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[Mill] Old but new to me Diamond Horizontal Mill

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coinseeker

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#1
Need some help! I know there is a couple of you guys on here that owns or know about these old Diamond horizontal milling machine. I think this is a m-20. The motor is a 3/4 hp 220 3 phase motor can I replace this with a 1 hp 110 motor? I got the machine and all the other stuff you see in the pictures for 100.00 was this an okay deal? This was sold buy a company out of Indianapolis IN to a company here in Louisville KY back in the early 1940's
 

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FOMOGO

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#3
I think you you have some work to do, but for $100, definitely no room to complain. Your 110 motor should be fine if the rpm is similar to the original. Mike
 

coinseeker

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#4
I think you you have some work to do, but for $100, definitely no room to complain. Your 110 motor should be fine if the rpm is similar to the original. Mike
both are 1750 rpm
 

coinseeker

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#6
Want your money back?
I run across deals all the time if your interested in one i will let you know. working on a montgomery ward lathe that was made by logan lathe company. bearings in the head need work. I offered him 50.00 he said he will let me know
 

coinseeker

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#7
Just the box of cutters is worth more than $100. Nice deal.
Yeah that is what made me buy it. turns out about half of them the shaft opening is 1.25 and mine is 1.00 so i hope i can find some one that needs them. I did get one B & S#9 taper collet.
 

cjtoombs

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#8
It looks like a B12 to me. I have one. You're lucky, that one has the table with the three t slots. Mine has one. Mine was made in 45, they changed to the three t slot table sometime after that. That's a nice haul you got with it. Enjoy.
 
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brino

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#9
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GrayTech

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#10
Just the box of cutters is worth more than $100. Nice deal.
Yeah that is what made me buy it. turns out about half of them the shaft opening is 1.25 and mine is 1.00 so i hope i can find some one that needs them. I did get one B & S#9 taper collet.
Pretty sure a bushing will solve that issue.
 

markba633csi

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#11
Heck yes you got a great deal, you could get a VFD to power it. I think 3/4 HP is plenty for these guys
Here's mine: 1012161001-00.jpg Mark
 
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markba633csi

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#12
It's either a B-12 or an M-20 I don't know what the difference is
My arbor is 1" too and they seem to be less common than 1-1/4
 
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Dredb

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#13
Nice old machine, built like a brick outhouse. I don't know what prices are like in Kentucky but it looks like great deal to me. Needs a little work but a very useful machine. I have an old Denbigh horizontal mill, similar design, flat belt cone pulleys and back gear. I fitted a Bridgeport M head and replaced the old table feed with an Align/Servo type, much better! Horizontal spindle is driven by a 3phase motor and inverter. I use wide poly v belts on the flat pulleys.
 

markba633csi

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#15
You have much more Z travel than the Diamonds, nice machine, bigger too looks like, + backgear; you could pull the earth off it's axis with that thing
Mark
 

coinseeker

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#16
Here is a couple pics of the motor and the plug. Is this 3 phase? The motor only has 3 wires going into it. The plate on the motor is pretty worn and can't read all the info. Here is some pics of the pulley system. In most of the pictures I see of others system they have 3 sets of 2 pulleys, mine are all different sizes. Thanks for all the help and info.
 

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markba633csi

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#17
One nice feature on the Diamond is the large easy to read dials, especially if one doesn't have a DRO (I don't, yet)
Mark 0221181257-00.jpg
 

markba633csi

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#18
Yes it looks like 3 phase. I see you have 6 step pulleys on yours- maybe a special factory version for extra speeds
 

Dredb

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#19
Try to find some old books on horizontal mills, there are plenty on line. A common mistake is to run the cutters too fast, without flood coolant they will burn out very quickly. It's very satisfying when you start a cut and watch the machine munching through metal.
 

coinseeker

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#20
Try to find some old books on horizontal mills, there are plenty on line. A common mistake is to run the cutters too fast, without flood coolant they will burn out very quickly. It's very satisfying when you start a cut and watch the machine munching through metal.
I agree. what size is your spindle? and did you paint yours? looks like you could eat off it LOL looks good
 

