- Joined
- Feb 14, 2020
- Messages
- 166
Indeed, my experience has been fantastic. Order at night after business hours and I have a notification by 1000 the next morning and a package 48 later. Top notch.
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Newbie and the Bridgeport
- Thread starter Ceej0103
- Start date
Indeed, my experience has been fantastic. Order at night after business hours and I have a notification by 1000 the next morning and a package 48 later. Top notch.
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2020
- Messages
- 166
I know you guys are sitting on the edge of your seats, but must make you wait longer. Been distracted/busy and not quite done with the machine yet and not ready to debut it to the thread. Should be soon!
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2020
- Messages
- 157
I am not sure if its possible, but I have been looking for the gif of Judge Judy doing the watch tapping on her wrist.
Jon
Jon
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2020
- Messages
- 166
Check out this score from the auction I posted about. Got a lot for $100 that included 16 of these chunks of stainless. I was thinking about ordering those fancy outrigger leveling feet but now I think I found my first milling job!
all are the same dimension which is 1” x 3” x 48”
got a lot of round stock also. Aluminum, stainless, and some various steels I’ve never seen. I should be in business for a while.
all are the same dimension which is 1” x 3” x 48”
got a lot of round stock also. Aluminum, stainless, and some various steels I’ve never seen. I should be in business for a while.
Attachments
Looks good!
For the quill feed, I had a problem with a couple of things being bound up with crud. Your description of how you think it should work is how mine does now. In my case, disassembling, cleaning and lubricating got it going. It sounds like yours is still trying to feed even after you move the lever back, I suspect that's the root of your problem.
The limit setup for my power feed is using those holes, but mine is entirely mechanical. It physically moves the engagement lever. My machine has the old style gearbox power feed, so it's a little different. It seems like a good way to handle the electronic switch version as well though.
For the quill feed, I had a problem with a couple of things being bound up with crud. Your description of how you think it should work is how mine does now. In my case, disassembling, cleaning and lubricating got it going. It sounds like yours is still trying to feed even after you move the lever back, I suspect that's the root of your problem.
The limit setup for my power feed is using those holes, but mine is entirely mechanical. It physically moves the engagement lever. My machine has the old style gearbox power feed, so it's a little different. It seems like a good way to handle the electronic switch version as well though.
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2016
- Messages
- 1,419
On your speed change going the wrong way... yes, you have the chain wrapped the wrong way. Remove the face plate and wrap it the other way and you'll be all set.
The table travel limit switch is typically mounted on those two holes in the front and the stops are adjusted in the front T slot. Either bend that bracket or make a piece to go behind it.
Quill feed clutch not kicking out: Will it kick out if you manually push up on that vertical rod (feed trip plunger) that the teeter totter arm (feed trip lever) hits on? If so, then something in either that rod or the teeter totter pivot/arm is worn and bent. Try pushing up hard on that plunger. If you can make it trip by working it manually, then you'll know where the problems is (or isn't). Yes, it could also be the clutch itself or an adjustment of it, but seems to me I had an issue with one of the linkages I mentioned above at one point. Anything loose, worn or bent in any of those trip parts could cause that problem.
Good work!
Ted
The table travel limit switch is typically mounted on those two holes in the front and the stops are adjusted in the front T slot. Either bend that bracket or make a piece to go behind it.
Quill feed clutch not kicking out: Will it kick out if you manually push up on that vertical rod (feed trip plunger) that the teeter totter arm (feed trip lever) hits on? If so, then something in either that rod or the teeter totter pivot/arm is worn and bent. Try pushing up hard on that plunger. If you can make it trip by working it manually, then you'll know where the problems is (or isn't). Yes, it could also be the clutch itself or an adjustment of it, but seems to me I had an issue with one of the linkages I mentioned above at one point. Anything loose, worn or bent in any of those trip parts could cause that problem.
Good work!
Ted
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2020
- Messages
- 166
@ttabbal and @Technical Ted thanks for your responses. Good info on the limit switch. I have a path forward now
For the down feed, I’m just going to attach another video. The feed does not kick out when I press up hard on the rocker. I can see the shaft move up and I can hear it let go of the block, but it just doesn’t kick out hard like I’ve seen other machines. Here’s some more videos and more questions!
For the down feed, I’m just going to attach another video. The feed does not kick out when I press up hard on the rocker. I can see the shaft move up and I can hear it let go of the block, but it just doesn’t kick out hard like I’ve seen other machines. Here’s some more videos and more questions!
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2016
- Messages
- 1,419
Range just changes spindle direction, period. Engaging backgear changes spindle direction, so you need to reverse spindle (motor) direction.
Grease in hole "A". Squeeze it in and estimate the volume.
I'm not familiar with that grease/oil? fitting in the front... never seen one there before. Maybe someone else can help??? I'd have to see where the grease/oil would end up going when the head was taken apart... Remember, some zerts take oil not grease.
Looks like there's is something up in the kick out linkage. Removing the ball: Never had this issue, but the ball needs to come out. Can you make a small scraper out of an old small file and work the hole around the perimeter of the ball to open the hole up? Must be the hole is burred over holding the ball in. Or, maybe if you have a small rotary file bit on a Dremel (or whatever) you can work the hole opening??? You might ruin the ball, but they are easy to replace.
Speed change. Open it up; you should not have to remove the pin. Just re-wrap the chain in the correct rotation (direction) by turning the crank the other way when you have it removed. IIRC, this is all you have to do. I had the same issue when I assembled my first one.
Good luck,
Ted
Grease in hole "A". Squeeze it in and estimate the volume.
I'm not familiar with that grease/oil? fitting in the front... never seen one there before. Maybe someone else can help??? I'd have to see where the grease/oil would end up going when the head was taken apart... Remember, some zerts take oil not grease.
Looks like there's is something up in the kick out linkage. Removing the ball: Never had this issue, but the ball needs to come out. Can you make a small scraper out of an old small file and work the hole around the perimeter of the ball to open the hole up? Must be the hole is burred over holding the ball in. Or, maybe if you have a small rotary file bit on a Dremel (or whatever) you can work the hole opening??? You might ruin the ball, but they are easy to replace.
Speed change. Open it up; you should not have to remove the pin. Just re-wrap the chain in the correct rotation (direction) by turning the crank the other way when you have it removed. IIRC, this is all you have to do. I had the same issue when I assembled my first one.
Good luck,
Ted