Newbie needs help with Logan 200 spindle runout

[Nogoingback]

Here is a video of the bearing. It looks like the original to me? So, I don't know if he changed the back one? Anyways, if any of the Logan gurus recognize this bearing and can confirm it is the original that would be awesome.

Here is a video of the bearing. It looks like the original to me? So, I don't know if he changed the back one? Anyways, if any of the Logan gurus recognize this bearing and can confirm it is the original that would be awesome.

It looks like an original bearing given the fact that has it has a snap ring, but the only way to confirm it is to pull the spindle. Did the seller tell you which bearing was changed? If it was the other bearing, that wouldn't be a surprise. It's nothing special: just an over the counter single row ball bearing. I'm traveling for work and won't be home for a couple of days. When I get home, I'll let you know exactly how the old bearing was marked: I kept it.

Another thing I noticed in you vid is that the motor is jumping around a bit. You might want to check that the bolt that tensions the belt between the motor and countershaft is secured with 2 nuts and they are both tight.

 

[SuperTroye]

Ok I don't remember which bearing he replaced, but looking through the box of stuff there is a replacement for the front bearing. So, it wasn't the front. It must have been the back. Not to veer too far off topic, but I realize this isn't the proper, preloaded, $200 replacement from Logan. The PO must have bought it because he thought it would work. So, the original bearing is still on the front.

 

[SuperTroye]

Another thing I noticed in you vid is that the motor is jumping around a bit. You might want to check that the bolt that tensions the belt between the motor and countershaft is secured with 2 nuts and they are both tight.

Yes, I need to realign the motor pulley with the countershaft pulley. When I got it, the motor was mounted backwards, had the wrong pulley and many bolts were missing. But somehow it ran and I was in a rush and didnt have the experience to spot it. So, I've gone over the machine and making many things right. Then I'm gonna sell it

 

[Richard King 2]

That is the worse class bearing. I just checked this chart. Abec 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 is the best or lowest amount of run out.
Scroll down to Table IA and look at Bore diameter. and then over to Radial Run-out look at the 5 Th one down..30mm or 1.811bore...max run out is .0006" if I am reading it right. So a worn improperly mounted bearing. Improper meaning painted blue headstock where it should be bare iron . I would have thought the new bearing would be a # 7 or a #5 Abec. So pack the bearings with some good grease 30% full and assemble it if your going to sell it. Don't fill the bearing more then 30% it gets hot.

https://www.astbearings.com/bearing-tolerances-precision-levels.html

 

[SuperTroye]

That is the worse class bearing. I just checked this chart. Abec 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 is the best or lowest amount of run out.
Scroll down to Table IA and look at Bore diameter. and then over to Radial Run-out look at the 5 Th one down..30mm or 1.811bore...max run out is .0006" if I am reading it right. So a worn improperly mounted bearing. Improper meaning painted blue headstock where it should be bare iron . I would have thought the new bearing would be a # 7 or a #5 Abec. So pack the bearings with some good grease 30% full and assemble it if your going to sell it. Don't fill the bearing more then 30% it gets hot.

https://www.astbearings.com/bearing-tolerances-precision-levels.html

Richard, can't tell you enough, Thank You for your advice.

I will remove the spindle and strip the paint under the bearing guard where it should be bare metal. Then pack the bearings with proper grease.

 

[Nogoingback]

The spindle is removed left to right after removing the "nut" off the end, removing the set screws (including the one on the bull gear) and
of course the plate on the chuck end. There is a keyway for the bull gear. The key needs to pass through a slot in a dust shield in the
right hand side of the headstock behind the bearing. If you don't line them up, the key will damage the dust shield. The bearings are a light press fit into the
headstock, but sometimes it's difficult to get things moving. Just make sure that you don't miss a setscrew. When I did mine I turned an
aluminum "button" that fit into the end of the spindle, and then got it moving with a dead blow (plastic) hammer. That way I didn't endanger
the threads on the end of the spindle.

 

[SuperTroye]

Ok I got my dial test indicator. I set it up as shown in the video below and it looks like max runout is 0.0005. So, it's presumed the spindle is good?

I ordered a Phase II quick change tool post. Comes in tomorrow. Need to order a boring bar to complete the backplate.

 

[Rooster]

You should check the face of the spindle register, it looked like there was a wobble.

 

[mikey]

Looks pretty good. I suggest you choke up on the indicator arm; having it extended like that can cause error just on the method alone. Fold the arm up tight and you'll see less bouncing of the needle and have better accuracy. Try to do all these checks with the lathe warmed up - run it for 20 minutes at medium speed and then take your readings. I also suggest you check at two or three parts of the spindle taper to be sure your readings are consistent. If they are, then you can be fairly confident that what you see is what you have.

Once you know what the spindle run out is, compare it to the spindle register that locates your chucks. If that reads the same then you have what you have. As for whether or not 0.0005" is acceptable, it probably is for an older lathe like this. Many newer lathes (and some old ones, too) have run out in the 0.0000" - 0.0002" range.

 

[Richard King 2]

Did you scrape off the paint like we talked about? Did you grease the bearings? They look cleaned with no grease in photo's. I use Mobil #28 or 32 grease when I pack bearings. The major issue you have is the NO undercut in the chuck right? t looks as if there is a burr or crud inside the spindle when it runs so good and all of a sudden it jumps a couple of tenths. Use some scotch brite in hole. Rotate spindle BY HAND and NOT UNDER POWER. I have heard horror stories about get fingers ripped off running under power.