Need info on a good oxy/acteylene set up for brazing

helmbelly

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Hey folks, I'm a small shop prototyper tooling up for a small run maybe 100, hand operated T bolts that clamp an aluminum block to a bike handlebar. McMaster and others just don't fit the bill, we need a handle lever you can muckle onto and torque so it doesn't hurt your hand just have to make what we need.

So I'm going to jump into brazing. Plan to get 5/16 stainless steel bolts, cut the head off. Then cut 2.5" lengths of stainless tube and pop a 5/16 hole near the center. I'll chamfer the bolt so when its pushed in flush to the holed tube it forms a groove or trough to run in some 56% silver brazing/solder wire.

So what's the deal with oxy-acetylene for brazing? I see little kits on Amazon for around $250 with bottles. I have good american machinery but I'm not above China Freight when I just need to get something cut. I know nothing about welding - and would like to avoid screwing up big time. If I buy a no name (non Victor) Oxy set up could I still buy tips that fit?

just trying to get tips and pointers on getting started with gas. Thanks!
 
Go get advice from your local welding shop. You might have to silver braze it - it depends on what stainless grade you are trying to bond. I regularly baze carbide to tool shanks. Stainless may be different.

I'm converting from oxy/acetyline rig to induction. Far lower costs, risks, more controllable, faster.
 
clamp an aluminum block to a bike handlebar.
Is this in any way supporting the rider or a load?

If so stainless should be taken out of the equation especially braised as it tends to work harden making it brittle.
 
Go get advice from your local welding shop. You might have to silver braze it - it depends on what stainless grade you are trying to bond. I regularly baze carbide to tool shanks. Stainless may be different.

I'm converting from oxy/acetyline rig to induction. Far lower costs, risks, more controllable, faster.
I don't know who my local welding shop is! I live in a city and don't like dropping in on guys at work asking advice- doesn't tend to end well ;-) But an internet forum OTOH....
 
Is this in any way supporting the rider or a load?

If so stainless should be taken out of the equation especially braised as it tends to work harden making it brittle.
Yes the blocks support the riders hands but this clamp is just for the ease of fast adjustment. It has a captive delrin spacer offset so it tightens and leaves room for fingers to get under the arm, if the braze failed and the "arm" fell on the street it would not lose it's clamping force or lessen the 'bite' of the bolt.
 
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Generally, brazing stainless was recommended as a strong, durable way to do this- on a par with welding. If work hardening ever becomes an issue I can add a pin I guess. But with the high silver content this is said to be the "silver bullet". Propane will get the job done but Oxy should make it a cleaner faster op
 
Go get advice from your local welding shop. You might have to silver braze it - it depends on what stainless grade you are trying to bond. I regularly baze carbide to tool shanks. Stainless may be different.

I'm converting from oxy/acetyline rig to induction. Far lower costs, risks, more controllable, faster.
May I ask, what induction method you going to? Looking for alternatives also.
 
I don't know who my local welding shop is! I live in a city and don't like dropping in on guys at work asking advice- doesn't tend to end well ;-) But an internet forum OTOH....
Try a welding supply store, I have found them to be a useful resource, they may be able to refer you to someone if they can't help.

Tim
 
For a run of 100 small items, I would think almost any torch set-up that worked initially would last the job. With that said a small Victor torch set-up is not terribly expensive. Consider the total cost including bottles, gas and silver braze rods and I think you will find that a few more dollars for the torch is a small part of the investment.
 
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