Last time, I promise: PM-1228 or PM-1236??

The good thing about tools is you can use them to make tools to fix/setup your tools ;)

I don't even have my QCTP setup yet, am currently using the lantern toolpost that came with the machine. There actually are cases when you might want one of those too....

John
 
Sounds like a good choice, might consider going with a BXA, there is a wider selection of 5/8" tooling and it will accommodate the next size up insert which is more common, so CCMT 32.51, WNMG inserts, 5/8" knurlers, etc. There is also some extra rigidity, cost difference should be nominal.
 
Alright now, don't start asking questions and making me second guess my decision - I ordered a PM-1236-T last month. I did a fair amount of research and settled on the 1236 for space reasons in my shop, the weight of the machine and the Precision Matthews reputation. I have looked at a lot of old iron and while there are some good ones out there, it's a bit of a gamble on the condition. With the PM, I could order it with the options I wanted. Also, their sales folks were very helpful.

As for the AXA -vs- the BXA, I asked about that. With the PM-1236-T the height from the top of the compound to the center line of the spindle is too large for AXA.
 
maspann said:
Alright now, don't start asking questions and making me second guess my decision - I ordered a PM-1236-T last month. I did a fair amount of research and settled on the 1236 for space reasons in my shop, the weight of the machine and the Precision Matthews reputation. I have looked at a lot of old iron and while there are some good ones out there, it's a bit of a gamble on the condition. With the PM, I could order it with the options I wanted. Also, their sales folks were very helpful.

As for the AXA -vs- the BXA, I asked about that. With the PM-1236-T the height from the top of the compound to the center line of the spindle is too large for AXA.
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No worries... you are all set. All good. It just took me longer to get to where you are :D:D
 
wachuko said:
PEP - Preferred Package With DRO

Price wise is a wash between the two... I am really trying to figure out which of the two would be the best option.
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I'm a small lathe guy so I'm not all that familiar with the differences between the 1228 abd 1236, but it is my impression that the 1236 is a better lathe in general.

Based on the cost alone being so close unless space is an issue, I'd go with the 1236. Even if they are otherwise identical you get 8" more lathe.

I went with the 17" Sherline for my first lathe. I have never needed the full 17" but many times I have found the 8" would have been too short, so no regrets on my part.
 
Aaron_W said:
I'm a small lathe guy so I'm not all that familiar with the differences between the 1228 and 1236, but it is my impression that the 1236 is a better lathe in general.

Based on the cost alone being so close unless space is an issue, I'd go with the 1236. Even if they are otherwise identical you get 8" more lathe.

I went with the 17" Sherline for my first lathe. I have never needed the full 17" but many times I have found the 8" would have been too short, so no regrets on my part.
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I had been trying to decide on one. As you know, I wanted to start with a small one just to learn the ropes. But then I start reading, getting feedback from folks like you... Then I get to watch lots of videos and see the use given and the comments from the owners on the added complexity/time needed to change gears to do this or that...

The PM-1030 would have been perfect for me to start... but what if? What if I got the bug really good and wanted to do a few more things... going for approximately 4K (PM1030) to 5K (PM1130) and then to 6K (PM1236) was not going to keep food from the table or my kids from college... And seems this PM-1236 provides some additional ease of use when it comes to gear changes, chucks swap, and such. I like that it has a feed rod with a clutch so I can use a micrometer carriage stop, and I knew I wanted DRO on anything else that I bought...

Not sure if you noticed what I am doing there... hahahahaha... reassuring myself that I made the right decision listening to you guys... So I do not go back to the PM-1030 :D
 
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Once you get it in and start using it, you'll not regret it.
 
wachuko said:
I had been trying to decide on one. As you know, I wanted to start with a small one just to learn the ropes. But then I start reading, getting feedback from folks like you... Then I get to watch lots of videos and see the use given and the comments from the owners on the added complexity/time needed to change gears to do this or that...

The PM-1030 would have been perfect for me to start... but what if? What if I got the bug really good and wanted to do a few more things... going for approximately 4K (PM1030) to 5K (PM1130) and then to 6K (PM1236) was not going to keep food from the table or my kids from college... And seems this PM-1236 provides some additional ease of use when it comes to gear changes, chucks swap, and such. I like that it has a feed rod with a clutch so I can use a micrometer carriage stop, and I knew I wanted DRO on anything else that I bought...

Not sure if you noticed what I am doing there... hahahahaha... reassuring myself that I made the right decision listening to you guys... So I do not go back to the PM-1030 :D
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I was sure I only needed that little Sherline lathe, and maybe a mill. For what I got into this for, making model parts, those machines are still a great choice and still get used for that.

I was buying some tools to to meet a need, what I hadn't expected was for machining and the machines themselves to become a hobby of its own as you can see in my growing list below. :)
 
macardoso said:
You'll love the 12x36. Gives you a lot of room to grow. Easy to add features, hard to add iron.
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"Easy to add features, hard to add iron."

Truer words have never been spoken....

John
 
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