want it to start and run, it needs to be out.
All the operator controls are in Japanese so all the functions had to be determined by trial and error.
Here's a photo of the injection pump:
On the far left is the manual control and farther to the right one can see the solenoid with the red wire attached. It all needs a good
cleaning as the black accretions are not easily removed. It's an older in line pump so all new to me.

It's going to snow tomorrow so will be able to test everything then. Everyone have a good day.

 

[projectnut]

For a number of years Bolens marketed several 2 wheel drive and 4 wheel drive diesel tractors made by Iseki. About the only thing they changed was the paint job. They were good machines and took a lot of abuse.

Here's a link to the spec sheet:

TractorData.com Bolens G154 tractor information

www.tractordata.com

 

[cathead]

Thanks, Projectnut for the post. This one is a TL3200 and is 4 wheel drive with power steering and a 4 cylinder
4FA1 Isuzu engine. I bought it because it has 4WD and a 3 point hitch and the power steering is nice to have
as well. The engine is 32 horsepower according to the literature.

 

[FOMOGO]

I would just run the tires. The fronts on my 1980 755 Ford are original equipment, and make yours look like new. Keep waiting for them to disintegrate, but they just keep going. Nice little tractor. Mike

 

[cathead]

When I bought the tractor, I started a maintenance book for it to keep track of pertinent details. It comes in really handy
when you want to check on engine hours or service intervals done in the past. A composition notebook is what I use
for my records. Today I replaced the oil in the front drive wheels so when it comes up again I will know exactly
when the work was done and the kind and amount of oil used. I could not find anywhere what oil to use so had to rely on my
nose to know it was EP 90 oil. I added a pint to each drive wheel so when I change that oil again I will know all I need to know.
The old oil was pretty brown but no metal flakes showed up on inspection. I'm glad I changed it and also glad to know that
the drives were not out of oil. It's a good way to keep track of things. I have about a dozen of
these notebooks, one for each piece of equipment including car, truck, motorcycles, skidsteer, etc etc etc...
Try it, it's very handy!

 

[Manual Mac]

Yes, I keep a written log of any maintenance on all cars, truck, M/C & tractor.
I also write with magic marker the hours on spin-on filters on my tractor.

 

[cathead]

The light switch on the Iseki tractor had a broken plastic nut on the electrical switch so the
switch was loose and annoying although it still was functional. I took the switch home in hopes of
finding a nut in my junk box of parts to fit the switch but no luck there. My chances of getting one
somewhere were slim so decided to try make one myself. Chances were that the threads would
be metric. My Monarch lathe is imperial but was able to thread 30 tpi so decided to try make my
own nut using a piece of scrap 4130 pipe that was pretty close to the needed inside diameter.
I had to bore out the pipe a few thousandths so the diameter matched the inside diameter of
the threads on the switch. The new nut was cut quite thin as there wasn't much chance of
exactly fitting the metric threads on the switch. Anyway, it worked out well enough so expect
I can reinstall the switch this afternoon. A wider nut would be more likely to bind is the reason
it was cut so thin.

I was able to find one washer that would work and also reworked a lock washer by hammering it flat
and grinding the ID till I had a good fit. That should take care of the switch so I can move on to something
else that needs attention.

 

[cathead]

The valve handle for the PTO was missing and all that was sticking out was a 5/16 inch shaft with a hole drilled in it.
My fix was to machine a piece of 3/4 inch stainless steel and add a 3/8 diameter piece of copper shaft to grip on to.
A press fit was used to hold the copper piece in place and the handle being made of stainless and copper will not rust.
A cotter key was used to affix the handle. This valve is screwed in to hold the PTO up during transit and screwed
out when using the PTO. I'm new to tractors so I learn a little more each day I work on it.

 

[cathead]

The dash control panel on this tractor was damaged and the glass was broken so I
had the glass people make me a new glass panel, nice! The other thing was that the
speedometer drive cable was twisted off. I did a resection job on it using a thin tube
of brass and some silver solder. It is strong enough I think so as long as it has some
clearance with the outer part of the cable, it will probably work fine. I will fit it up
later today and see if it works.
There isn't much if any bend on the drive(broken) end of the cable so if it slides in and turns, it ought to be workable. I'm
thinking I will use some light weight oil and graphite mixture to lube up the cable, maybe use some Lubriplate on the angle gear drive on the
speedometer drive head.

If this doesn't pan out for some reason, I think I can pull a speedometer cable out of an old car and shorten it to fit the
application. The speedometer drive is driven off the end of the governor on the injection pump which I thought was
interesting.