- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,602
Don't worry, lanolin melts at the same temperature as butter. You just need to liquify it to get it to mix well with the paste wax (the purpose of which is to leave a protective barrier) the solvent (determines final consistency) and the wetting agent/penetrant (that's where the glycol ether comes in). You can blend to taste. My recipe has a consistency like soft shoe polish (for those in the know, more like Parade Gloss than regular Kiwi...). That lets me scoop and smear with a chamois, spread on the work, then lightly buff. I wouldn't make more than 200g in a batch (do proportions by weight). Again like butter, it solidifies at room temp. Buy chamoix at amazon, you'll thank me. It is what was meant used to spread this sauce on tools and equipment.
If a body wanted a liquid similar to the Lanox stuff, I would say naptha (VM&P) has the best wetting properties of the solvents. Mineral spirits have much less odor, so I went that route, but if making a thin formula using 40 ml per 200g of lan/wax would get you there. You should be able to tweak proportions all day and still have a good result.
Don't bother with ATF. It's just long chain aliphatic oil. There is nothing in ATF to enhance this formula. Brake fluid, on paper, would be excellent, but it destroys paint. Same ingredients are in penetrating oil and Sea Foam, which do not (for some reason) destroy paint. So be knowledgeable of your substitutions.
It's crazy how I put that stuff on a lightly surface rusted chuck, and weeks later the rust is gone and no more is starting. I have started the long task of buttering up tool holders, fly cutters, my rotary table and divider, my lathe bed... Haven't hit my mill table or column yet, that'll be my coup de gras if it comes clean. I'll post that when I finish what's on the mill table now and turn over the fixtures.
If a body wanted a liquid similar to the Lanox stuff, I would say naptha (VM&P) has the best wetting properties of the solvents. Mineral spirits have much less odor, so I went that route, but if making a thin formula using 40 ml per 200g of lan/wax would get you there. You should be able to tweak proportions all day and still have a good result.
Don't bother with ATF. It's just long chain aliphatic oil. There is nothing in ATF to enhance this formula. Brake fluid, on paper, would be excellent, but it destroys paint. Same ingredients are in penetrating oil and Sea Foam, which do not (for some reason) destroy paint. So be knowledgeable of your substitutions.
It's crazy how I put that stuff on a lightly surface rusted chuck, and weeks later the rust is gone and no more is starting. I have started the long task of buttering up tool holders, fly cutters, my rotary table and divider, my lathe bed... Haven't hit my mill table or column yet, that'll be my coup de gras if it comes clean. I'll post that when I finish what's on the mill table now and turn over the fixtures.