Dredb

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#21
I agree. what size is your spindle? and did you paint yours? looks like you could eat off it LOL looks good
Thank you. The taper is MT4. I bought the machine from a farmer, it had been in his barn for a while. He told me it had been used to make aircraft during the war, he didn't say which war! The original paint and casting filler had crumbled to dust and there was much rust. It cleaned up well, I was pleased that there were no broken castings. I didn't use any filler, just primer, undercoat and 2 topcoats of tractor enamel, not a display job, just good enough for a working machine.
 

coinseeker

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#22
How did you remove the rust? How did you apply your paint? I bought mine from an old elevator company. It was used to make tank tracks in WW2. they closed down there machine shop in the 70's and it has been sitting ever since.
 

Silverbullet

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#23
Ya robber , stealing machines is against the law. The cutters are worth what you paid. Good deal. Good luck.
 

Cactus Farmer

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#24
Yeah that is what made me buy it. turns out about half of them the shaft opening is 1.25 and mine is 1.00 so i hope i can find some one that needs them. I did get one B & S#9 taper collet.
A newly build shaft will allow you to use those cutters. Easy to do with your lathe and the machine you have to cut the keyway.
 

Dredb

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#25
Rust and paint removal, machine parts and screws, I use a bench grinder (outside) with an 8" soft wire wheel. Takes a little practice but removes rust and paint quickly. Leaves surface ready for degreasing and painting or oil blacking. I treat bare metal and oil blacked parts with beeswax furniture polish. Machine body and large parts, angle grinder with wire wheels, flap wheels, scrapers, sandpaper. Bearing and sliding surfaces (just to clean and derust prior to remedial work), angle grinder with soft wire wheels, scrapers, wet or dry abrasive. Wire wheels for both bench and angle grinders come in at least 3 grades, soft, medium, hard. Exercise judgement, you want to remove rust and old finish not metal. Chemical, strippers that work no longer exist in this part of the world. Cleaning off 90 years worth of rust, flaking paint and congealed nastiness is a boring, filthy job, I like to get it over with as quickly as possible so I can get to the interesting stuff. I wear PPE for eyes, lungs, hands and body when using wire wheels. The wires break off the wheels in use and travel fast enough to penetrate clothing and flesh.
I usually apply paint by brush and roller. Tractor paint is good!
Cutters with 1.25" center holes. I have a few of these together with a sleeve, about 1.5" dia, a 1.25" shoulder at each end and a 1" bore. The sleeve can be fitted to a 1" arbor and supports 2 cutters a fixed distance apart so that 2 (or more) surfaces of the work piece may be machined simultaneously (Gang milling). The sleeve is easily made and allows the use of cutters with a larger center hole than the arbor. Light gang milling (light because this is/was usually done on large and heavy machines with bigger arbors) can also be done with spacers separating 1" cutters on the 1" arbor, the method may be useful on smaller machines but with lighter feeds. Precision spacers and micrometer adjustable spacers are available for this purpose.
 

coinseeker

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#26
Thank you sir Looks like i'm going to need to invest in a bunch of wire wheels. After doing more research looks like i'm going to have to tear down the head to clean the old grease out of the bearings. So I'm going to remove the table and power wash the body down and prep it for paint. looking for a replacement motor also. Think i'm going to go with 3/4 hp 220v Thanks for the info Have a great day
 

markba633csi

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#27
Should be interesting, I'll be following your project
Mark
 

Dredb

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#28
Yes, me too! Pictures of progress please.
 

coinseeker

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#29
Okay I got everything taken apart today. I pulled the shaft and bearings, man that was a pain in the #$$. Took me a bit to figure out how to get it apart. Okay I got a question for you guys. On the inside of the pulley housing there is three allen head screws on both sides of the wall that holds the shaft. If you look at the pictures you can see where they come through behind the bearing race. Does anybody know what they are for? Could it be to hold the metal at the back together? In the pics you can see three bands of material. Hears some pics of what I got done today.
 

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markba633csi

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#30
Ya got me- maybe some sort of factory feature to help install/remove the bearing races?
Or perhaps to accommodate an alternate type of bearing? Don't know.
Can you read the bearing numbers? You might be able to date it exactly
 
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