Need Help: Refinishing a Mitutoyo Micrometer Case

E

extropic

H-M Supporter - Diamond Member
H-M Lifetime Diamond Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Messages
3,159
First, I should make it clear that I'm profoundly unknowledgeable regarding finishes for wood (except paint).
That's why I'm asking for recommendations.
I bought a used micrometer.
Using a Magic Marker, four sides of the case were substantially (and unattractively) graffitied with nomenclature of the PO's choice.
Using Acetone, I have scrubbed off the offending graffiti, to my satisfaction.
The Acetone has also removed much of the OEM finish from the wood.
The OEM finish has a slight orangish hue compared to the naked wood.
From what little experience I have, my WAG is that the OEM finish is a shellac.

I'd like to apply a finish that will protect the wood from staining in the typical metalworking shop.
It would be ideal if I could come close to the 'look' of OEM, but that's a secondary consideration to being at least as durable as the OEM finish.
I can remove all the OEM finish, if necessary, except . . . The latch is what I call "press in" type, assumed to have barbs on the retaining bits.
No screws or nails are visible.
My guess is that prying the latch bits off the wood would create local damage and the latch would have to be reattached with epoxy.
Removing the latch, by prying, might well damage the latch. Bad idea.
I'd rather avoid removing the latch, so I'd like to just approximate the color of and overcoat the remaining OEM finish.

Do you agree that the OEM finish is probably shellac?

What finish product(s) should I buy? Please be specific. A link would be appreciated.
I see Zinsser brand clear shellac is easily available.

What do I use to tint the clear to orangish?
Maybe the clear will look orangish when applied/dried so no tint required? Please comment.

Am I barking up the wrong tree?
What do you recommend?

In the picture, you can see remnants of the OEM finish at the left edge and around the logo area.
I tried to leave the logo alone, but it wouldn't take much motivation to strip the top naked.
The logo has only minimal value to me and it's already compromised.

Thanks for reading.

Mitutoyo Refinish Before.jpg
 
An easy test for shellac is alcohol. It comes in flakes that at melted in alcohol to use as a carrier, the alcohol evaporates and leaves the finish.
Shellac flakes come in orange to blonde colour, blonde being more expensive.
It would be a good finish, pretty much impervious to oil, but spill a mixed drink on a french polished table and its finish is toast.

Shellacs - Lee Valley Tools

www.leevalley.com www.leevalley.com

Greg
 
f350ca said:
An easy test for shellac is alcohol. It comes in flakes that at melted in alcohol to use as a carrier, the alcohol evaporates and leaves the finish.
Shellac flakes come in orange to blonde colour, blonde being more expensive.
It would be a good finish, pretty much impervious to oil, but spill a mixed drink on a french polished table and its finish is toast.

Shellacs - Lee Valley Tools

www.leevalley.com www.leevalley.com

Greg
Click to expand...
Thank you
 
I really like orange shellac. Easy to apply and looks rich and very durable. Home Depot has it also.
Martin
 
Nuts! Denatured Alcohol is banned in California (where I am right now). I'll see what I can do to work around that.
 
I would recommend oil-based Varathane -- which is a polyurethane-- in a 50:50 mixture with mineral spirits (paint thinner). It will give you the orange-ish appearance you want and will be very hard and resistant to water and oil. You can get it in half pints, so you won't have a bunch of it left over.

You can apply four or five coats of the mixture with a rag, allowing about six hours between coats. Then wait 24 hours, sand with 220-400 grit sandpaper to a smooth finish, and apply a final coat. Your final finish will be silky smoothe and will have no brush marks to it.

Polyurethane will produce a finish similar to shellac, but will be impervious to water, oil, and other solvents like alcohol -- unlike shellac. So you can safely wipe the finish clean of dust and oil with mineral spirits.

The downside to a finish like this is that it will be coating, unlike an oil or stain, so you will lose some of the wood's natural grainy appearance, but not all of it.

The little birch box in this photo has a satin Varathane finish on it. You can see the orange hue over the lighter birch natural color.
Clamps4.jpg
 
Last edited:
extropic said:
Nuts! Denatured Alcohol is banned in California (where I am right now). I'll see what I can do to work around that.
Click to expand...
Well, if they still sell it, maybe you can find a miniature of Everclear, which would be an un-denatured alcohol - 190 proof;)
 
Last edited:
The linseed oil finish tends to have a yellow or amber tint when put on thick, and is the traditional finish used on products like that. It's cheap and it works. It doesn't get any easier than brush on, wipe off.

I didn't take before pics, but this case was truly horrifying. Abused and neglected, I never thought it would come clean. I just used teak oil, which is like linseed except a little more clear in color due to the higher tung oil content.

PXL_20230731_001550712.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top