Loupes or magnifiers for lathe work

When I figure out which one, I'd like to try the kind that dentists use. They magnify but at an offset. But I'd have to figure out how to attach them to my glasses. Most are attached to a pair of safety glasses which rarely fit comfortably over normal glasses.
 
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These and similar surgical magnifying glasses have longer working distances than typical readers, OptiVisors & loupes:

View attachment 459646

Longer working distance would be ideal, if I can stand normally without bending over --- as you might need to with a magnifying glass or loupe.

Will check these out.

Thanks
 
Good lighting and a large magnifying lens is the simplest approach but here is an alternative ... However, I have complicated eye prescription and this makes it difficult. I can still see things pretty well without my glasses if I get close enough....not good when at a lathe or mill...!!!!

Inexpensive: I have not actually tried this at my lathe, but an approach I have used for other applications is to purchase an Olympus C-3040 or C-4040 digital camera for about $20-30 at ebay. I am sure there are lots of cameras that are more modern, but I became familiar with these. They have very good still picture resolution, 3 or 4 mega pixels, and connect directly to some monitors (lower resolutions) so you can actually look at the monitor while using it. They have a zoom feature. They have a fast (low light requirements), very large high quality glass lens which I have taken out this camera model to use for other optical experiments. Make sure you get a memory card (and cables if possible, but not a big issue) with it as the memory card is an old format and purchased separately can cost as much or more than the used camera. The cards are ultra thin. Even a small capacity card like 8MB will allow one to run the camera, just not capture many high def pictures. I purchased the C3030 model, $1000, when they first came out around 2000 and used it for years. By today's standards they are rather boxy. The pictures or movies it takes can be down loaded via the USB port, but the first version 3030 required special software. The 3040 and 4040 models used the standard USB interface software that comes with windows etc. At the time they were the most popular digital camera in Japan so one can find a lot of them on ebay now. You can also get a charger and run it continuously rather than with 4 AA cells. One can also get a glass lens cover to further protect the lens from debris. With a lens adapter they will fit right on a microscope, which is one of my applications. There is also a macro lens that allows one to take enlarged close ups. Back then, I purchase one of these to take pictures of jewelry. Of course today a really good phone camera will do that.

Or, you can also go to aliexpress and purchase a video microscope for $50, which I tried. But it is not very good and hard to focus.

Or, get a more expensive and modern video camera system and make U-Tube movies!
 
When I figure out which one, I'd like to try the kind that dentists use. They magnify but at an offset. But I'd have to figure out how to attach them to my glasses. Most are attached to a pair of safety glasses which rarely fit comfortably over normal glasses.
"Real" dental loupes - e.g. Zeiss start in the $2k range. I picked up a set of "Craft Optics" https://craftoptics.com/ - not cheap, but not $2k either. I got the long focal distance, which I think is 18". For machining, I wouldn't get the light, but it might be handy for some bench work*. You can get them with your prescription, or simple 'readers'. The field of view is 'adequate', but more would always be nicer. They do take some getting used to (as do, I suspect, even the 'big boy' dental loupes).

*unfortunately I don't find the long focal distance amenable to bench work, so for that it's back to the opti-visor...

GsT
 
"Real" dental loupes - e.g. Zeiss start in the $2k range. I picked up a set of "Craft Optics" https://craftoptics.com/ - not cheap, but not $2k either. I got the long focal distance, which I think is 18". For machining, I wouldn't get the light, but it might be handy for some bench work*. You can get them with your prescription, or simple 'readers'. The field of view is 'adequate', but more would always be nicer. They do take some getting used to (as do, I suspect, even the 'big boy' dental loupes).

*unfortunately I don't find the long focal distance amenable to bench work, so for that it's back to the opti-visor...

GsT
The ones in my earlier post from Amazon have 420mm (16-1/2") working distance and are far less expensive (and look to be the same only blue). James (Clough42) used a red pair a while back, but I can't find the video and he never shared a link to them.
 
I have these, phenomenal. Their light, no band to make your head sweat so you can wear them like glasses or use the minimalist strap that is included, and the light is bright and rechargeable.

I liked the look of this setup and decided the person who could most benefit is my SO. So I bought her the kit and she is absolutely thrilled with it. She’s always struggling with different diopter for different things so the easily swapped lenses are perfect for her. She’s started using them for reading in bed because of the handy light. You’ve made me her hero for getting them, thanks for posting this as I’d never seen them before.
 
These may look like ordinary bifocal glasses, but they are a bit more and I use them for quite a few different things requiring moderate to very close work. I call them Double-Bifocals. 2X power (diopters) in the main field and 4X in the bifocal region. Plus, they are safety glasses. I first got them for machining work, but since I use them for all sorts of close up work, including tying leader and tippet knots on my fishing flies, fly tying, fly rod making, woodworking, sewing, finding/pulling out slivers. Focal distance of the 2X is about 18" and 6" for the 4X. I have the Opti-Visor type as well and when I REALLY need to get close, as in tying 2/0 snake guides on a fly rod tip section, I put the Opti-Visors on over the Double-Bifocals. Working distance, about 3".

During machining, I'm using the 2X field for most operations, but when I need to see closer, I'm able to move in and view through the bifocal region. No fiddling with pulling down a visor. It is a completely natural act, at least given that I already use 2X bifocal drugstore readers in everyday activities. I do not lean in close with a machine running when viewing through the 4x bifocals unless I'm sure that I'm clear of things. That is rare, but it does happen.

These have required a prescription from my optician to have them made, so they are not an cheap alternative, but they are the most effection solution I've found. Frames are titanium.
 

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When you get your eyes checked for glasses, either at regular insurance place or the advertised cheap places, the phrase to use is "occupational glasses", this translates into special use and it seems they understand this.

What you need to do is MEASURE stuff...

In our case, we have 2 bnches upstairs, one for clock work and one for electronics.

Clocks are up close, electronics have things not so close, but the computer screen is up on the top corner of the each and we need to be able to focus on it, we also have our normal glasses we use there for the normal work.

You get comfortable in your working position, place whatever it is you work on in the normal place, then measure from the bridge of your nose to the thing you work on.

Then, ask the examiner to place the book card at that distance and dial in your vision.

Now ask to add magnification.

As you add this, your depth of field gets smaller, but boy, does it make a difference!

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
@RickKr
These may look like ordinary bifocal glasses, but they are a bit more and I use them for quite a few different things
Can you try again with your attachment? Clicking on it yields and error?
 
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