- Joined
- Sep 2, 2013
- Messages
- 378
Nice project. Light is important as we age. Not that you are old yet.
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My PM1236
- Thread starter darkzero
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2012
- Messages
- 7,855
Thanks Rick! Actually this couldn't have happened at the worse time. I'm not old yet but the past couple of months I have been having problems focusing on details. Eye get strained after a while. Changed all the bulbs in the garage, bought reading glasses, & a couple of Optivisors.
Hey Darkzero, got a question for you (or anyone that has an answer . Did you come up with another way to lock the cross slide with the DRO covering the allen key access hole? I am about to have the same problem and I do use it quite often to add some rigidity when boring, especially on the final passes.
. Did you come up with another way to lock the cross slide with the DRO covering the allen key access hole? I am about to have the same problem and I do use it quite often to add some rigidity when boring, especially on the final passes.
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2012
- Messages
- 7,855
I have not but I have seen others here & on the net come up with solutions for other lathes. Like spacing out the cross slide DRO scale for use with an open end wrench or making one for the other side (headstock side). But spacing out the DRO scale on the PM1236 may lead to interference with the carriage lock & carriage oilers if using glass scales. Maybe a magnetic scale might provide more room.Hey Darkzero, got a question for you (or anyone that has an answer
I never really used the cross slide lock before I installed the DRO anyway. I only use the carriage lock & compound slide lock often.
Thanks for the super fast reply! I am thinking I will move it to the head stock side and use a brass tipped set screw. By coincidence I am going to use a magnetic scale but I don't want to reduce any tail stock to carriage clearance.
I noticed you switched to link belts, did you notice any difference? If yes, do you have a source or recommendation on brand?
BTW, extra thanks for all the pictures at the start of the thread, I stole several of your ideas already.
I noticed you switched to link belts, did you notice any difference? If yes, do you have a source or recommendation on brand?
BTW, extra thanks for all the pictures at the start of the thread, I stole several of your ideas already.
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2012
- Messages
- 7,855
No problem & good to hear. 
In my case, switching to link belts, yes. I used to get weird harmonics at certain RPMs that would show up in the finish when facing aluminum. If I ran the stock belts a bit loose it got better but still showed up. The link belts completely cured that. My stock belts also developed a memory (lump) which caused a slight vibration, link belts won't develop memory. Not sure if my stock belts were the cause of the harmonics issue I had but I used to have that issue before the belts got the lumps. I hear single phase motors could also be the cause for the weird harmonics. I'm sure good quality V-belts would have fixed my issues too.
I'm happy with the links belts, still on the same ones for over 10 yrs now & they're still good. Only downside is they are expensive & a tad bit noisier. The ones I'm running are directional aren't recommended to be ran in reverse but I do it all the time & have had no issues. I'm running Fenner Power Twist link belts. I've never tried any of the other brands. I ran Fenner belts on some of my other stuff too before this lathe. I forget where I purchased them though, I know some them I got through ebay.
In my case, switching to link belts, yes. I used to get weird harmonics at certain RPMs that would show up in the finish when facing aluminum. If I ran the stock belts a bit loose it got better but still showed up. The link belts completely cured that. My stock belts also developed a memory (lump) which caused a slight vibration, link belts won't develop memory. Not sure if my stock belts were the cause of the harmonics issue I had but I used to have that issue before the belts got the lumps. I hear single phase motors could also be the cause for the weird harmonics. I'm sure good quality V-belts would have fixed my issues too.
I'm happy with the links belts, still on the same ones for over 10 yrs now & they're still good. Only downside is they are expensive & a tad bit noisier. The ones I'm running are directional aren't recommended to be ran in reverse but I do it all the time & have had no issues. I'm running Fenner Power Twist link belts. I've never tried any of the other brands. I ran Fenner belts on some of my other stuff too before this lathe. I forget where I purchased them though, I know some them I got through ebay.
- Joined
- May 3, 2017
- Messages
- 1,997
Here's mine. Pretty similar to Aukai's and based on one by Mark Jacobs. The machinist square is set to illustrate that the mounting bracket sits below the carriage.
I use it constantly without issue. However, like Aukai said, you do need to be careful that you are not operating the lathe with the handle pointed 'up'. In my first two photos, the carriage is locked - strategically designed so that the handle is parallel with and below the height of the table. The bigger problem is when loosening it, making sure the handle is clear of the carriage by turning at least 180 degrees. For large turnings - especially if the jaws are reversed - it's possible for the handle to come in contact with the moving chuck or an extended jaw. Could be a train wreck ready to happen.
Regards,
Terry
I use it constantly without issue. However, like Aukai said, you do need to be careful that you are not operating the lathe with the handle pointed 'up'. In my first two photos, the carriage is locked - strategically designed so that the handle is parallel with and below the height of the table. The bigger problem is when loosening it, making sure the handle is clear of the carriage by turning at least 180 degrees. For large turnings - especially if the jaws are reversed - it's possible for the handle to come in contact with the moving chuck or an extended jaw. Could be a train wreck ready to happen.
Regards,
Terry
I did one similar to what Aukai & tjb have. Bolted into the follow rest holes. I usually remove it when I don't need it. With an 8" chuck and the jaws opened very wide, they could hit the lock.
Some day, when I've got more ambition, I may take the carriage off and drill for a lock back of the DRO scale. There are a few inches free there.
Some day, when I've got more ambition, I may take the carriage off and drill for a lock back of the DRO scale. There are a few inches free there.