PM-727V or PM-30MV

[19E60]

No plug is included with the machine, pick your own.

 

[rwm]

My lathe came without a plug. I selected the type that my welder uses so it would match. If you have or are getting any other 220v tools you may consider that as well as the amp rating. I assume you are building the box you showed earlier to use 2 x 120v outlets?
Robert

 

[Bob Korves]

Choose a plug to fit the socket. If you need both, then it is your choice, just pick ones appropriate to the voltage and UL rated for A/C usage.

 

[Maine]

My lathe came without a plug. I selected the type that my welder uses so it would match. If you have or are getting any other 220v tools you may consider that as well as the amp rating. I assume you are building the box you showed earlier to use 2 x 120v outlets?
Robert

Yep, I'm doing it myself, because I can do it for $30 whereas the company selling the same thing wants $300. I kind of already committed to 15A, because the machine said "15A minimum" and I didn't want to chance 20A, because there's no guarantee the amps will be pulled from both breakers equally. I'm using 12 gauge for this and doing less than 16 feet, because the PDF advises less than 20 feet for any sort of "extension cord" setup.

 

[rwm]

Your amperage will be limited to the house wiring. When you make a circuit using two adjacent breakers (as you plan to do) you are tapping into the +120 and -120 lines. The current flows from one black wire to the other (rather than from black to white.) Each circuit breaker will see the identical amperage by definition. If the house circuits you are using are rated for 15 amps that would be your maximum load. Keep in mind that home circuits are only intended to carry 80% of max rating continuously. So a 15 amp breaker should only be run up to 12 amps and a 20 amp breaker can run 16 amps safely. As you stated above the manufacturer says the machine needs a 15A circuit and therefore draws less than 12A running. Sounds to me like it will work fine.
Robert

 

[Maine]

Your amperage will be limited to the house wiring. When you make a circuit using two adjacent breakers (as you plan to do) you are tapping into the +120 and -120 lines. The current flows from one black wire to the other (rather than from black to white.) Each circuit breaker will see the identical amperage by definition. If the house circuits you are using are rated for 15 amps that would be your maximum load. Keep in mind that home circuits are only intended to carry 80% of max rating continuously. So a 15 amp breaker should only be run up to 12 amps and a 20 amp breaker can run 16 amps safely. As you stated above the manufacturer says the machine needs a 15A circuit and therefore draws less than 12A running. Sounds to me like it will work fine.
Robert

Well, worst case scenario, both breakers are going to flip, then I put the machine in the basement and hope that radon mitigator is working properly.

 

[Maine]

So, I got the machine on Thursday afternoon, I have it in my garage and I've been working on removing the saddle + milling table, I've got the Y Axis lead screw off and the saddle gib, but I'm curious now, is there any way to remove the backlash protection piece, WITHOUT removing the table off the saddle? This is the piece i'm talking about for reference:

 

[inline]

For the 727 or 30, how many pieces can they be broken down into for trying to move downstairs into a basement? Manageable chunks?

 

[wrmiller]

For the 727 or 30, how many pieces can they be broken down into for trying to move downstairs into a basement? Manageable chunks?

Not sure what you define "manageable" to be, but the 30 can be broken down by taking the head off it's mount, remove the head mount from the column, remove the column from the base, remove the table from the saddle, remove the saddle from the base.

The 727 should be similar.

 

[Maine]

Not sure what you define "manageable" to be, but the 30 can be broken down by taking the head off it's mount, remove the head mount from the column, remove the column from the base, remove the table from the saddle, remove the saddle from the base.

The 727 should be similar.

All I can say about "removing the table" is that is a complicated mess.

Personally, if you are going to remove something, lower the head all the way down until you can hold it against something, move the back of the machine until you can see the column hollow from underneath the base, REMOVE the airspring screw from the base and be careful. Remove the column by twisting the 4 Allan bolts off at the base of the column. There you go, 2 heavy pieces that 2 people can manage easily.